chain wear

DLB

Senior Member
i've just bought a chain wear indicator from CRC and i'm unsure about how to use it. D'oh! I've tried to put the two ends of the tool inside the links of the chain and it does slip through the gaps (using both the 0.75 and the 1 sides). Does this mean the chain is worn??
 
I've just Googled 'chain wear indicator' to see if I could find a picture of how to use one and this was the first thing I found
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycle_Repair/Chain_wear_indicator
A chain wear indicator tells you if the chain has stretched. You shove it in one link and see if it will fit in another. If it fits the chain has stretched and needs to be replaced; otherwise the chain is ok.
It doesn't do anything you couldn't do with a ruler, but it is idiot proof (no offense, I have one). After the tires and break pads (which wear out by design), and brake and shifting cables, the part of a bike that needs the most attention is the chain. Because of that and because a chain wear indicator is so easy to use, it should be in the intermediate tool kit, not the advanced tool kit.
If you ride with a stretched chain you will prematurely wear out your chainrings and cassette (which cost a lot more than a chain). If you let it really go, it can slip. This will of course happen when you are stomping on the pedals or hitting a bump or both.
Note that a chain may need replacement when there is as little as 0.75% stretch. Most chains have a least 100 links, so it is easy to see that, there is almost one new link increase in chain length for this amount of stretch. But your bike will ride just about like a new one with a new chain.
No (major :biggrin:) offence meant, but whoever wiki'd this thinks it's 'idiot proof' !

(mind you, he's probably American because he spells 'tyre' as 'tire' and 'stamp' as 'stomp', but he also talks about 'break pads' and immediately afterwards about 'brake cables', and thinks chains stretch rather than wear...)
 

gwhite

Über Member
Yes, it does mean the chain is worn and should be replaced. When using the indicator the chain should be tensioned to get an accurate reading. Have a look at the teeth on your chain-rings and those on the rear sprockets also. If these are worn and have taken on a "shark's tooth" shape then you will have to replace these also.
 
OP
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DLB

Senior Member
ok so i need a new chain. Any ideas which one i should get? I have a shimano 8 speed rear cassette already and (as discussed yesterday on this forum) i've just ordered a new cassette for another wheel to use on my turbo but i think i'll put this cassette on my normal wheel.

Also do i need a special tool to replace the chain? I've never replaced one before.

your help is much appreciated.

DLB
 
Agreed.
SRAM with powerlink (PC48 or PC58 are fine), or KMC with missing link (X8 etc).
SRAM or KMC runs fine on Shimano cassette.
Wouldn't bother with a Shimano chain with the joining pin, complete @rse to fit, need another pin if you want to take the chain off to clean it or do any maintenance on the bike.
You'll need the chain tool (aka chain breaker, chain pin remover, etc) to shorten the new chain to the length you need.
This explains : http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=25

I assume you have cassette remover tool & chain whip to fit your new cassette ?
(if you were just fitting the new cassette onto your other wheel, you'd just need the cassette remover to tighten it on, but since you're going to take the old cassette off your road wheel and transfer to the turbo wheel, you'll need the chain whip as well as the remover tool to get it off)
S'all easy enough, once you've done it once or been shown
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=48
 
OP
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DLB

Senior Member
i've ordered a new chain from wiggle as i was keen to get delivery tomorrow and change it then before a long ride on Sunday. I ordered a chainlink removal tool and this chain...

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDeta...D=5360022447&n=Shimano HG40 6/7/8 Speed Chain

i guess i'll get a SRAM chain next time i need to change the chain (if the one I ordered is ok??)

I've ordered a new cassette and have a chain whip and the removal tool to change the cassette.

Thanks for the help!!
 
OP
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DLB

Senior Member
Thanks!
 
DLB said:
i was keen to get delivery tomorrow and change it then before a long ride on Sunday
I recommend a short trial run after you've done it all - you don't want to be 50 miles from home and have the chain fall apart on you :biggrin:

(i.e. "do as I say not as I do", says the man who fitted 9sp shifters, new chain, new cassette, new cables, new bartape, stripped the brakes and fitted new pads to the Winter bike last weekend. I finished at 10:30 on Saturday night then went and did 62 miles at 08:30 on Sunday - but I was in a group of 4 and had mobile phone to whistle-up wifey to rescue me if necessary...:biggrin:)
 
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