Chainsaw

[Sterlo]

Hi all, hope you can help me re a potential purchase of a new chainsaw. I bought a cheap one a couple of years ago to clear some conifers. It's an electric one (don't want the hassle of petrol) and it's done okay bit I have another load of conifers to clear and this one is starting to struggle. I did replace the chain which improved it for a while but it's now struggling again. I've looked at the spec, it's a 1600W, 12m/s speed, 40cm, and I've seen bigger version, 2400W, 15m/s, 40cm.
My question is, will it having more speed and power make it cut any better or is that down to the quality of the chain?
Appreciate your comments, I have no issue buying it but don't want to waste money if it's not going to make much difference.

 

[Chromatic]

Have you sharpened the replacement chain at all? Try that first if not.

 

[GM]

I think a good quality chain is all you need. Like you I bought a cheapish one from Screwfix to cut out some tree roots, but hit a few stones and ruined the blade, got a new chain and it worked brilliantly.

 

[OldShep]

Do you sharpen?
i sharpen my petrol on every fill up cuts like a hot knife through butter. Also make sure the guide bar doesn’t become badly burred. Turn the bar and file off the burrs.

 

[fossyant]

I ruined a blade on mine chopping out laurels from the ground - but I expected that. New chain was all that was needed.

Can I ask what you use to sharpen - I could do with doing my smaller 'extendable' chain saw - that's great for branches.

 

[Sterlo]

To be honest, I've never sharpened a chain, wouldn't know where to start. When I had the issue before it was a couple of years old with limited use so just went and bought a new chain (I'm a bit lazy like that). I suppose it might pay to sharpen it.

 

[Electric_Andy]

Same as you, I bought an electric one for £65 I think. Wonderful when sharp, but cheap tools dull very quickly. I bought a new chain for £12, but as others have said it might be more economical to buy a blade sharpener rather than keep buying new chains. I hit a nail with mine and after that I doubt it would cut through whipped cream. I've gone with a new blade for now but will probably get a sharpening tool next time. I'm not sure a more powerful one would be any better, if it's still a cheap blade then it will dull more quickly. The only benefit of a more powerful tool IMLE is they tend to get stuck less often in tight spots as there's more torque to keep the blade moving. But in hindsight I'd have spent more on a good quality chain and a sharpening tool, as the saw itself is quite adequate

 

[fossyant]

PS - both mine are Aldi ones with Oregon chains. Been very impressed with them.

 

[Darius_Jedburgh]

Sharpen the blade, make sure the oil lubrication doesn't run dry - you have topped that up haven't you? and check the tension on the bar. All basic operating checks. If you've run out of oil you could have blued the teeth in which case no amount of sharpening will work.

 

[Ridgeway]

Slow down......

Have you put oil in it ????

Chain saws go through an alarming amount of oil, i can burn through a whole reservoir of oil easily in a single days work in the forest.

But also: strip the bar and chain off, clean them, check for debris behind the snatch brake (the spike at the front on top of the chain). Check the filter on the oil reservoir (it's usually just a piece of sponge) then reassemble, set the chain tension and top up the oil. That's the basics anyone should do before going near a chainsaw to be honest.

Chain sharpening is quite easy to do but you do need a special tool unless you really good with a triangular file

 

[Sterlo]

Slow down......

Have you put oil in it ????

Chain saws go through an alarming amount of oil, i can burn through a whole reservoir of oil easily in a single days work in the forest.

But also: strip the bar and chain off, clean them, check for debris behind the snatch brake (the spike at the front on top of the chain). Check the filter on the oil reservoir (it's usually just a piece of sponge) then reassemble, set the chain tension and top up the oil. That's the basics anyone should do before going near a chainsaw to be honest.

Chain sharpening is quite easy to do but you do need a special tool unless you really good with a triangular file

Yes, do all of that (except the sharpening bit of course. With all of the oil mine goes through, I did wonder if it had a leak but I suppose it will use more if it's struggling to cut properly.

 

[Ridgeway]

Don't forget that conifers are very sappy so the chain and bar tend to grip the trunk you are cutting even if they are usually quite small.

Good luck and happy cutting

My turn to cut some wood is in 2wks, need to cut 10 cubic meters so it will be a busy day.

 

[Sterlo]

Thanks all

 

[OldShep]

I ruined a blade on mine chopping out laurels from the ground - but I expected that. New chain was all that was needed.

Can I ask what you use to sharpen - I could do with doing my smaller 'extendable' chain saw - that's great for branches.

I use a Dremmel with appropriate sized sharpening stone. Takes no time at all two passes ( push and pull) is more than enough to brighten the cutter again.
Maybe should add I’ve been sharpening for 40 years and for many years used various devices which help hold the right angle. I trust my eye now.

 

[PaulSB]

I think you are partly asking for advice on buying a new saw. I happily recommend the Stihl battery powered range. I've had one for three years.

I've never used it to fell anything large but have taken down small trees. It is a tool which is intended for garden work and logging up. It will happily get through a 10-12" diameter trunk. You get around 25-30 minutes run time per charge. Doesn't sound much but I find it gives me around three hours working time - the saw isn't constantly running, there's stacking, clearing, etc. all happening at the same time.

I usually do a morning's work, stop for lunch, charge the battery and then start again for an afternoon.