Chainset change

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T4tomo

Guru
If its the design that just has a flat thread with no lip or collar on the NDS then, yes you should end up with a couple of mm of thread showing, even when tight. Pop some grease on the exposed thread to keep it protected from the elements.
 
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notmyrealnamebutclose

notmyrealnamebutclose

Senior Member
If its the design that just has a flat thread with no lip or collar on the NDS then, yes you should end up with a couple of mm of thread showing, even when tight. Pop some grease on the exposed thread to keep it protected from the elements.
I've took the thread lock off it when I took it off to check something. I don't have any tl paste so was
thinking of using some silicon sealant on the thread instead or I've some plumbing ptf tape
 
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notmyrealnamebutclose

notmyrealnamebutclose

Senior Member
Okay thanks guys. Haven't had much spare time to finish (ty,vicks!) project off yet just have the chain on the big
ring atm, fd will take some sorting and It might need a new cable asp. And am quite happy that the chain is long enough, rd jockey wheel roughly at 5 o'clock so that's a win to me! Tho the tiny 30t IR might prove to be a pita!
Although I've not had much time to fully experience and test her out yet, just a few quick 1ml trips to the gym
and back. I'm surprised how just 4 extra teeth can make so much difference to the gearing, bike feels and rides
so much different, very smooth and positive with new bb too. Don't think I'll be anywhere close to spinning out
on this set up, hell, might not even see the 12t in action ever again lol :ohmy:
 
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notmyrealnamebutclose

notmyrealnamebutclose

Senior Member
Only the H screw on the fd seems to be doing anything, raising - lowering, turning the L screws isn't doing muchmean moving the cage laterally. Didn't have enough light to try to sort it today. Maybe somethings broke but am sure It worked when it was a triple. It does change the rings up and down but needs tuning.
 
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