OP
OP
woodbutcher
Veteran
- Location
- S W France
Refinishing ist verboten, it was a 1980's Moser with a smashing pearl-white paint job
classic dropouts
- Thread starter woodbutcher
- Start date
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OP
OP
woodbutcher
Veteran
- Location
- S W France
Yep, its not rocket science but then l suppose rocket science is all about asking questions about rockets .
winjim
Smash the cistern
Some frames are 132.5mm to fit both road and MTB hubs. I don't think the 1.25mm bend this requires either side is considered too much of a problem.
rogerzilla
Legendary Member
I just set them by hand. It doesn't take superhuman strength. Always check the rear triangle with a thin cotton thread around the head tube and dropouts afterwards (measure the distance between the thread and seat tube - it should be the same) to ensure both sides have pulled (or pushed - I more often squeeze them in for SA hubs or fixed/SS*) evenly. If they haven't pulled evenly, usually because the driveside has clearance dimples in it making it bend more easily, you need to pull or push the sides individually while holding the main triangle steady.
Then check the dropout spacing all the way along from front to back to ensure they are still tolerably parallel. Hub gears may not shift properly if there is any bending force on the axle, and it increases the risk of axle breakage on any hub. if your dropouts are measurably out of parallel you are best getting a shop to reset them with the proper tool. I have used a big adjustable spanner, but only on cheap frames where the dropouts weren't even parallel to start with. There is a risk of breakage.
*if you're converting to singlespeed, you may find that removing spacers from a 6, 7 or 8-speed hub and respacing to 120mm will give you a virtually dishless wheel, which is always worth having.
Then check the dropout spacing all the way along from front to back to ensure they are still tolerably parallel. Hub gears may not shift properly if there is any bending force on the axle, and it increases the risk of axle breakage on any hub. if your dropouts are measurably out of parallel you are best getting a shop to reset them with the proper tool. I have used a big adjustable spanner, but only on cheap frames where the dropouts weren't even parallel to start with. There is a risk of breakage.
*if you're converting to singlespeed, you may find that removing spacers from a 6, 7 or 8-speed hub and respacing to 120mm will give you a virtually dishless wheel, which is always worth having.
