cleaning and maintenance

[Profpointy]

It cracks me up when people say things like "if it's good enough for my car engine it's good enough for my chain". Not the same job, so why would you assume that it's suitable.

Shower Gel cleans my skin great, so should I use it to do my teeth too?

Your logic is right, and the similar one I use is Vaseline is an OK substitute for Coppaslip, but I'd not use the latter to treat a sore arse !

That said, I do rather believe that (almost) any old oil is going to be perfectly fine for a bike chain. And pretty much any old grease will do where grease is called for on a bike.

 

[craig kennedy]

I would assume a de-greaser is a de-greaser? Why would I assume its not suitable? There are so many options available, the assumption that you HAVE to buy this specific thing is why the specific thing they talk about costs 5 times not than a similar product for a car. I am sure with a little investigation we would find several car products that are more than suitable for use on a bicycle and cost a fraction of the price.

Its no dif to me assuming I needed special drinks and foods to cycle when in fact it turns out thats a load of crap as well!

 

[Profpointy]

I would assume a de-greaser is a de-greaser? Why would I assume its not suitable? There are so many options available, the assumption that you HAVE to buy this specific thing is why the specific thing they talk about costs 5 times not than a similar product for a car. I am sure with a little investigation we would find several car products that are more than suitable for use on a bicycle and cost a fraction of the price.

Its no dif to me assuming I needed special drinks and foods to cycle when in fact it turns out thats a load of crap as well!

I support the sentiment, and true as a general rule, but I doubt if de-greaser of any description is really a sensible product to use on a bike (other than perhaps for a total strip down). And there are a lot of quite different products of this nature - eg the type of thing to clean engine parts before refurbishment, which is different from something akin to washing up liquid again different from something like "trike" (trichloroethane)

You do need to keep the wheel rims somewhat clean else brakes won't work - I use meths and always have done - dunno if this is "right" but it does work.

 

[Citius]

I'm pretty sure it doesn't contain oil as such, but it is certainly a slippery substance that you probably won't be wanting on the braking surface of your wheels!

Why would you apply neat washing up liquid to your braking surfaces and then not wash it off? Come on fella, be sensible...

 

[Profpointy]

Why would you apply neat washing up liquid to your braking surfaces and then not wash it off? Come on fella, be sensible...

well, you go out in the rain, and the braking action and rainwater gets the rims lovely and clean

......... don't try this at home folks :=)

 

[Profpointy]

[QUOTE 3817910, member: 9609"]I would worry that something like meths would perish the rubber of tyre, I have no idea if it does, but I have in the past damaged stuff like rubber oil seals by getting petrol on them and am now always a little weary of petro-chemicals - degreasers - thinners etc coming near any surface that is not bare metal.

I do agree with you about keeping degreasers away from bike frames, the way I look at it, greasy oily stuff on the frame will help protect the frame - in fact in the winter months I paint chainsaw oil onto the lower parts of the frame to help keep the salty water off - it can look a mess but is surprisingly effective.[/QUOTE]

meths'll be fine on rubber, no worries. It's only alcohol after all and it totally evaporates anyway.

 

[mrbikerboy73]

Why would you apply neat washing up liquid to your braking surfaces and then not wash it off? Come on fella, be sensible...

I never said I would did I? Nor did I say it contains oil either. Feel free to apply some to yours though....

 

[jonny jeez]

ok so newbie still here.

I am cleaning my bike tomorow, its grubby. Also the brakes require significant pull to stop, I mean when I pull the brakes I nearly have to pull them fully on to brake.

Questions:

1. Cleaning with washing up liquid ok?
2. presume just wash it thoroughly top to bottom, remove wheels etc clean it all.
3. will standard car degreaser be ok on all chain related stuff?
4. WD40 or is a proper bike oil needed (I have a small bike oil)
5. Dry with hairdryer? (how do I make sure its totaly dry to avoid rust)

I know it seems stupid to ask these, but as a kid I had the same bike from age 10 to age 17, and not one single time did I either oil or clean the bike, granted I had only rear brakes at one point, having lost the front ones, the frame bent after a crash so was no longer able to pedal while turning (over handlebars) and eventually it got stuck in 3rd gear, unable to move.

Whilst not as fastidious as some on here, I am a bit of a clean freak, I just ride better if my bike runs well.

I take the wheels aand Chain off...it's just easier in the long run.

I use lots of washing up liquid (in 5 years my bike hasn't melted yet), wash from the top to the bottom, then do the same with wheels, I focus on the rims which take major effort to strip off the gunk left from braking.

I clean in between spokes and use the same songs to clean the hubs.

Soak it all off with clean water towel dry the frame.

Wipe the chain progressively with cleaner and cleaner cloths, run the chain through the cloth whilst gripping the cloth/chain. I don't use degreaser on the chain...ever.

I use degreaser on the cassette (gt 85) and then wipe that down and leave for half and hour to allow it to dry off (degreaser to evaporate ).

Trim the brakes,(loosen cable, pull calipers together, tighten cable) trim the indexing if it needs it. Replace everything, lube the chain and whip it down once more.

For special stuff I may use if on white bar tape (works really well) and will squirt gt85 in the inaccessible parts like behind the front mech bracket, and within the rear mech figure of 8, all when the wheels are off.

J

 

[LocalLad]

Sounds like a lot of work!

I'm feeling smug that I just rubbed it over with car dashboard wipes...

 

[Sim2003]

I like to give mine a good clean every 100-150 miles or if I have been in the rain all week. I give the tyres them selves a wipe down everyday however. This has proven to be great as I have found shards of glass in my tires on several occasions.

My cleaning goes as follows :

I use a cheap car shampoo and hot water ofc. Using the cloth I had for wiping I would give the frame and spokes a good wipe down and get rid of any excessive muck.

I then use a new wet cloth and run the chain through until the cloth starts to get relatively clean. Using the same cloth I also run the little wheels of the derailleur through clearing the grit and gunk off them . I have found hair round these a few times.

If I can see grit etc on the chain still I will use a cheapo toothbrush 18p for 2 jobby and give the chain a scrub with it where needed. Once the chain is sorted I give all the moving parts a spray with wd-40 or GT 85 ( whatever comes out of the box first). I keep the dirty cloth for wiping the tyres down until my next cleaning session.

I then pop the wheels off and remove My brake pads (disc brakes) I simply use some kitchen roll (regine blitz) and wipe down the pads and the discs until the tissue comes clean. This has always stopped any squeaking for me and most of the time If some squeaking does occur I just use the kitchen roll on the discs. While the wheels are off I give them a good check and fill any of the horrid glass holes with UHU (if there is a better product please share , I hear wetsuit stuff is suppose to be good).

With the wheels still off I give the whole bike a going over with a microfibre cloth and for where my hands sit on the bars I give them a squirt of wd-40 and wipe it down with the cloth to get rid of the horrid dirt and crap left on the bars due to dirty work hands.

Pop a blob of grease if needed onto the springs of the derailleurs wack the wheels back on then use some 3 in 1 spray on the chain and cranks.

I even go the extent of using black nail varnish to paint on any areas that have been sratched due to locking up etc as this was advised via the Trek website to help prevent rusting.

Boom Jobs a Goodun. Sounds like a long task but It usually takes no more than an hour.

 

[mustang1]

ok so newbie still here.

I am cleaning my bike tomorow, its grubby. Also the brakes require significant pull to stop, I mean when I pull the brakes I nearly have to pull them fully on to brake.

Questions:

1. Cleaning with washing up liquid ok? No problemo.
2. presume just wash it thoroughly top to bottom, remove wheels etc clean it all. Don't spray water in hubs or bottom bracket. Everything else is OK.
3. will standard car degreaser be ok on all chain related stuff? Nah, use bike lube. Next you shouild ask wet or dry. We will wait for you.
4. WD40 or is a proper bike oil needed (I have a small bike oil) whut? Bike oil.
5. Dry with hairdryer? (how do I make sure its totaly dry to avoid rust) that's a good idea. I never tried that before. I probably will never try this. Not because its not a good idea, but because I can't be bothered.

I know it seems stupid to ask these, but as a kid I had the same bike from age 10 to age 17, and not one single time did I either oil or clean the bike, granted I had only rear brakes at one point, having lost the front ones, the frame bent after a crash so was no longer able to pedal while turning (over handlebars) and eventually it got stuck in 3rd gear, unable to move.

 

[bpsmith]

[QUOTE 3817910, member: 9609"]I would worry that something like meths would perish the rubber of tyre, I have no idea if it does, but I have in the past damaged stuff like rubber oil seals by getting petrol on them and am now always a little weary of petro-chemicals - degreasers - thinners etc coming near any surface that is not bare metal.

I do agree with you about keeping degreasers away from bike frames, the way I look at it, greasy oily stuff on the frame will help protect the frame - in fact in the winter months I paint chainsaw oil onto the lower parts of the frame to help keep the salty water off - it can look a mess but is surprisingly effective.[/QUOTE]
So is ACF50, but that's totally invisible!

 

[bpsmith]

Some good regimes on here. My routine is different but similar to the longer ones above. Any bore you with mine, just use different products and tools.

Both of my bikes still look brand new. One is from last August and the other from the August before. Equal split on mileage, so obviously I favour one over the other.

It really does pay to get them properly cleaned and lubed. Stuff lasts longer if not neglected. How often is down to your mileage, weather conditions and your level of OCD.

 

[jonny jeez]

Sounds like a lot of work!

I'm feeling smug that I just rubbed it over with car dashboard wipes...

Ah but our resident 10th Dan bike cleaner, @ianrauk once said, you can wash your bike,

...or you can clean your bike.

 

[jonny jeez]

Both of my bikes still look brand new. One is from last August

Yup, mine too. People that aren't familiar with the components (like the fact that she is a 9 speed) always assume that she is brand new and whilst one pair of her wheels (she likes to dress up at weekends) are new, the rest of the bike is now about 6 years old and has covered between 6,000 and 3,000 miles a year...in all weathers.

Good bikes are like good shoes, if you buy quality and take good care of them, they will last forever

couldn't resist a snap of her in her Sunday best.