Clicking noise - help

[SquareDaff]

KMC X10 is the chain of choice for loads of us on here. I won't use Shimano chains anymore and both my bikes use X10 chains. If the chain is ok you should just need a missing link to fettle it.

For the record, if you ever split a 10 speed chain with a chain splitter, NEVER re-connect it with the same pin. ALWAYS use a missing link, or a specific replacement pin, never the original pin

That'll do for me then. Will get a new chain on order anyway. Never had to use a chain splitter before. Can use the old one as practice (and spares?) and eliminate a missing skill from my home repairs ability. Any tips? Obviously will practice on the chain I'm taking off!

 

[smokeysmoo]

If the old chain is an X10 as you say you won't even need a splitter as they join with a missing link like this, http://www.cyclesportsuk.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=4460
A splitter is a very handy thing to have though, (and to know how to use). An old chain is ideal to practice on. You can even practice putting the pins back in, but as I say don't use a chain that has been re-joined with the old pin.

 

[SquareDaff]

It's definately an X10 on there. Handy to know I don't need a splitter. Have ordered a new chain so will hopefully be here for the weekend so I can be mobile again for Monday. Not going to risk damaging the bike as I seem to have got off lightly.

Oddly enough I was only thinking last week about asking people on here for tips on chain splitting. Have never had to do this in the past but as you say, a handy skill to have, and I now have an old chain to practice on.

Any tips on the splitting tool?

 

[smokeysmoo]

I currently have one of these, http://www.fredbakercycles.co.uk/179/FAT-SPANNER-Pro-chain-tool.html and I don't expect to have to have to replace it for years as it's really well made.
Before this I had the most basic of cheap ass splitters, but it lasted years and fettled loads of links before it gave up the ghost.
I also carry a multi tool with a splitter built in, it's only for emergencies but it works just fine. I also carry a spare missing link as well

 

[smokeysmoo]

PS: when it comes to learning new maintenance skills remember YouTube is your friend . There's a lot of tosh on there, but there are also some very good tuition vids. There's a two part one about wrapping bar tape that I still refer to sometimes

 

[HLaB]

It's definately an X10 on there. Handy to know I don't need a splitter. Have ordered a new chain so will hopefully be here for the weekend so I can be mobile again for Monday. Not going to risk damaging the bike as I seem to have got off lightly.

You'll still need a splitter (chain tool) to shorten the new chain to the correct length but once thats done you are tool free afterwards, rejoining/resplitting.

 

[bigtoe]

tundragumski got it i recon pedal pedal pedal.

 

[SquareDaff]

Thanks for all the help/advice. Just added a chain splitter to the new chain order. Hopefully here tomorrow so I can be mobile again for the weekend

 

[SquareDaff]

Chain and splitter here. Time to add a new skill to the armoury!!

 

[Herzog]

Chain and splitter here. Time to add a new skill to the armoury!!

Excellent, it's a nice feeling knowing you can repair your own bike. And it's also good for the wallet (once you've bought the tools of course...).

 

[SquareDaff]

It's not so much the money...I enjoy finding out how/why things work the way they do and how to maintain them.

 

[lejogger]

Had this issue with my Boardman CX two weeks ago. Unfortunately got the the point where the chain snapped.

Got a new X10 chain like you, and it was pretty easy to fit. I'd use the power links that come with the chain as I also got some spares - tried them first (as I didn't realise one would be supplied) and they were ridiculously stiff to close to the point where I gave up. After speaking to some lads at the club they said you need to get on and pedal, really jamming the chain hard, but I'm a bit nervous of doing that when the link is just balanced on itself.
Anyway, worth having some spares though so you can make any running repairs on the road if necessary. I had to admit defeat and phone my dad when it went
I've got a chain breaker on my multitool which goes with me, so I'm happy that now I have spare links I'm covered for most things when out and about.

Another tip was that while replacing the chain I also took the opportunity to take off the cassette, strip it down and thoroughly clean it (and the rest of the drive train). I bought a dead cheap removal spanner and chain whip from wiggle as it's something I'll want to do myself again in the future. Also got a chain wear measurer as if there's too much stretch the cassette won't take the new chain and will need to be replaced. Might be a handy thing to do if you want to find out more about maintaining your bike and you don't do this already. I was certainly pleased to be able to do it myself.

 

[HLaB]

After speaking to some lads at the club they said you need to get on and pedal, really jamming the chain hard, but I'm a bit nervous of doing that when the link is just balanced on itself.

You don't need to do that, you just need to slide the two plates together unloaded (chain not on the cranks) and then pull the the chain either side.

 

[ianrauk]

You don't need to do that, you just need to slide the two plates together unloaded (chain not on the cranks) and then pull the the chain either side.

Agreed, the natural action of the chain going round the cassette and jockey wheels will lock it in.

 

[lejogger]

You don't need to do that, you just need to slide the two plates together unloaded (chain not on the cranks) and then pull the the chain either side.

That's what i tried... it was easy with the link that came with the chain - the others (which appeared identical) just would not close no matter how hard I pulled, or pulled while squeezing the sides together. Very frustrating.