raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
Trying to sell you another bike 'for winter' would be my guess.
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cougie uk
Guru
I've seen the lovely finish on a chainset and rear mech corrode in winter. I suspect it was a salty ride and the bike wasn't cleaned that week.
Most of us started on just the one best bike but then that gets downgraded to winter rides so a new bike can appear.
Entirely up to you but in winter I go with cheaper groupset and fatter tyres and proper full mudguards and lights and reflectives.
You're far more likely to have an off in the dark and damp slippery winter so I'd rather the winter bike takes the hit rather than my CF best bike.
It's definitely best to have at least the two bikes... 😉
Most of us started on just the one best bike but then that gets downgraded to winter rides so a new bike can appear.
Entirely up to you but in winter I go with cheaper groupset and fatter tyres and proper full mudguards and lights and reflectives.
You're far more likely to have an off in the dark and damp slippery winter so I'd rather the winter bike takes the hit rather than my CF best bike.
It's definitely best to have at least the two bikes... 😉
Your Trek is a very nice bike and more than capable for a 5 mile commute, but it will pick up the grime and wear out bits quicker.
It could be more cost effective to pick up a second bike for less than £300 and keep your best bike for those all day rides. With a dedicated commute bike, you can load it with mudguards, heavier tyres, luggage racks etc and you can be less strict in the cleaning routine. And at the weekend, the best bike is sparkling clean and ready to go.
Does worry me that you are taking the bike into the shop for a flat tyre. You should be self sufficient with fixing punctures.
Enjoy your commutes, it's a great way of keeping fit.
It could be more cost effective to pick up a second bike for less than £300 and keep your best bike for those all day rides. With a dedicated commute bike, you can load it with mudguards, heavier tyres, luggage racks etc and you can be less strict in the cleaning routine. And at the weekend, the best bike is sparkling clean and ready to go.
Does worry me that you are taking the bike into the shop for a flat tyre. You should be self sufficient with fixing punctures.
Enjoy your commutes, it's a great way of keeping fit.
I've been commuting on my 10 year old Madone on 'dry' days and my hybrid on wet days.
Its my first autumn commuting on the bike, so far enjoying it. One thing that's making a big difference between my the hybrid and road bike is mudguards.
I put on new 105 calipers last week, only done 3 'dry' rides and they are filthy. Regularly cleaning is 100% needed.
Its my first autumn commuting on the bike, so far enjoying it. One thing that's making a big difference between my the hybrid and road bike is mudguards.
I put on new 105 calipers last week, only done 3 'dry' rides and they are filthy. Regularly cleaning is 100% needed.
Obviously the n+1 bike equation is always proven, but for years I couldnt afford or had space for more than one. So always cleaned and looked after it well.
Salt is the main problem for alloy components but steel corrosion is always sad to see.
Even CF bikes have low grade components in some cases.
Good and regular cleaning and maintenance is the key.
Cheaper than two bikes.
Would suggest studded tyres for icy days though.
Salt is the main problem for alloy components but steel corrosion is always sad to see.
Even CF bikes have low grade components in some cases.
Good and regular cleaning and maintenance is the key.
Cheaper than two bikes.
Would suggest studded tyres for icy days though.
Drago
Legendary Member
- Location
- Suburban Poshshire
Cleaned and lubed ,ine weekly and suffered no seized adjusters, no rusting or corroding stone chips, no cosmetic maladies, no ill effects at all.
An early death is not a foregone conclusion - its easily avoided by a modicum of care, effort, and common sense.
I like Skol
A Minging Manc...
- Location
- Sunny Ashton-under-Lyne
Different POV here.
I commute all year round in all weathers on a nice bike (2018 Kona Wheelhouse) and never clean it. In fact, apart from a quick wash in the first couple of weeks to remove all the dirty finger prints and marks from commissioning the bike it hasn't been cleaned since and has now covered 6000 miles. Just proper maintenance, and mudgaurds/panniers.
There doesn't seem to be any way to fix mudgaurds and panniers to your Trek so maybe a more suitable bike would be better?
I commute all year round in all weathers on a nice bike (2018 Kona Wheelhouse) and never clean it. In fact, apart from a quick wash in the first couple of weeks to remove all the dirty finger prints and marks from commissioning the bike it hasn't been cleaned since and has now covered 6000 miles. Just proper maintenance, and mudgaurds/panniers.
There doesn't seem to be any way to fix mudgaurds and panniers to your Trek so maybe a more suitable bike would be better?
As what others have said, a good, regular cleaning regime will see you and your bike through the winter.
After every rainy ride I give the bike a quick wipe down and run the chain through the rag. I then give the bike a through clean and component relube at the weekend.
After every rainy ride I give the bike a quick wipe down and run the chain through the rag. I then give the bike a through clean and component relube at the weekend.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Just look after it. It's only 105 so isn't going to bankrupt you on replacement parts. Make sure the drive chain is free of crud and keep it lubed. You may want to wash it a bit more, particularly after wet mucky rides. You may want to fit guards (if they will fit) as this saves a wet ar$e.
What is the tyre and mudguard clearance like? Many road riders prefer a wider tyre for dark winter commutes to provide more protection in case they hit a pothole.
A winter road bike should have full length bolt on mudguard capability and clearance for 28mm tyres . Whether you fit them is then your choice. This type of spec should be the default type of road bike for most use except competition.
You may be able to wax your frame for dirt shedding protection. Top end components generally wear at the same rate as midrange ones and offer few advantages to the commuter. Riders with a competition bike and a winter trainer/commuter often put worn out race components on the trainer, or fit 105 grade or similar.
A winter road bike should have full length bolt on mudguard capability and clearance for 28mm tyres . Whether you fit them is then your choice. This type of spec should be the default type of road bike for most use except competition.
You may be able to wax your frame for dirt shedding protection. Top end components generally wear at the same rate as midrange ones and offer few advantages to the commuter. Riders with a competition bike and a winter trainer/commuter often put worn out race components on the trainer, or fit 105 grade or similar.
I have just been doing exactly that with my commuter.
I was getting a bit sick of the cost of Ultegra components, so am in the process of changing them to 105.
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
Yep 105 seems to me to be the balance between quality, longevity and cost but then I've relied on 105 since the late 80's.
On another note I wonder if excessive cleaning/degreasing is the cause of degradation during winter, I'd sooner oil/wax a bike in late summer and leave that protective coating intact through winter. OK things like chains need lubing and brake tracks and pads need to be kept clean but other than that a quick 'hose down' to get massive crud off i don't think cleaning 'products' help any, far better a wipe down with an oily rag.
I'm not one for using cleaning products. As long as you keep on top of it, a rag to wipe down the bike and components is all that's really needed.
