Cone
- Thread starter Glasgow44
- Start date
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Cycleops
Legendary Member
- Location
- Accra, Ghana
I think the OP may be confusing the cone on the other end of the QR skewer with the cones or cone on the axle.
Cone spanners are made from pressed steel and are very thin, to allow them to engage with the cone and pass under the locknut. My spanners are marked 13, 14 at one end and 15, 16 at the other. I expect most spanners are like this. The cone spanner does not have to be strong, as the locknut is the one that is tightened the most.
Thanks
I usually tighten it by hand - should I be using a tool of some kind? That's the crux of the matter!
Cycleops
Legendary Member
- Location
- Accra, Ghana
Any good bike shop or you can run without them if needs be.
Cycleops
Legendary Member
- Location
- Accra, Ghana
By hand, and not too tight.
Cycleops
Legendary Member
- Location
- Accra, Ghana
You do seem to be having a lot of trouble with that Bianchi 
vickster
Legendary Member
Bike shop...or a new skewer
vickster
Legendary Member
No. You need to be able to close the QR skewer (oh and get it open again) so unless you're Superman or the Incredible Hulk, just do by hand!
Notes on cup and cone bearings.
Cones can get pitted and spin rough. Look for a smooth worn track but not too deeply worn.
Ball bearings can get squished out of round. On cheap hubs I reuse balls bit on precision hubs, fit new ones of grade 25.
QR skewers compress the opposing cones so leave a tiny amount of play and check for no play when fitted to the frame. QR is fitted and adjusted by hand, no tools and should leave a red mark in your palm as it closes completely. A tight skewer that is not completely closed is not right.
Nut fittings stretch the axle so set cones correctly before fitting wheel to frame.
My bodge for fine tuning is to hold one cone and adjust the opposite locknut.
Cones can get pitted and spin rough. Look for a smooth worn track but not too deeply worn.
Ball bearings can get squished out of round. On cheap hubs I reuse balls bit on precision hubs, fit new ones of grade 25.
QR skewers compress the opposing cones so leave a tiny amount of play and check for no play when fitted to the frame. QR is fitted and adjusted by hand, no tools and should leave a red mark in your palm as it closes completely. A tight skewer that is not completely closed is not right.
Nut fittings stretch the axle so set cones correctly before fitting wheel to frame.
My bodge for fine tuning is to hold one cone and adjust the opposite locknut.
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An ebay search for cycle skewer springs would bring up lots of suppliers and very low prices. Remember to put the small end of the spring inboard.
T4tomo
Legendary Member
Also you shouldn't be grinding the ridges of the QR nut against the frame drop out when tightening the nut. You tighten the nut with the QR skewer in the open position, test by closing it, if its not tighten enough, open it again and adjust the nut, then close it again. trial and error until it makes decent print in your palm/ thumb pad as you close the skewer. The ridgy bit on the nut should be steel, so it bites into the softer aluminium drop out (frame end). cheap skewers are sometimes alu in this bit, which is rubbish and can lead to issue with them slipping (More an issue on disc brakes where more forces are put on the axle).
Don't go damaging that beautiful Bianchi, they are lovely bikes.
Don't go damaging that beautiful Bianchi, they are lovely bikes.
