Bike fitting is an art form. You can't just look at someone on a bike for a few seconds & say if the fit is right or not. I'd not give someone the time of day regardless of how good they report to be when it comes to a bike fit until they've watched me ride or actually listened to my comments.
The first thing that should be done when fitting bike it sit down with the rider & discuss their needs. From there you'll have a rough idea of the position on the bike they should have & set the bike up. At that point you get them on the bike on a turbo trainer & rollers. The fitter can adjust the fit to counter problems that they can
see in your motion &
how you feel about the bike. You need to ride in all the typical positions you will use on the bike. This means on the drops, hoods & tops, also different positions on them if you're likely to use them.
Listening to the rider & watching them ride is important. When getting fitted I need to have my riding position evaluate with my hands wrapped around the bars & stem with my forearms parallel with the ground & my hands right on the shoulders of the bars, however there's no point in having a fitting which looks at me with my hands on the flat of the tops, I simply don't use the tops of the bars like that. Also I need my hoods positioned so that my wrist angle is greater than 180 degrees, that means the hand position suggested
bike dynamics would simply leaded me to have numb hands within 15 miles of starting a ride, anyone fitting me on a bike like that would find that I'd be constantly moving my hands around the hoods searching for a comfortable position.
Until you're getting to the point where you're willing to train into a riding position (top-level TT bike fitting for instance where the rider rides in a wind tunnel) then one of the most important factors is how the rider feels on the bike. If you don't feel good on the bike you'll produce less power & get tired more quickly.