Correct Crank Extractor for Specialities TA Vega cranks?

[velovoice]

Apparently, it's something quite specific.

(My OH is a Cytech mechanic and could tell you what extractors he has and why they don't work but I'm posting, not him, as it's my bike and I tend to spend a lot more time on CC than he does!)

If anyone knows the exact tool (part no.) for this, many many thanks.

 

[S-Express]

A quick google suggests that you need nothing more than a regular crank puller for a square taper crank.

 

[midlife]

Back in my day TA cranks had a specific (23 mm) crank remover but as mentioned above a standard (22 mm) tool will do the job as TA have stepped into line lol



Shaun

 

[velovoice]

The BB is square taper (UN55) but the interface on the cranks themselves is not, as I understand it.

 

[velovoice]

Just got off the phone with Paul Smith (ex Corridori, ex Enigma) - these cranks have "self-extractor" crank bolts, see http://www.plsmith.co.uk/ta-carmina-chainset-review, and he's explained how to undo them with a simple allen key (of the right size) - see also http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/cotterless.html#sizes (scroll down to the bottom).

 

[S-Express]

If they are self-extract, then removal is simple. The self-extract mechanism screws into the threads which would otherwise be used to screw in the crank puller. Either way, it's not difficult.

 

[velovoice]

If they are self-extract, then removal is simple. The self-extract mechanism screws into the threads which would otherwise be used to screw in the crank puller. Either way, it's not difficult.

Yep. "It only takes an allen key" was the missing ingredient! Nowhere had I seen that mentioned.

 

[Pale Rider]

Quite clever in that you don't need a separate crank puller.

Although as the Park Tools man points out, the lock ring needs to be nipped up.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxAj-zbynPI

 

[velovoice]

Quite clever in that you don't need a separate crank puller.

Although as the Park Tools man points out, the lock ring needs to be nipped up.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxAj-zbynPI

Ah, thank you! I've been hunting for a video!

 

[velovoice]

My OH isn't here to ask, but I think what was puzzling him was the dimples -- which is for tightening the lock ring with a pin spanner. He doesn't have a pin spanner.

 

[Pale Rider]

Ah, thank you! I've been hunting for a video!

No worries, it was all new to me so I'm pleased to have learned something.

Seems you can retrofit self-extracting crank bolts if you have a standard square taper bottom bracket.

You can even get pretty colours.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brand-x-self-extracting-square-taper-crank-bolts/rp-prod1201

 

[velovoice]

Yes, discovered the pretty colours today myself! And Paul tells me you can remove the self-extracting bolts and retro-fit normal bolts & dust covers if you want. Which -- for a variety of reasons -- is what he has done himself.

 

[midlife]

Just out of curiosity, are more modern self extracting systems better than the early ones I came across from Campag / Shimano?

Shaun

 

[S-Express]

Just out of curiosity, are more modern self extracting systems better than the early ones I came across from Campag / Shimano?

The principle is identical - nothing has changed.

 

[velovoice]

Just musing/thinking now, as it's not crucial to the issue at hand, but...

Does "lock ring" mean the same thing as "retaining ring"? I was assuming it does (thinking that the Park Tool was saying "retaining ring" as being the American term) but now I am not so sure. Here is what SJS calls the "lockring" for my TA Vega cranks. And below is a photo of my TA Vega crankset, spider side*, which clearly does not have that but is instead has the ring (with dimples as it's self extracting) that resembles what the Park Tool guy calls the "retaining ring":

* The bolts look the same on both sides on my crankset. I mention this because the Park Tool video shows the demo bike from the non-drivechain set.