Crap brakes

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ChrisV

Formerly CC2014
Location
Falkirk
I have disc brakes, possibly even hydraulic, on my Whyte Suffolk and they've just never been what I'd call brilliant.

Was one of the things I mentioned at the first service, but the guy cleaned them and sent me on my way. Took them back and they adjusted the length of a cable.

Got fed up and went to another LBS for various reasons and they said they'd never been set up properly. So they set them up properly. And the performance was just the same.

I'm not being picky - if a car came out in front of me I don't think I could stop quick enough. I'm ok on rural roads etc but if I needed responsive brakes I'd be struggling.

I'd just like to pull the brakes and stop quickly, maybe even catapult over the handlebars. That's the dream anyway.

I'm sure it's straight forward to adjust them, but I don't know how. Any advice/tips? If it wasn't a C2W bike I'd just punt the bloody thing and start again!!!

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byegad

Legendary Member
Location
NE England
Can't speak for your make but my BB7 cable operated ones are fantastic!
 
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ChrisV

ChrisV

Formerly CC2014
Location
Falkirk
There must be something wrong with them - if other people had my stopping distances they'd be staying away from disc brakes!
 

byegad

Legendary Member
Location
NE England
I have BB7s on two of my three trikes and they are much, much better than any traditional brake I've ever ridden with.
 
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ChrisV

ChrisV

Formerly CC2014
Location
Falkirk
Both. They go right back and then it takes a while to stop.

You'd think a £1200 bike would be a bit better really!
 
You shouldn't be able to pull the levers all the way back. The TRP Hy/Rd set up is supposedly better than BB7s for overall performance. Apparently there are some set up issues though, in that you're not supposed to use the barrel adjuster to take up the slack, so I'd go back to the original dealer and start complaining.
 

Mo1959

Legendary Member
Both. They go right back and then it takes a while to stop.

You'd think a £1200 bike would be a bit better really!
Doesn't sound right. When I had my erm, sheep incident last summer, the last thing I remember hearing was my tyres skidding on the road before I hit it. They both locked solid, but unfortunately I was still too close to stop.
 
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ChrisV

ChrisV

Formerly CC2014
Location
Falkirk
Emailed the original shop. I couldn't skid the bike if my lie depended on it!

My concern is that they are one of the pricier bike shops and try to charge me.

I just want my bike to run well!!!
 
I don't know a lot about cable disc brakes as i only have hydraulic but could it be crap pads? maybe a set of organic pads may prove to slow you quicker. ( if they are not already organic). Have you ever tried another bike with cable discs and if so was it a lot better?.
 

outlash

also available in orange
Those are the hybrid hydraulic calipers with a cable pull aren't they? Supposed to be very decent units, I'd take it back and get it sorted
 
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ChrisV

ChrisV

Formerly CC2014
Location
Falkirk
It's a LBS in Stirling that serves the upper end of the market. When I picked it up you can pull the levers and it feels responsive. I don't think they actually test it beyond this however, as when I actually sit on it and try to stop its crap.

I'm 15 stone before anyone asks:tongue:

Tried disc brakes on my dad's Whyte MTB - don't think they're hydraulic - and they were awesome.
 

zizou

Veteran
Take it back and tell them you are not happy and get them to sort it. Either they are not set up properly or the pads are contaminated (if you spray gt85 or whatever on your bike then make sure you avoid getting it on the rotors).

On a completely unrelated point: where the cable housing is is touching the fork leg, i'd recommend putting a frame protector patch or helicopter tape there, the cable will rub through the paint work otherwise.
 
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