Cup and cone hub service - Deore m525

[l4dva]

My first attempt at cleaning up and greasing cup and cone wheel hubs.

The wheels are new to me but used so thought I’d give them a refresh. The rear hub took me a while but managed to nail it in the end. Basically took them apart de greased / cleaned everything, fresh grease and then put back together again and tuned in the right amount of pre load tension - success!

The front wheel spun pretty nicely as it was but I thought I’d do it anyways. The grease in side was pretty nasty. This time I filled in a bit more grease than the rear hub before reassembling however now I’m really struggling to get pre load dialled in. It feels notchy and then as I very gradually loosen the nut off it will continue notchy until it spins nicely but instantly at that point the axel will have noticeable play in it. I can’t find the middle ground at all.

I’m not sure if I have overfilled it with grease and if that makes a difference? I’m also using Mobil xhp 222 grease, I just brought a big tub so thought why not - I know it won’t spin the fastest but should last a long time. I’m doubting now if I made an error on both these choices?

Any thoughts or tips for me on this one?

Thanks in advance!

 

[lenfield]

This time I filled in a bit more grease than the rear hub before reassembling however now I’m really struggling to get pre load dialled in. It feels notchy and then as I very gradually loosen the nut off it will continue notchy until it spins nicely but instantly at that point the axel will have noticeable play in it. I can’t find the middle ground at all.

That's not unusual. The cup, cone and bearings won't be perfectly round because of wear. I'd err on the slightly notchy side.

PS You could always try replacing the bearings to see if that helps. They're only a pound or two.

 

[wafter]

As above roughness signifies wear, corrosion or parts that are out of tolerance - unusual for Shimano stuff as their QC is usually very good.

It's cheap and easy to replace the balls, if it remains rough afterwards (assuming it's all clean etc) this suggests the bearing surfaces in the hub are damaged; meaning there's not a lot else you can do other than keep running / maintaining it until it dies.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Yeah, always replace the ball bearings as cheap to do. If you replace bearings and fresh grease at timely intervals then the cup and cone last indefinitely. Wear tends to be bearing, cone, finally cup if neglected. Tackle in that order and you protect the latter.

 

[l4dva]

There was a little bit of wear to the cups actually, the cones looked fine. Maybe I’ll see if replacement cups can be brought. And the bearings too. Is there a good place to buy them, decent quality and price?

 

[Ajax Bay]

How could you replace the cups?
Your quality LBS will sell you (ball) bearings the correct diameter for pennies. Take one out to ensure correct size bought. The hub will run fine on one less ball.

 

[l4dva]

Sorry! I totally typed that wrong. The cones had a bit of visible markings around them, the cups look smooth and “normal”. I’ll have a search later to see if replacement cones are available. And will defo get some bearings if they are that cheap

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Sorry! I totally typed that wrong. The cones had a bit of visible markings around them, the cups look smooth and “normal”. I’ll have a search later to see if replacement cones are available. And will defo get some bearings if they are that cheap

Yours for £12 plus postage, or get LBS to order in. Sometimes an old broken wheel, has a matching Shimano hub in good condition. Just take cones off that hub and move across.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/shimano-deore-fhm525a-rear-right-lock-nut-unit-y3sp98090/

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/shimano-fhm529-rear-left-lock-nut-unit-y3sx98020/

 

[l4dva]

Thanks all, new cones and bearing are on the way. Hopefully the exisiting cones and bearings haven't worns the cups too much by now already and these hubs will live on for many more miles!

I've certainly enjoyed the learning, thanks for all your replies and help!

 

[rogerzilla]

Preload tension? QR hubs should be adjusted to leave play in the bearings which disappears when the QR is fastened.

 

[l4dva]

I watched the parks video today that suggested the same, I think Calvin was working on this exact same hub in the video too

 

[scotsbikester]

Thanks all, new cones and bearing are on the way. Hopefully the exisiting cones and bearings haven't worns the cups too much by now already and these hubs will live on for many more miles!

I've certainly enjoyed the learning, thanks for all your replies and help!

As a matter of interest, where did you get the cones?

 

[Ajax Bay]

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spa...plete-hub-axle-for-130mm-oln-141mm-y3f698030/

 

[Fastpedaller]

Sorry! I totally typed that wrong. The cones had a bit of visible markings around them, the cups look smooth and “normal”. I’ll have a search later to see if replacement cones are available. And will defo get some bearings if they are that cheap

Probably best to not buy ball bearings 'made for cycles' such as weldtite or any loose ball bearings from a cycle shop! They are generally worse than putting back the originals, and vary in size considerably. What's needed is graded ball bearings from a bearing specialist - they won't be much more expensive either. Grade 10 will be great, grade 30 will be more than acceptable, but again, not much difference in price.
ETA with the exception of the shimano bearings SJS are selling, which are likely to be good.