Cup & cone adjustment Q

[Archie]

I've been fixing up an old touring bike which I've stripped, cleaned and started to rebuild. Today I reassembled the rear axle. Now I've got the adjustment right, but the spacer on the drive side has a gap between it and the drive side lock nut, whereas I think they were flush before.

Anyone know if this is OK, or will it cause problems?

 

[mickle]

Explain that again? Usually when one dismantles a hub the non drive side is undone leaving the drive side cone/spacer/locknut together on the axle. It makes putting it all back together much more straight forward.

Whatever the cause it's a recipe for catastrophic disaster since a loose drive side cone, driven by the wheel, can screw itself into the hub, crushing the bearing surfaces of the hub and then seizing the wheel completely. Not what you want when you are overtaking a bus.

 

[fossyant]

Strip and re-build the axel - like Mickle says, rebuild the drive side then do up very tight, then adjust using the none drive side when you refit the axel.

 

[Archie]

Explain that again?

Looking from the rear, from left to right:

Wheel nut/dropout/lock nut/cone nut/hub/cone nut/lock nut/gap/spacer/dropout/wheel nut.

Usually when one dismantles a hub the non drive side is undone leaving the drive side cone/spacer/locknut together on the axle. It makes putting it all back together much more straight forward.

I'd undone the cone nuts to take to the local shop as I wanted to get a replacement for the drive side cone, which was slightly pitted. They didn't have the right size, so I'm reassembling for the practical experience. I've rebuilt the axle and then done the adjustment. I'm guessing now what I should do is tighten everything up on the drive side, then complete the adjustment from the non-drive side? *

Whatever the cause it's a recipe for catastrophic disaster since a loose drive side cone, driven by the wheel, can screw itself into the hub, crushing the bearing surfaces of the hub and then seizing the wheel completely. Not what you want when you are overtaking a bus.

Is the lock nut on the drive side not enough to prevent this?

 

[cheadle hulme]

The spacer should be between the cone and the locknut.

 

[mickle]

Looking from the rear, from left to right:

Wheel nut/dropout/lock nut/cone nut/hub/cone nut/lock nut/gap/spacer/dropout/wheel nut.

I'd undone the cone nuts to take to the local shop as I wanted to get a replacement for the drive side cone, which was slightly pitted. They didn't have the right size, so I'm reassembling for the practical experience. I've rebuilt the axle and then done the adjustment. I'm guessing now what I should do is tighten everything up on the drive side, then complete the adjustment from the non-drive side? *

Is the lock nut on the drive side not enough to prevent this?

If the drive side cone is free to turn it'll demolish the hub. It's partly why we assemble that side first, on the bench and out of the hub. As for the gap, is there a shoulder on the axle or a 'step' on the cone or lock nut?

 

[Archie]

If the drive side cone is free to turn it'll demolish the hub. It's partly why we assemble that side first, on the bench and out of the hub. As for the gap, is there a shoulder on the axle or a 'step' on the cone or lock nut?

No, the gap's just bare axle. The locknut is set on the cone, so it's not turning free, but I'm getting the idea I need to redo this.

I'll maybe upload a photo if that'll help?

 

[mickle]

No, the gap's just bare axle. The locknut is set on the cone, so it's not turning free, but I'm getting the idea I need to redo this.

I'll maybe upload a photo if that'll help?

Yeah. i can't get this without.

 

[jimboalee]

Yup. Severely tighten up the drive side cone with its lock-nut first. Then assemble the bearings and non-drive side, using the non-driveside to set bearing load.

The most common forgotten 'last item' is checking the positioning of the rim with a dishing tool.
You have just removed and replaced the faces which clamp against the frame. The rim is relative to these faces.
If you leave out or add spacers, or use a thicker locknut on one side, the fit of the wheel in the frame will be moved.
An item to remember.

 

[Archie]

Here's a pic of the drive side with axle in-situ.

The most common forgotten 'last item' is checking the positioning of the rim with a dishing tool.

Hmmm, no such tool here. I'll just have to go by the dirty marks on the axle.

 

[fossyant]

That's not right. First try flipping that last spacer so the nut is on the end.

It's odd that you have the cone, lock nut and the 'nutted' spacer. There is something wrong there - do double check the threads as there should be no space.