Cycling on a shoestring

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KneesUp

Guru
I run 7 speed at the back at the moment (although I will swap to 8 when this wears out as 8 speed cassettes are easier to get hold of) and it gives more than enough range

And to continue a theme, I am now running 8-speed because I picked up a Rigida rim on a Shimano 8 speed hub, plus a Mavic rim on a Quando hub with a barely used Shimano 8-speed cassette attached for a combined cost of £5 at a car boot this morning. So I now have an 8 speed rear wheel, a spare 8 speed rear wheel and a spare (but rough) 7 speed.

Next on the list, a bike shed. But I saved money on buying the wheels, so that's fine :smile:
 

Nigeyy

Legendary Member
Things you can't do without? Well, good quality braking and reasonable quality drivechain, as well as good tyres and wheelset and good saddle (very subjective).

Things you can do without? Lightweight expensive components, carbon fibre or expensive frame material, super thin tyres, custom paint schemes, 30 speed drivechain, frame weighing 0.5kg.......

The good news about cheap cycling is that -at least with drivechains -you can get old lower speed drivechain components that are great quality -it's just that they don't offer loads of ratios. Personally, I'm very happy commuting on a 7 speed freewheel with a triple crank (however, in all fairness, I'm not going up and down severe hills). Another great thing is with a careful eye, you can pick up old mtbs -good quality ones too -that have 7-8 speed drivechains for short money. The older 90's mtbs have more road like geometry, and really it can just be a case of adding slicks, new inner tubes and new cables and brake blocks to get a really, really nice commuter.

Other thing for cheap cycling? Learn how to mechanic yourself and get some good quality tools.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
A decent bike will last 5 years, the std duration for writing off capital investment.
5x408=£2040.
Your £275 capital cost will save you £1765.
Even if you factor in £100/year service costs, you save £1265

Many people fail to make this simple calculation and assume that cycling should be a shoestring activity, so they commute on a £99 discount store full-sus MTB/BSO with the cheapest tyre using 1970's tech.
Under-spending is just as foolish as over-spending
I'd expect a bike to last at least 30 years with the replacement of a few components, but then I do like steel bikes. :whistle:
 
Biking can be an expensive hobby, if you want to get around for free... walk. If you want to get around faster for next to nothing, it still going to cost you, especially in maintenance department, but for the miles you will cover, we are talking real pennies.

Get yourself a good bike maintenance book and skip on the LBS repair fees. Obviously there will be initial expenses buying tools, but if you plan on cycling for life these are an investment which will keep you moving, also having the skills and knowledge to fix your own bike on the side of the road will get you out of the odd sticky situation.

If you don't have loads of cash, just buy them as you need them. I'd recommend budgeting £20 a month towards tools until you have all the basics, and wait to buy the more advanced tools until you have more money. Certain tools are totally unnecessary so choose wisely, while they can make life easier (i.e. pedal spanners) if you can bodge it with a adjustable spanner that you already own, do that. You won't be changing pedals every day, and if you are, you are likely providing a service to someone that can make you money (this is an interesting point, and I don't know why more people don't offer bike repair services to their friends/family or to strangers on the internet to make a bit of money on the side).

Cheaper components often get bad rep from bike snobs, but I've never had an issue with £2 gear cables or budget chains and rear cassettes. Why anyone bothers to fork out for Shimano/SRAM/gold plated whatever I don't know.

I definitely second having a backup bike if possible, while you are tinkering with one frustrating issue (like my bent rear derailleur), you can at least get on and ride the other bike. Opting for a steel frame bike, while heavier, will be bomb proof and should last you a lifetime if well maintained.

I also support the logic of spending more on clothes, cheaper clothes are false economy as the material is weaker, stitching is often of poor quality and they generally don't last as long or feel as comfortable and will die after 50-100 cycles in the wash. Skimping on clothing is doing yourself a disservice. If you can buy two pairs of decent quality bib tights, (one long and one short for each season), thermal jersey and summer jersey and a few base layers and arm and leg warmers and a rain jacket, you'll probably notice they last several years longer than the Aldi kit.

By only washing stuff when it really needs to be washed, i.e. just change base layers each day, but use the jersey 2-3 days before washing, this will help extend the life of these certain items considerably. Washing machines destroy the fibers in the materials over time, so only wash when your clothes start to smell. A good merino jersey and base layer can be worn for several days before smelling, polyester based items will not fair so well.

Good quality materials will therefore last longer, good materials with sound stitching will therefore put up with a lot more wear before falling to bits. And when the stitches fail, or material is ripped following a crash, learn to repair them yourself. Using your day to day clothes on the bike is going to wear them out, i.e. the crotch in jeans, and if your anything like me, you will own only a few good pairs, stick with biking gear. I learnt the hard way (bye bye favorite Levis!)

Deciding where to draw the line on spending is tough, as already pointed out a pair of Rapha shorts will set you back some serious dough, but if you look after them they retain value and can be sold on to recoup some of the cost. Read up on amortisation. You shouldn't look at everything you buy as sunk money. This applies to all your biking assets, the bike, the tools etc. You can recoup much of the money spent if you treat your tools, clothes and equipment with care. Even more so if you buy used but in good condition in the first place.
 
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A seven mile commute in London would be £150 a month on the tube. I rarely spend more than that in a year on the bike. Attendant costs are negligible, I don't think I've ever had clothes wear out due to cycling. Maybe I eat more but food is my favourite stuff to eat anyway.
 

DCLane

Found in the Yorkshire hills ...
I keep my commuting costs down by doing most of the maintenance myself. Having a workshop at the university helps, although I'm only in there once a month at most nowadays. A toolkit and maintenance stand are essential, along with lubricants/grease and minor parts.

The commuter bike runs 8-speed, which keeps things basic and simple. It runs on good tyres and decent Clarks CPS240 brake pads - and has a proper clean every week.

I've also reserve bike(s) - a 'bad weather' road bike (1980's Raleigh) and cheap MTB - for use when the weather turns nasty. I let them take the punishment during the worst of the winter.

Clothes-wise it doesn't need to be the latest styles; during the World Cup final PBK had a 90% off sale - I bought enough commuter kit to last me the whole of 2015 and 2016.
 

Tynan

Veteran
Location
e4
LBS has a new back wheel ready for me, it's been badly worn for a while (I found an email today mentioning I need a new back wheel, dated from November) and it's been making a noise when braking just like a split rim, which I found when i finally had a proper look for it

Just the two more days to go then, another full value wheel enjoyed to the last gasp, axle was shot too, and a nasty kick although I got used to it, not worth straightening as the rim was so worn and thew wheel wa going to be replaced 'soon'
 
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