Di2 Shifting issues - PLEASE HELP!

[Marchaugh]

First thing swap the spare wheel cassette onto the new wheel and vice versa then try them again, if it is still the same with the same wheels then the cassette is fine but you need to reindex the DI2 positions.

With the crack at the spoke hole, is it an actual crack in the metal or is it anodised and the anodising has split? In either case keep an eye on it and see how it goes, if it gets worse or the spoke pulls through the rim it's time to replace it - if the wheel is under warranty then get it checked out sooner..

Yes I'll give that a go but I have a feeling that it's the wheel. When you say reindex the Di2 positions is that the same as putting it in adjustment mode and making the micro adjustments? I have tried that for quite a while and it's impossible to get decent shifting.

The wheel is carbon and it does look like a crack. I'll post a picture on here later.

 

[Ajax Bay]

The wear of the parts is:
Chain - new
Cassette - about 2500 miles .

Is it the cassette? The cassette as far as I know has done less than 3000 miles and doesn't look worn.

This doesn't really tie in with the OP's description of what the chain is doing but.
You're unlikely to be able to tell by looking whether the cassette is worn (to the point it needs replacement). How many times have you changed the chain (from fitting this cassette new with a new chain)? 3000 miles is about the distance I get when I run my chain and cassette on to the end, rather than replacing the chain every 1400 (or so) miles. If I run a chain beyond 1500 odd miles, then I'll get slipping when I fit a new chain.

 

[Marchaugh]

This is the first time I have replaced the chain since I've had this chain/cassette. However over the winter I had my bike on a turbo using a different cassette and did about 1000 miles.
I check my chain every time I clean my bike with a chain wear indicator and the reason I only replaced it just now is because it had only just started showing 0.75 wear.
Swapping the cassette over will tell, and it would be nice if thats all it is but I doubt it.

 

[Ajax Bay]

0.75% elongation is too much. Change the cassette, and that will match your nice new chain. Happy days are nearly here again.

 

[JhnBssll]

0.75% elongation is too much. Change the cassette, and that will match your nice new chain. Happy days are nearly here again.

^ This. On 10 and 11 speed systems I change my chain as soon as it reaches 0.5% wear. On older 7/8/9 you can let it go a little further I believe, but I would still change at 0.5% to get maximum life from the cassette.

 

[Marchaugh]

Ok thanks.
My chain wear indicator only has 0.75 and 1 and I always thought that 0.75 is when you should change it. That's what I've always done with my 11 speed Ultegra on my other bike and it's always been fine. Manged to get 7,600 miles or of the last cassette without a compromise in shifting.
Maybe the setup on this bike is more fussy. What do people think about using a KMC chain with shimano components? The chain is a KMC X11SL TiN-Gold. Would shifting be better with a shimano chain or shouldn't make a difference?
I hope this is the cause, will make it easy to fix

 

[Blue Hills]

0.75% elongation is too much. Change the cassette, and that will match your nice new chain. Happy days are nearly here again.

Then why is it the first mark on one of my chain checkers?

And my KMC chain checker, which I used as a back-up has just a single indication 80%.

Why would they put that single mark on it if it meant that it was telling you your cassette was already trashed?

They'd have to be pretty perverse.

So I change my chains at 75%, or maybe let them go to 80% under the guidance of those well known chain experts KMC.

Note/declaration of interest - I have a lot of bikes - 7/8/9 speed - nothing above 9 and there never will be.

Maybe I'm blessed.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Manged to get 7,600 miles or of the last cassette without a compromise in shifting.

That's a long way. You must be a very kind to your drive train.

So I change my chains at 75%, or maybe let them go to 80% under the guidance of those well known chain experts KMC.

How many (9 speed) chains (which you wait till 100.8% length before changing) do you get to each cassette?

 

[Marchaugh]

Here's the some pictures of the crack on the wheel. What do people think? Is it OK or should I get it repaired/replaced?
I'll test the new cassette on the bike later.

 

[Blue Hills]

How many (9 speed) chains (which you wait till 100.8% length before changing) do you get to each cassette?

Not sure. Maybe 3. maybe more.

Never been sure about how to spot wear on cassettes so just tend to change every year or so.

usually change at 0.75 I stress.

But can you explain why KMC has a single 0.8 marker on its own chain checker?

edit:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SpJcm5mf8ug

If park tools reckon 0.75 is ok as the point to change the chain, that's fine for me.

And yet another reason to go anywhere near 11 speed (note difference noted by Park)

edit/edit:

From Cyclo and Spa:

https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s72p3975/CYCLO-Chain-Wear-Indicator

also good enough for me

 

[si_c]

Here's the some pictures of the crack on the wheel. What do people think? Is it OK or should I get it repaired/replaced?
I'll test the new cassette on the bike later.

That rim is shot I'm afraid. You can keep riding it for now but I'd plan to replace it sooner or later.

Eventually the spoke will pull through and you will have to remove it, you could keep riding it after that it's up to you, but it would need retruing and might rub your brakes if you're not disc braked.

 

[Ajax Bay]

just tend to change every year or so . . .
But can you explain why KMC has a single 0.8 marker on its own chain checker?

Thanks for the answer: so you change chains about 3 times a year and your cassette annually. Average annual mileage?
Sorry - no idea about the 0.8 marking. Confess I use one of those chain checkers (not KMC or Park) and then try to confirm it with direct measurement (as carefully as I can) with a steel rule over 12 links under tension, minimising parallax. But mostly I just change the chain when I've done 1500 miles (or before that if an imminent long ride would put me over 1500 at the end of it).

 

[jay clock]

I cannot offer help on the gear problem, but that rim needs replacing. I would personally not even ride it with that....

 

[fossyant]

Bin the wheel/rim.

 

[themosquitoking]

That rim looks like a carbon fairing rather than a full carbon rim. If it's just the fairing that's damaged the rim could be fine.