Disc pads, Sintered or Resin?

[cubey]

As titled, which do you use and what are the benefits/downfalls of each.

 

[simon.r]

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/resin-or-sintered-pads-for-shimano-road-discs.213956/

 

[mrandmrspoves]

Resin - less noisy, good modulation and sharper braking.

Sintered harder wearing, but tend to be noisier, less good modulation and less effective braking.

If you are riding off road it is possible to wear out resin pads in one ride - much less of a problem with sintered pads

 

[Tojo]

Have you noticed on some shimano disks they have etched on the webs " for resin pads only " I must admit that I have never seen motorcycle or performance car disks specify what pads to use and I am doubting that shimano uses different metals for their disks for specific pads......

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Have you noticed on some shimano disks they have etched on the webs " for resin pads only " I must admit that I have never seen motorcycle or performance car disks specify what pads to use and I am doubting that shimano uses different metals for their disks for specific pads......

That's because motorcycle discs are made from a material (cast iron or some other brittle substance) that cannot be scaled down to bicycle level. There's a big difference between "Resin Only" bicycle discs and non-marked (resin and metal) discs. The former is stamped from a non-hardened Austenitic stainless steel. These can be recognised from the chamfer left by the die on the one side, and sharp margins on the other. The trained eye will also notice that the sufaces of these have not been finished by grinding and the original sheet-metal texture is intact.
Metal-compatible discs are laser cut from a harder Martensitic stainless and then heat treated for hardness. These can be recognised by their sharp margins on both sides and machined surfaces.

There is a difference. Ignorance regarding their difference is behind 90% of the noise given off by many disc brakes.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Resin - less noisy, good modulation and sharper braking.

Sintered harder wearing, but tend to be noisier, less good modulation and less effective braking.

If you are riding off road it is possible to wear out resin pads in one ride - much less of a problem with sintered pads

Slight correction. More effective braking. Metal pads have a variable coefficient of friction and once in the right temperature range the coefficient of friction of these pads is much higher than that of resin pads. They do require a bit more downforce to get there and have to be ridden harder to keep in the right temperature range but at that high end of enduro, downhill or loaded touring riding, they offer better braking than resin.
They feel different because their bite is variable, hence you are correct in saying that Resin offers better modulation.

 

[cubey]

Great answers Yellow Saddle. I am quite nervous when descending hills and yesterday climbed Home Moss, on my descent I was over keen in applying the brakes and the resulting over heating of the pads made quite a noise. they seem fine now though. Thanks for the info on the differences.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Great answers Yellow Saddle. I am quite nervous when descending hills and yesterday climbed Home Moss, on my descent I was over keen in applying the brakes and the resulting over heating of the pads made quite a noise. they seem fine now though. Thanks for the info on the differences.

This indicates that your pads were probably resin pads, but I wasn't there to hear, obviously. If you overheat resin pads to the point where they make that turkey gobble noise, they've ruined the disc. Resin pads work primarily by adhesive friction (the other type is abrasive friction, as in metal pads) and overheated pads deposit a too-thick layer of pad material onto the disc. This has to be removed abrasively with emery paper and hard elbow grease, before bedding them in all over again.
Most people just put up with the noise and erratic behaviour though.
Dragging your brakes, no matter what type, is not a good thing. You have to learn to brake less but harder and 99% on your front brake only. But that's another story for another day.

 

[cubey]

Thanks for that, and yes a lot to learn.

 

[mrandmrspoves]

Slight correction. More effective braking. Metal pads have a variable coefficient of friction and once in the right temperature range the coefficient of friction of these pads is much higher than that of resin pads. They do require a bit more downforce to get there and have to be ridden harder to keep in the right temperature range but at that high end of enduro, downhill or loaded touring riding, they offer better braking than resin.
They feel different because their bite is variable, hence you are correct in saying that Resin offers better modulation.

Thanks YS, I sit corrected and bow to your extensive knowledge on the subject of braking. I do love the technical insight that you give to such posts - fascinating.

 

[Tojo]

That's because motorcycle discs are made from a material (cast iron or some other brittle substance) that cannot be scaled down to bicycle level. There's a big difference between "Resin Only" bicycle discs and non-marked (resin and metal) discs. The former is stamped from a non-hardened Austenitic stainless steel. These can be recognised from the chamfer left by the die on the one side, and sharp margins on the other. The trained eye will also notice that the sufaces of these have not been finished by grinding and the original sheet-metal texture is intact.
Metal-compatible discs are laser cut from a harder Martensitic stainless and then heat treated for hardness. These can be recognised by their sharp margins on both sides and machined surfaces.

There is a difference. Ignorance regarding their difference is behind 90% of the noise given off by many disc brakes.

Its been years since motorcycle brake discs have been predominantly cast iron most now are stainless steel much like what are used on cycles...