Do my spokes need to be tightened

[Rsdesigner]

I recently added a set of Shimano Ultegra wheels to my road bike. I have done probably 2-300 miles since new. When I'm out of the saddle they rub the brake pads as the bikes leans from side to side, they didn't seem to do that when first fitted unless I was pushing quite hard. Both front and rear are perfectly true. Do spokes stretch durring bedding in? Do I need to tighten them a bit?

 

[I like Skol]

Check your wheels are sat in the drop outs correctly and the quick releases are good'n'tight. It could be that the hubs are moving slightly when you are giving it welly, out of the saddle. A decent set of wheels shouldn't need touching again if they are well built (I never have to tweak the ones I make myself!)

 

[sancho]

I recently added a set of Shimano Ultegra wheels to my road bike. I have done probably 2-300 miles since new. When I'm out of the saddle they rub the brake pads as the bikes leans from side to side, they didn't seem to do that when first fitted unless I was pushing quite hard. Both front and rear are perfectly true. Do spokes stretch durring bedding in? Do I need to tighten them a bit?

Factory wheels come without sufficient tension and not so even tension which result in nipples becoming loose and wheel going out of true. A strong wheel will have sufficient tension and EVEN tension.

So, check the wheel is not out of true and if it is then I suggest you take it to your LBS and ask them to true the wheel and to prevent the same problem happening again, ask them to bring the spokes to the correct tension and even the tension on both sides.

If the wheel is true then check the cone nut is not too loose. Look at the point where the cone nut meets the hub body while moving the wheel side to side. If you see any play then re-adjust the cone nut and check again.

If all is well then you need to determine if the wheel is the right wheel for your weight.


Good luck

 

[Rsdesigner]

Factory wheels come without sufficient tension and not so even tension which result in nipples becoming loose and wheel going out of true. A strong wheel will have sufficient tension and EVEN tension.

So, check the wheel is not out of true and if it is then I suggest you take it to your LBS and ask them to true the wheel and to prevent the same problem happening again, ask them to bring the spokes to the correct tension and even the tension on both sides.

If the wheel is true then check the cone nut is not too loose. Look at the point where the cone nut meets the hub body while moving the wheel side to side. If you see any play then re-adjust the cone nut and check again.

If all is well then you need to determine if the wheel is the right wheel for your weight.


Good luck

Thanks, I'm about 12 stone so no heavy weight the Ultegra'a are good quality so should be up to the job. They are not out of true so I'll check the wheels are sat in the dropouts correctly first and then look at the cone nuts. Thanks for the advice.

 

[I like Skol]

Factory wheels come without sufficient tension and not so even tension which result in nipples becoming loose and wheel going out of true. A strong wheel will have sufficient tension and EVEN tension.

Not necessarily true! The factory wheels on my road bike haven't needed attention in over 1000 miles. The first set of factory wheels on my hybrid commuter never needed adjustment until 1800 miles when the spokes started to rip out of the rim! The warranty replacement factory set started to come unlaced within 70 miles?!?!?!. My selfbuilt set that replaced those have done at least 2.5k and are still good and untouched

 

[betty swollocks]

First thing: check the quick-release is done up good and tight.

 

[addictfreak]

I recently added a set of Shimano Ultegra wheels to my road bike. I have done probably 2-300 miles since new. When I'm out of the saddle they rub the brake pads as the bikes leans from side to side, they didn't seem to do that when first fitted unless I was pushing quite hard. Both front and rear are perfectly true. Do spokes stretch durring bedding in? Do I need to tighten them a bit?

Having the same issue with my mavic ksyrium elites at the moment. Checked the QRs and all in place and tight. Spoke tension is not a good as it should be, so they will be off to my LBS for a bit TLC. Re tension and trueing normally a tenner per wheel.

 

[sancho]

Not necessarily true! The factory wheels on my road bike haven't needed attention in over 1000 miles. The first set of factory wheels on my hybrid commuter never needed adjustment until 1800 miles when the spokes started to rip out of the rim! The warranty replacement factory set started to come unlaced within 70 miles?!?!?!. My selfbuilt set that replaced those have done at least 2.5k and are still good and untouched

I agree, forgive my English as I usually make mistakes. I should have said some factory wheels come under tensioned .....

In my experience, many many years building wheels for paying customers, I've seem too many factory wheels with very low tension and certainly most of them with less tension than I would be happy with on my wheels. Some are very close to having very good tension. Most factory wheels don't have consistency in the overal tension so in my view it's only a matter of time before spokes will become loose.

Ultegra hubs are very good and the Shimano skewers are excellent so unless you got a faulty one or you did not tigh them enough I would rule out the skewers as the source of the problem.

 

[Star Strider]

Cones will be shot by now most likely.

Shimano helpfully not bothering with cartridge bearings like all the sane manufacturers do, leaving you with hubs that are doomed from day one.

 

[e-rider]

if the wheels are still true the this could be flex in the wheel. All wheels flex to some extent, cheaper wheels generally more.
However, more likely that during the bedding in period they are no longer perfectly true, and require some small adjustments
If you have been riding in wet conditions it's possible that the rubbing noise is just louder, and that it has always been there.
Check that the wheels are 'centred' in the frame and brake pads

 

[G3CWI]

It seems surprising that the manufacturers of products seem so lacking in knowledge. You would have thought Shimano would know how to build a reliable wheel and how much grease a hub needs...

 

[Star Strider]

It seems surprising that the manufacturers of products seem so lacking in knowledge. You would have thought Shimano would know how to build a reliable wheel and how much grease a hub needs...

They do know.

They also know that if it lasts too long then you won't upgrade to next years model unless they make some radical change that demands it, which requires very expensive retooling rather than just tweaking the current line up.

 

[Kookas]

They do know.

They also know that if it lasts too long then you won't upgrade to next years model unless they make some radical change that demands it, which requires very expensive retooling rather than just tweaking the current line up.

The flaw in that whole conspiracy-based business model is that if Shimano's wheels are constantly failing, I'm likely to go look somewhere else and they'll lose my custom altogether.

 

[Manonabike]

The flaw in that whole conspiracy-based business model is that if Shimano's wheels are constantly failing, I'm likely to go look somewhere else and they'll lose my custom altogether.

and if everybody is a it, what then?

I'd say most components these days last less than used to do or at least that is what it seems to me.

 

[G3CWI]

and if everybody is a it, what then?

I'd say most components these days last less than used to do or at least that is what it seems to me.

Probably true. There is a fine balance between weight and durability. Weight is easy to measure and sells products. Durability is another matter.