drive train help needed

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Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
When you say 'tweaking' do you mean 'bending' - I think you do. Plastic bending (of the hanger's alloy). Just a tiny little bit of bending into alignment. Or out of it, perhaps by mysterious forces beyond our comprehension. Does your turbo bike's hanger go out of alignment the same way each time? What about all the other times you've had to give a hanger a tweak? At least then we could identify the direction of 'The Force'. Maybe this should be a separate thread.
 

screenman

Legendary Member
To be honest I do not even think about the direction it is out, I will keep a note in future.
 

summerdays

Cycling in the sun
Location
Bristol
Once again thanks for all your replies, I didn't get a chance to have a look today as the weather was not inspiring and I don't really have any where suitably undercover to work
I think its likely That it is a cable problem so this I where I'm going to look first , although I have ordered a chain checker and will be ordering a chain when I can figure out what I need.
@Ajax Bay and @screenman, when you say check hanger is vertical, do you mean just a visual check? The jockey wheels don't appear to be exactly in line with the cassette and I assume they should be does this mean the hanger needs straightening?
I googled hanger alignment and not much came up past wiggle and the like selling a tool for it.
If I understand what you are saying, that the jockey wheel isn't directly underneath one of the rear cogs, then it doesn't necessarily mean the hanger isn't straight, as it could just be a result of the cable needing adjustment. I've only ever looked at my hanger by eye which would spot major bent hangers, the sort you get after dropping the bike.

I'd definitely replace the cable and outer, they are just consumables, and need replacing every now and again anyway. Similarly the chain is fairly easy to replace, and it's worth having a spare set of chain and cables so that you can replace when necessary. I only replace my cassette after more than one chain change.

I'm not as knowledgeable as some on here but the first two things I learnt to tackle on my bike were changing the cables and then changing the chain (and I still need to ask the occasionally question when doing so as I'm not mechanically minded). To change the cables you are going to need cable cutters, I did buy some based on the advice given here, and to change the chain you will need a chain splitter.
 
OP
OP
Ihatehills

Ihatehills

Senior Member
Location
Cornwall
If I understand what you are saying, that the jockey wheel isn't directly underneath one of the rear cogs, then it doesn't necessarily mean the hanger isn't straight, as it could just be a result of the cable needing adjustment. I've only ever looked at my hanger by eye which would spot major bent hangers, the sort you get after dropping the bike.

I'd definitely replace the cable and outer, they are just consumables, and need replacing every now and again anyway. Similarly the chain is fairly easy to replace, and it's worth having a spare set of chain and cables so that you can replace when necessary. I only replace my cassette after more than one chain change.

I'm not as knowledgeable as some on here but the first two things I learnt to tackle on my bike were changing the cables and then changing the chain (and I still need to ask the occasionally question when doing so as I'm not mechanically minded). To change the cables you are going to need cable cutters, I did buy some based on the advice given here, and to change the chain you will need a chain splitter.

Thanks for this, I am going to have a go at changing the cable, I assume that gear cables are fairly universal ?

I've found this and just wanted to check that it will be
Suitable

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-gear-cable-set-shimanosram/

And these cable cutters

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/park-tool-professional-cable-and-housing-cutter/

Is this everything that I'll need?
 

summerdays

Cycling in the sun
Location
Bristol
Looking at the link it reminded me you need Allen keys (have you got those already?), and to finish the job off, the cable crimps for the end of the cable to stop it fraying.
 

summerdays

Cycling in the sun
Location
Bristol
My LBS likes to try and keep gear going if possible until the worst of the winter is over, rather than getting lots of salt on it.
 

subaqua

What’s the point
Location
Leytonstone
One thing that gets overlooked on indexed shifters is fraying of the cable at the nipple that sits in the shifter mech on the handle bars. I replaced cable in the summer as the fraying was cause of poor indexing. I checked mine 2 weeks ago as indexing was a iffy. Had frayed again so a new shifter has been obtained
 

summerdays

Cycling in the sun
Location
Bristol
One thing that gets overlooked on indexed shifters is fraying of the cable at the nipple that sits in the shifter mech on the handle bars. I replaced cable in the summer as the fraying was cause of poor indexing. I checked mine 2 weeks ago as indexing was a iffy. Had frayed again so a new shifter has been obtained
Hmm that's one I usually find has gone the really obvious way:whistle:

So do you pull the cable out to be able to inspect it there?
 

subaqua

What’s the point
Location
Leytonstone
Hmm that's one I usually find has gone the really obvious way:whistle:

So do you pull the cable out to be able to inspect it there?
Yes , disconnect cable at the rear mech remove the plug on the shifter and push cable back a few inches. When back on the Laptop I will post some pics of where it happens on the cable .
 
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