Dropout adjusters

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youngoldbloke

The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
They were on my Campag ends in the 60s, never had a problem with them and meant you could replace the wheel exactly where it should be. Don't think they take much stress as tightening the QR holds the wheel in place. They just position it.
 

NickM

Veteran
Archie said:
...I guess the best fix is the adjusters!
A better one would be to re-space the rear hub to the left (a 1mm spacer moved from the LHS to the RHS should do it) and re-dish the wheel. If that is possible with your hubs, that is; I'm only familiar with Shimano cup-and-cone hubs, which do allow custom rear spacing (and that's why I stick with them).
 

MartinC

Über Member
Location
Cheltenham
There's nothing wrong with using dropout adjusters. Your frame was made to use them - as were most frames with quality steel horizontal dropouts. Most frames now have vertical dropouts and they've gone out of fashion. Using them allows you to set how far back the wheel sits it the rear triangle to suit the tyre size your using. They also allow you to cope with minor misalignment of the dropouts and still get the tracking right - if the adjusters aren't both screwed in equally then something is off slightly. If it's only a small amount then it's just cosmetic.

You don't say which stay the chain is rubbing on. I assume it's on the very bottom of the seat stay. Sometimes on steel frames the bottom of the seat stay where it's brazed to the dropout is bulbous and very close to the small sprocket. It depends on the dropout, the stay and how it's been cut and brazed. In the past you often had this problem when you replaced a standard 6 speed block with a compact 7. The solution was either the very judicious use of a file on the braze (carefully - you didn't want the dropout to drop out) or putting a 1mm washer on the axle on the drive side and re-dishing the wheel if you were picky. It's possible that you have the same problem with a 10 speed Campag cassette in your frame. You may find the problem disappears if you use a cassette with a smaller (12 or 11) smallest sprocket.

Standard road frames aren't made for 9 speed or 10 speed (or 11 speed) they have a 130mm drop out and that's it. Modern alloy/carbon stays and dropouts tend to leave plenty of space for the chain and the problem doesn't occur. 10 or 11 speed chains are also narrower than old 5/6/7/8 speed chains.
 
OP
OP
Archie

Archie

Errrr.....
MartinC said:
You don't say which stay the chain is rubbing on. I assume it's on the very bottom of the seat stay. Sometimes on steel frames the bottom of the seat stay where it's brazed to the dropout is bulbous and very close to the small sprocket. It depends on the dropout, the stay and how it's been cut and brazed. In the past you often had this problem when you replaced a standard 6 speed block with a compact 7. The solution was either the very judicious use of a file on the braze (carefully - you didn't want the dropout to drop out) or putting a 1mm washer on the axle on the drive side and re-dishing the wheel if you were picky. It's possible that you have the same problem with a 10 speed Campag cassette in your frame. You may find the problem disappears if you use a cassette with a smaller (12 or 11) smallest sprocket.
Well, had the bike in the LBS today and they fitted the SJS adjusters, followed by a quick 20 miler. Everything looks good and feels fine. Yes, it was the very bottom of the seat stay the chain rubbed on. I guess by using an old frame I've encountered an old skool problem with a modern groupset. BTW no way am I filing the paint off that braze!

Cheers for all the replies, will report if there's any issues.
 
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