Dummy need help with transmission

[jim55]

ENOUGH!!!
what is with people that want to argue over the finer points ,,,,who really gives a toss ,,lulubel has offered some advice to the guy and you(lukes dad) are just being a dick!!!
hardly gona help the op is it !!!youre debating about nothing and for my money lulubel is right ,,so many threads on here start off in a friendly manner until some cockwomble starts a meaningless debate and the thread shoots off at a tangent to the original post,,,keep it for the kinda intellectual type threads and voice an opinion without causing confusion!!!
and ,,,breathe ,,,1,2,3

 

[HLaB]

Just to throw a spanner in the works compact just refers to the BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter and not the gearing), my Kinesis is a 52/38, 110mm BCD compact. The easiest way for the OP to gain more speed is to change the cassette so it has a smaller cassette if possible, its more effective than changing the chainring but that could also be investigated later.

 

[lukesdad]

ENOUGH!!!
what is with people that want to argue over the finer points ,,,,who really gives a toss ,,lulubel has offered some advice to the guy and you(lukes dad) are just being a dick!!!
hardly gona help the op is it !!!youre debating about nothing and for my money lulubel is right ,,so many threads on here start off in a friendly manner until some cockwomble starts a meaningless debate and the thread shoots off at a tangent to the original post,,,keep it for the kinda intellectual type threads and voice an opinion without causing confusion!!!
and ,,,breathe ,,,1,2,3

The OP wants to know about Drive trains and how to achieve a better top end yes or no ?

White Eagle, to explain a little more. In your situation ( as I understand it, flatish roads ?) The difference between a 48 chainring and a 52 is going to be just over 1 tooth on the rear cassette, a 50 to a 52 will be under that. As Im sure you can see the bearing of the large chain ring on the front has little effect on top speed unless you are making huge steps. To drive a 52/11 on the flat you will have to be very fit and thats on the drops on a road bike. Descending hills is a different story, but not much. To the cassette, think of your drivetrain has having 2 gearboxes the large and small chainrings. The cassette is the ratios contained within that gearbox. A wide spread say a 11/27 (you can go higher than 27 but this would bring in added complications) will give you a greater range but the steps between gears will also be greater. A narrower spread will give you smoother gear changes and better acceleration for example an 11/23.

Chain ring choice becomes much more important when climbing.

jim55 very imformative but Im sure your comments reflect more on you than they do me

 

[Asa Post]

ENOUGH!!!
what is with people that want to argue over the finer points ,,,,who really gives a toss ,,lulubel has offered some advice to the guy and you(lukes dad) are just being a dick!!!
hardly gona help the op is it !!!youre debating about nothing and for my money lulubel is right ,,so many threads on here start off in a friendly manner until some cockwomble starts a meaningless debate and the thread shoots off at a tangent to the original post,,,keep it for the kinda intellectual type threads and voice an opinion without causing confusion!!!
and ,,,breathe ,,,1,2,3

Shouldn't this be in the "Things you'd like to say, but can't" thread?
But... you've posted it... so you have said it.
I withdraw my objection.

To return to the topic, I agree with Lulubel (and with jim55)

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

The easiest way for the OP to gain more speed is to change the cassette so it has a smaller cassette if possible, its more effective than changing the chainring but that could also be investigated later.

I believe the OP has a 3x7 currently, most 7 speed wheels on Halfords bikes have freewheels not freehubs. Afaik 7 speed freewheels (indeed any freewheel) having a smallest cog with less than 13T are rare and no longer made by any reputed manufacturer.

Imho both lulubel and lukesdad clearly know exactly what they are talking about, in that both a larger largest front ring and/or a smaller smallest rear sprocket will increase the OP's top speed for the same cadence. Similarly if the OP has 26" wheels currently a new bike with 700c wheels will also help increase such speed.

Peace...

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

The easiest way for the OP to gain more speed is to change the cassette so it has a smaller cassette if possible, its more effective than changing the chainring but that could also be investigated later.

I believe the OP has a 3x7 currently, most 7 speed wheels on Halfords bikes have freewheels not freehubs. Afaik 7 speed freewheels (indeed any freewheel) having a smallest cog with less than 13T are rare and no longer made by any reputed manufacturer.

Imho both lulubel and lukesdad clearly know exactly what they are talking about, in that both a larger largest front ring and/or a smaller smallest rear sprocket will increase the OP's top speed for the same cadence. Similarly if the OP has 26" wheels currently a new bike with 700c wheels will also help increase such speed.

Peace...

 

[HLaB]

I believe the OP has a 3x7 currently, most 7 speed wheels on Halfords bikes have freewheels not freehubs. Afaik 7 speed freewheels (indeed any freewheel) having a smallest cog with less than 13T are rare and no longer made by any reputed manufacturer.

Imho both lulubel and lukesdad clearly know exactly what they are talking about, in that both a larger largest front ring and/or a smaller smallest rear sprocket will increase the OP's top speed for the same cadence. Similarly if the OP has 26" wheels currently a new bike with 700c wheels will also help increase such speed.

Peace...

Oops , I thought the OP was talking about his new bike, if you are right (and you probably are ) and the existing freewheel is 13T, most new bikes will easily have a smaller cassette cog and should stop Cav above spinning out on the flat IMO its better to widen the cassette range rather than modding the chainrings which will achieve similar effects but loses you the top or bottom gears. Also as said by someone above 1T extra on the chainring doesn't achieve as big a result as 1T less on the rear.

 

[lukesdad]

I know that. We also weren't talking about changing anything. WhiteEagle is buying a new bike. Perhaps you should take a look at this thread if you're not up to date with the whole situation:
Can you recommend a reliable hybrid bicycle?

Quite. The OP clearly states he is strapped for cash. So here s the deal. He gets a 52 ring and finds he is overgeared but his well chosen cassette can accomodate this. He gets a 48 or 50 he maybe slightly undergeared on the 48 (IMO highly unlikely on a hybrid on the flat with his well chosen cassette) No dosh required,certainly not immediately. Can be easily and cheaply rectified on his first new chain. So he chooses his chainring and his choice of cassette is to 'light' or the ratio steps are wrong ? Unless he has the tools he s not going to get much change out of £50 and will probably want to do it straight away.

Most people choose their chain set and rings based on the size of the inner ring not the outer IME.

 

[Crackle]

It's still not clear to me if he is talking about a new bike or changing an existing.

If he's changing an existing, then 42 smacks of a mtn bike chainset set and off the top of my head I don't know what the largest ring is he can get with the same BCD, I'm thinking it might be 46/48. Assuming he then changes it he'll have to move his front dérailleur and he'll need to look if it will accommodate the tooth difference. Getting front dérailleurs to work at their design limits can be tricky, nothing insurmountable but tricky.

If he isn't, then all well and good but without knowing what speeds and cadence he's doing, the only thing I'd say is a faster cadence is easier on the knees in the long run.

Also, if he can get an 11 on a freewheel, a 42x11 at 90rpm is good for 25mph, at 100rpm 28mph whereas a 42x13 at a 100rpm would only be good for 24 and a 46x13 26mph and a 48x13 good for 27.5mph, that's on 26 x 1.5 wheels.

 

[lulubel]

I hope we haven't scared you off, WhiteEagle. The good news is, since you're not planning on getting your new bike until March, you've got a whole month to make sense of all this

 

[lukesdad]

I hope we haven't scared you off, WhiteEagle. The good news is, since you're not planning on getting your new bike until March, you've got a whole month to make sense of all this

Seconded.

 

[EYE-TYE-MAD]

I believe the OP has a 3x7 currently, most 7 speed wheels on Halfords bikes have freewheels not freehubs. Afaik 7 speed freewheels (indeed any freewheel) having a smallest cog with less than 13T are rare and no longer made by any reputed manufacturer.

Imho both lulubel and lukesdad clearly know exactly what they are talking about, in that both a larger largest front ring and/or a smaller smallest rear sprocket will increase the OP's top speed for the same cadence. Similarly if the OP has 26" wheels currently a new bike with 700c wheels will also help increase such speed.

Peace...

True, many of the lower end & the not so lower end older bikes still use screw-on freewheel blocks, however, apart from the technical differences, the principle drive relationship between chainring & sprocket remains the same. Any advantage of a swap from 26" to 700c is so insignificant it's really not worth mentioning as the rolling diameter of a 700c wheel, usually quoted as 27", is actually only 26.3". Also, most frames designed to take a 26" wheel are not 700c compatible.

 

[mickle]

When I reach approx 18-20mph speed on one of those roads I feel that I have to pedal too quickly and it doesn't feel comfortable. I have quite strong thighs and I feel I could pedal MUCH harder and create bigger torque (but I don't like to pedal any faster, it feels awkward and uncomfortable).

Learn to spin, it's easily the easiest and the cheapest fix. And it's also the best solution in the long term for you and for your bike.

Here's one I wrote earlier:

" And finally, if there is one piece of advice that you take away from here I hope it's this;
Gear one is low. Try to always be in a gear that feels too low/ easy/ spinny/ soft.
Three rather than four. Four rather than five.
Pushing high/ hard gears puts unnecessary strain on your joints and on the transmission of your bike. Pushing hard on the pedals promotes muscle bulk so if you want muscley legs go ahead and push a high gear.

Spinning fast in a low gear promotes excellent cardiovascular health, reduces strain on your joints and on your bike, allows you to accelerate quicker and you get quicker gear changes. But the bottom line really is a bottom line, spinning gives you a lovely well defined arse and lean legs. What more could you possibly ask for? "

More here.......

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

Any advantage of a swap from 26" to 700c is so insignificant it's really not worth mentioning as the rolling diameter of a 700c wheel, usually quoted as 27", is actually only 26.3".

Ahhhh while it is true that a 700c wheel could have an outside diameter including tyres of 26.3", are you aware that a 26" wheel could have an outside diameter including tyres of only 24.3"? In the present context I think it is fair to say that all else being equal a 700c wheel effectively gives you an extra smaller cog at the back compared to a 26".

Imho it is wrong to quote 700c as 27" since 27" is a bicycle rim/tyre standard in its own right. However, in the best tradition of the industry to confuse the enemy customer, 700c is the same as 28" and 29er...

 

[mickle]

... are you aware that a 26" wheel could have an outside diameter including tyres of only 24.3"?

Not if fitted with the tyre for which it was designed - the American Imperial 26" x 2.125 baloon tyre introduced by Arnold, Schwinn and Co., Elgin and others C1934, and its modern derivatives

The Kenda tyre fitted to my mountingbike is precisely 26" in diameter.

So ner.