Fence posts

[Ian H]

We put concrete ones in. A local man did the job, a big bloke happy to carry two posts on his shoulder up the garden. It should last us out.

 

[ebikeerwidnes]

On our farm we used telegraph poles as fence posts. Still good after 40 years. What are they made of?

My ex used to work for BT - one of the engineers told her that the telegraph poles were soaked on creosote - literally submerged in big tank - for about 1- years before being used
Which would explain why they don't rot very quickly

 

[Tenkaykev]

My ex used to work for BT - one of the engineers told her that the telegraph poles were soaked on creosote - literally submerged in big tank - for about 1- years before being used
Which would explain why they don't rot very quickly

Coincidentally we had an OpenReach engineer visit a few weeks ago to sort out a Broadband issue. It turned out to be a dodgy joint on the telegraph pole. He pointed out that the pole had a small metal plate with a " D" stamped into it meaning " Do Not Climb " I think it was because of the age of the pole and not the physical condition. A van with a " Cherry Picker " turned up and did the remedial work.

 

[Electric_Andy]

We've always got our posts from a local timber merchant who specializes in fencing. They are pressure treated and so far have lasted very well. The B&Q ones or from any other chain I would not trust to last 5 years let alone 10. But they can be covered or treated as others have said.

Rather than full concrete posts, a concrete repair spur can be very useful. They're only have the size (and therefore half the weight) of a full post but can be set in the ground either in front or behind the existing wodden post. Takes a load more pressure of the wooden post so should last longer.

 

[davidphilips]

After reading all the great posts and information only my own view but treated posts now are not made to last a life time? The treatment is not as good as it was years ago, Still remember the smell of treated wood with creosote the smell seemed to last for weeks the treatment for years.

for me any way its either concrete or perhaps steel posts or if using wood do what jowwy done use spikes and have every thing screwed or bolted together and then its easy to replace.

Years ago i thought treated 100mm posts and put in deep was a life time job little did i know i was just giving myself lots of both expense and extra work, that plus just how much wood has shot up in price.

The great thing about all the replies is any one reading them may just have the information even if they are just contracting the work to a builder etc to make a better fence etc.

 

[twentysix by twentyfive]

I concreted in "godfathers"* and bolted my wooden posts to those. Fence is still going strong after 35 years.

* I think godfathers is a local name as I've heard them being referred to by other names. They are the stub like concrete things often used to repair broken fence posts. I just avoided the breaking part right from the get go.

 

[DaveReading]

When you bought them, did you make them an offer they couldn't refuse?

 

[Deleted User]

I've used those metal spike things but concrete them in rather than just hammer them in then at least they're straight.

If a post does rot its easy to replace, not a lover of concrete posts and gravel boards I have to admit.

 

[keithmac]

I replaced nigh on 40 posts, concrete was not an option due to weight!.

Bought a petrol auger drilled some 3 or 4 foot deep holes and packed them in gravel.

Hasn't moved an inch in 3 years or more and very easil to replace in next 15 years or so.

The gravel provides good drainage as well.

 

[keithmac]

Our fence was hand made so had to cut it into sections, gave up trying to dig the old posts out so installed new posts in between and removed old ones to below ground level.

 

[berty bassett]

timber has gazumped in price and is not the same as it used to be , force grown open grained , will split and rot , point where it will go first is where it continually goes from wet to dry ie top and point where it enters the ground so it will rot at ground level
will last longer if you dont use concrete around it as concrete holds the water
you will end up either replacing with new posts of timber or concrete
or digging down side and fixing concrete spurs
if i had to use timber i would definitely put spurs in and fix wood so its above ground , less chance of rotting
water based preservatives work but not very well
old recipe creosote was wonderful especially if mixed with old engine oil but not allowed
sadolin is very good but dear , cheaper if you spray it
we used new oak sleepers to retain soil 3 years ago , pea gravel behind them to help drain - they are already rotting ,compared to old railway sleepers that have been there years and havent been touched - new wood is expensive rubbish

 

[albal]

Slightly different topic. My posts are fine . Concrete. It's the wood. Finally after 30 year s old i,ve to re new.
It's a rental.
Do I buy the timber separately or the pre made panels. Also coach bolts, nails,top rails.
Is wood pre stained?
I,ve no idea.

Not slot in type, as can see from pictures.

Also do i reverse the panels as opposed to facing the neighbors, sorry not very good at explain ING such stuff you know.
Any advice gratefully appreciated.

I,m thinking before Nov 5th , so my tenant could burn the old stuff on said date? Would that work?

 

[davidphilips]

If it was me i would replace with boards perhaps the round top, along with wood rails, replaced quite a few lately and to give you an idea of price the boards are about £4.50 each and are just under 6 inches wide so along with fixing screws bolts and rails it works out at about £12 for every foot for a 6 foot high fence.
So if say you have 70 feet of fence to replace and your posts are great then for parts allow £850, the price of all timber screws and bolts etc is not cheap.

 

[Jameshow]

Wooden fence posts of the right quality and installed correctly are perfectly fine.

As with everything, Quality depends on price. Too often folks rely on cheap materials and then wonder why they fail.

Fencing from these people is expensive but comes with a 25 year guarantee:
https://www.jacksons-fencing.co.uk/fencing

Also, most amateurs install fencing incorrectly and simply dig a hole, drop in the post and fill with Concrete of "FenceFast" - worse still, some folks will put a layer of concrete in the bottom of the hole before putting in the post and backfilling with concrete - thereby creating a water-filled pocket around the base of the post and a non-draining top to the concrete

The correct technique is shown in Jacksons' instructions:
https://www.jacksons-fencing.co.uk/...hash=5690ED7FCAE1ACA7ECA400123403E05E602BC749


Essential points are a drainage layer of gravel at the bottom of the hole and a chamfered top to shed water

View attachment 602763


Worth noting: a concrete fence post weighs 40-50kg - twice the safe handling weight for one person
A wooden 2.4m 75mm post is about 8kg, 100mm post 14kg.

Both bad, I wouldn't put soil up again the post unless told to by the shmbo as the damp soil will rot the post.

 

[Ian H]

Slightly different topic. My posts are fine . Concrete. It's the wood. Finally after 30 year s old i,ve to re new.
It's a rental.
Do I buy the timber separately or the pre made panels. Also coach bolts, nails,top rails.
Is wood pre stained?
I,ve no idea.

Not slot in type, as can see from pictures.

Also do i reverse the panels as opposed to facing the neighbors, sorry not very good at explain ING such stuff you know.
Any advice gratefully appreciated.

I,m thinking before Nov 5th , so my tenant could burn the old stuff on said date? Would that work?

Those panels are the right way round - smooth side outwards (though lots of folk put them the wrong way round nowadays). The fence probably looks continuous from the other side, but I'm guessing, from the extra rails that aren't attached to the posts, that it's in pre-made sections.