Fitting oak veneer internal doors

[User]

 

[Brains]

Unless you have bough seriously cheap doors, they normally have at least 10mm on the sides and top, and at least 15mm on the bottom, by tapping you may be able to figure out how much leeway you have, otherwise a few discreet holes made with a bradawl or a fine drill bit will give you the answer.

 

[slowmotion]

Ask the door manufacturer what the main core of the door is made of and how thick the lippings on each edge are. If the core is just a cardboard waffle, it's not going to be able to take edge fixings easily.

Most door fitters lose the height by chopping off just the top of the door. Even if the cardboard waffle is exposed, you can't see it unless you are standing on a chair.

 

[Aperitif]

Cut and reglue the batten inside the two leaves - probably cannibalise the original softwood 'bottom rail', or use something that will serve your fixing purpose, and tuck it back in with a good dab of polyeurethane or somesuch grab adhesive...glue the inside of the door, not the rail, or there will be goo everywhere. As Martin says above, cut the top instead - but I would still finish it, not leave it open. Leave too much waffle exposed and your doors will look like big panels of SC&P.

Ooo - look what I found. all you need is a 400 acre smallholding, the contents of a Screwfix catalogue, a slow-motion body (No, not you, slo-mo) slow delivery and tons of spare time. And Jennie's garage.

 

[screenman]

If they are all chipboard then off the top is the way I would go. Failing that refitting a batten is the way I have corrected other people's bodges.

 

[Cuchilo]

You could drill a hole and glue in a timber plug where the screw fixing will be .

 

[HertzvanRental]

However you choose to do it, make sure that you use a fine tooth saw, (I would use a hand saw) and heavily "score" the veneer to prevent chipping.

 

[threebikesmcginty]

Get some solid oak you cheapskate bum.

 

[TissoT]

The doors being compressed chipboard the bottom block is 45/50mm
If you have a channel system for the sliding mechanism that fits in the bottom and you have to trim off more than 50mm
you would be best to router out the bottom of the door so the channel fits in tight to give it grip
personally I wouldn't go trimming anything off the top of the door your will spelch the veneer on the
face of the door (joiner)

 

[sidevalve]

Most door fitters lose the height by chopping off just the top of the door. Even if the cardboard waffle is exposed, you can't see it unless you are standing on a chair.

Can you see underneath ?

 

[raleighnut]

If the core is chipboard then just make sure you use the right screws.


Google 'Chipboard screws'
another tip is to use screws that are plenty long enough and to pilot drill before inserting and make sure not to overtighten them.

 

[TissoT]

Howdens ..
Don't forget to use these with the weight x3 http://www.screwfix.com/p/ball-bearing-hinge-satin-stainless-steel-76-x-51mm-pack-of-2/53116

 

[Aperitif]

Howdens ..
Don't forget to use these with the weight x3 http://www.screwfix.com/p/ball-bearing-hinge-satin-stainless-steel-76-x-51mm-pack-of-2/53116

Should make the sliding door go with a swing.

 

[TissoT]

Should make the sliding door go with a swing.

Some are being hung if I have read correctly ..

 

[Aperitif]

[QUOTE 3962452, member: 45"]Thanks all. For the particular sliding door it's only going to cost another ~£50 for solid oak, which will mean I can cut away to my heart's content,
[/QUOTE]

Some are being hung if I have read correctly ..

Sure. It made me smile - not questioning your expertise, and Mr P's work hinges on the efficacy of er one wood versus another. I'd still go for the lighter ones - but I'm tight - as threepanelsmcginty suggested about Mr P 'upthread'.
See? There is waffle in the doors after all!