Fixing spokes/chain/cassette

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livpoksoc

Guru
Location
Basingstoke
4 miles from home tonight, I changed down rapidly as I approached a junction & my chain went over my big cog on the back cassette & locked up the wheel until three spokes gave way.

Either way I'm left with a chain jammed behind the cassette & three spokes to replace. Given it's high season & most lbs are fully booked for services for a couple of weeks, how easy of a job is it to fix this? I have a cycle toolkit with some tools in it that I've never used so wondering if I could actually repair it myself?

A footnote on this was that during my ride I knew my indexing was out, but only between 4 & 5 in the rear, I didn't expect it to be that bad - especially as at the time I was doing c.40mph on a descent, lucky I didn't come off!
 

mrandmrspoves

Middle aged bald git.
Location
Narfuk
Three different jobs once you have unjammed the chain: Get the rear cassette off, fit the spokes and true the wheel, index the gears.
All are fairly easy to do with the right tools. Chain whip and cassette remover being essential as is a spoke nipple key. A wheel jig is ideal but you can get your wheel pretty close to true using the brake blocks as a visual reference point. Look on You Tube for each of the above tasks.
 
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livpoksoc

livpoksoc

Guru
Location
Basingstoke
Three different jobs once you have unjammed the chain: Get the rear cassette off, fit the spokes and true the wheel, index the gears.
All are fairly easy to do with the right tools. Chain whip and cassette remover being essential as I'd a spoke nipper key. A wheel jig is ideal but you can get your wheel pretty close to true using the brake blocks as a visual reference point. Look on You Tube for each of the above tasks.
I have a connexilink if that's any help?
 

John the Canuck

..a long way from somewhere called Home..
I have a connexilink if that's any help?

doubtful if you'll get the chain out without damaging yet more spokes - so NO

1...remove cassette with a chain whip and cassette lockring removal tool [ both on eBay about £8]
you may have to give the tool a fair bit of brute force to 'crack' the serrations on the inside of the lockring
2 this will release chain - scrap.? - buy a KMC Z7 about £7
3 remove a damaged spoke 1 only
measure 'correctly' from end to inside of the J curve - see internet videos/spoke sellers
order new spokes
insert 1 new spoke - true wheel with spoke key using a brake block as a guide
remove 2nd damaged spoke and repeat
only do 1 spoke at a time

buy and install a dork disk - you can get discrete ones
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371074444539?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
replace cassette and tighten lockring lots till you hear a couple of clicks - if you don't have a torque wrench
index the LOW and HIGH stops on the RD

sounds complex but it's not - just time consuming.....:thumbsup:

if you're RICH------------------------goto your LBS
 
U

User6179

Guest
If the chains knackered then screw or nail it to a piece of 2" x2" about 18" long and use it as a chain whip , far better than cheap chain whips you can buy which easily break plus you can get more leverage and pushing a bit of soft wood against the cassette wont damage it .
 

Brommyboy

Über Member
Location
Rugby
After indexing the gears, check the overall movement: there are two stop screws to prevent the dérailleur from over-running the cassette.
 
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OP
livpoksoc

livpoksoc

Guru
Location
Basingstoke
doubtful if you'll get the chain out without damaging yet more spokes - so NO

1...remove cassette with a chain whip and cassette lockring removal tool [ both on eBay about £8]
you may have to give the tool a fair bit of brute force to 'crack' the serrations on the inside of the lockring
2 this will release chain - scrap.? - buy a KMC Z7 about £7
3 remove a damaged spoke 1 only
measure 'correctly' from end to inside of the J curve - see internet videos/spoke sellers
order new spokes
insert 1 new spoke - true wheel with spoke key using a brake block as a guide
remove 2nd damaged spoke and repeat
only do 1 spoke at a time

buy and install a dork disk - you can get discrete ones
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371074444539?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
replace cassette and tighten lockring lots till you hear a couple of clicks - if you don't have a torque wrench
index the LOW and HIGH stops on the RD

sounds complex but it's not - just time consuming.....:thumbsup:

if you're RICH------------------------goto your LBS

If the chains knackered then screw or nail it to a piece of 2" x2" about 18" long and use it as a chain whip , far better than cheap chain whips you can buy which easily break plus you can get more leverage and pushing a bit of soft wood against the cassette wont damage it .

Ok so here's the tools I have (I know i don't have a torque wrench, but was in the market for one after I adjusted my headset recently &,would prefer not to do it on feel alone next time. This kit is by xtools, not sure if they're a good make or not as it was bought for me when I left my old job.

And here's a pic of the chain/cassette/spokes. Why would I need to buy a new chain?
 

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PatrickPending

Legendary Member
Location
Leicester
Well you have a chain whip there, why would you need a new chain....well maybe not - inspect for damage - replace if damaged, otherwise you can continue with it (assuming you have a missing link to put it back together). As for fixing John's suggestion is good - though I'd make sure the stop screws were set so it wont happen again and leave the 'dork dish' off. Looks like you have the cassette removal tool too, and a spoke spanner. Just get some spokes and you're ready to go. Any of the other spokes damaged though?
 

PatrickPending

Legendary Member
Location
Leicester
Oh I should add that if you do need a new chain you MAY need a new cassette - it depends as to whether the old one has 'stretched' and worn the cassette. If it has a new chain will jump on the old cassette...
 

Sharky

Guru
Location
Kent
Is this your only bike?

If you are eager to get mobile again, might be the time to consider that n+1 and then take your time servicing the current one and make it the "winter bike"

Or just a new pair of wheels and cassette and then repair the broken one later and again fit with slightly heavier tyres for the winter months.

Always good to have a spare bike/wheel, especially when you are about to leave the house and notice the tyre has a flat!

Good luck,

Keith
 
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livpoksoc

livpoksoc

Guru
Location
Basingstoke
Is this your only bike?

If you are eager to get mobile again, might be the time to consider that n+1 and then take your time servicing the current one and make it the "winter bike"

Or just a new pair of wheels and cassette and then repair the broken one later and again fit with slightly heavier tyres for the winter months.

Always good to have a spare bike/wheel, especially when you are about to leave the house and notice the tyre has a flat!

Good luck,

Keith
This is the alternative I was considering...

Current bike was c. £1k (paid £800 cash) in 2011, so that stops me from buying a new one, but was thinking I could do a cycle2work scheme & get an upgrade, but I'm 3 weeks from the Pru so doubt I'd get a new one in time.
 
U

User6179

Guest
Ok so here's the tools I have (I know i don't have a torque wrench, but was in the market for one after I adjusted my headset recently &,would prefer not to do it on feel alone next time. This kit is by xtools, not sure if they're a good make or not as it was bought for me when I left my old job.

And here's a pic of the chain/cassette/spokes. Why would I need to buy a new chain?

Well you have the tools you just need the spokes http://www.cyclebasket.com/m9b0s454p979/ACI_ALPINA_Stainless_Steel_DB_Spokes_Silver_Singles_
 

S.Giles

Guest
I've been fascinated on several occasions to observe the vitriol that those little plastic spoke protectors engender. Could someone please explain the rationale to me?

I'd really like to begin hating them too, but I'm not sure how to get started...

Steve
 
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