Flat-proofing a bike

[2wheelstenacity]

Hi all. I use Gatorskin lights.

Yesterday, I had a flat. At the furthest point in my 25-mile ride. I really don't want any more flats.

What's the best way to "flat-proof" your bike? I have a full carbon Scott btw.

I'm thinking of upgrading from Gatorskin lights to the full, heavier Gatorskins. Are the full Gatorskins appreciably better at resisting flats? Or a solid, no air tire, if they exist (probably not).

Otherwise, what do you suggest?

 

[nogoodnamesleft]

Claiming no expertise but these days the word "proof" tends to be avoided as it more a question of reducing risks that can't be totally eliminated eg what used to be waterproof is these days water resistant (even my 200m depth dive watch is only advertised as water resistant).

In addition to tyres, etc. you can make any puncture you do get trivial. I carry Vittoria Pitstop which is a small canister of compressed air and sealant mixture. When you get a puncture you push it over the air valve and it injects sealant and re-inflates the tyre and a few minutes later all sorted and ride on. No mucky hands, no tools, no dismantling, no pumping, etc.

Had to use mine once and was well impressed. Initially headed straight home just in case but after a few miles reverted to original ride as it was a good repair.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Schwalbe double defence if you can’t handle punctures.

 

[Anthony-C]

Irrelevance alert - a light bike feels nice but I ride an electric hybrid so at the end of the day I'll settle for whatever works.

I bought slime tubes of various brands but they all clogged solid / worked too well to the point where removing the core (Schrader) still didn't let air in. Solid tyres are reported to feel lifeless and forums suggest tubeless need investment, careful setup and some maintenance. I settled on Schwalbe DD tyres rated 5/6 for puncture resistance after trying M+ (6/6) and finding them stodgy. Very happy now (apart from £110/pr).

 

[Alex321]

Hi all. I use Gatorskin lights.

Yesterday, I had a flat. At the furthest point in my 25-mile ride. I really don't want any more flats.

What's the best way to "flat-proof" your bike? I have a full carbon Scott btw.

I'm thinking of upgrading from Gatorskin lights to the full, heavier Gatorskins. Are the full Gatorskins appreciably better at resisting flats? Or a solid, no air tire, if they exist (probably not).

Otherwise, what do you suggest?

Solid tyres do exist but are seriously horrible to ride.

Otherwise, there is no such thing as completely flat-proof.

Schwalbe Marathon+ are probably the clostest you will get, but are quite heavy and slow compared to the sort of thing you have been riding.

Tubeless is also an option, but if you pump them up to normal road bike pressures, they may not seal when you need them to. And a significant gash in the tyre will defeat even tubeless.

 

[katiewlx]

the only tyres I know that are fully puncture proof, are solid tyres, but they feel horrible to ride on.

whilst a bunch of tyres like schwalbe marathons are quite good at puncture protection, Ive run Spez armadillos too, but the tread separates from the casing eventually, which makes them useless, or the inner casing eventually breaks and that gives you the puncture instead.

plus the downsides of them is the puncture protection comes at increased difficult at getting the tyre off the rim.

sometimes its easier to go for the tyre that are easier to remove and just accept punctures are a thing we have to deal with, annoying as they are

 

[Ian H]

It shouldn't take more than ten minutes to replace the tube - quicker with practice. Pump the tyres up fully and avoid running over crap on the road.

 

[N0bodyOfTheGoat]

Some lanes in the South Downs are infamous for flint punctures, but I've been incredibly lucky over the last nine years, no written record but pretty sure I've had less than five. Iirc using GP5000s; GP4000Siis and Grand Sport Races on my carbon road bike.

Solid tyres are horrid to ride, had some in the 90s.

But what has transformed my alloy gravel ebike this year was swapping the rear 40mm Marathon Supreme with butyl tube for a 45mm Caracal Race and latex tube, the extra comfort and free speed from less rolling resistance is incredible... I got numerous PBs yesterday without even trying properly! 🤣

 

[nogoodnamesleft]

It shouldn't take more than ten minutes to replace the tube - quicker with practice. Pump the tyres up fully and avoid running over crap on the road.

Not OPs question but I started carrying the sealant/inflate mini canisters one winter when despite wearing winter cycling gloves I found my fingers go so cold I'd have trouble moving them and realised if I got a puncture, without much control of fingers, repairing/replacing inner tube would (for me) not be possible.

 

[Vapin' Joe]

Punctures should not be regarded as a problem, but a feature. Live with them and practice changing a tube.

 

[boydj]

I commuted for many years with Conti GP 4-Seasons tyre. They've got good puncture resistance, while still being reasonably light. GP 5000s are good too. I did try Armadillos, but was not impressed by either the grip or the puncture resistance. Going tubeless is worthwhile, which I did for club rides.