For The Attention of Bike Assemblers

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Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Photo Winner
Location
Inside my skull
Also - Grease. It exists. It's not very expensive.

I tend not to watch movies on the bike.
 

rogerzilla

Legendary Member
The recommended torque is surprisingly high. If you only tighten by a few clicks, it won't come off but the cassette does tend to fret against the freehub splines, notching them.

Having said that, removing the one on my mate's bike involved him sitting on the wheel while I used a mallet on the end of a 12" spanner.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Same with thread on BBs, pedals and cassette lockrings.
Like others, please could you be more explicit.
A cassette will not rotate (compared to the freehub splines) so I can't see this is right: the lockring needs to go click (x6 ime) for the spec of 40Nm.
And the idea of screwing pedals on 'hand tight' does seem unnecessarily 'loose': why not just tighten them on, once they gone on most of the way by hand, with grease.
BB (old style with loose bearings) will be well tight on the right side and have a lockring on the left. The lockring needs to be tight tight against the cup to maintain the correct compression. If ST cartridge bearings both sides have to be tight tight rather than hand tight. Outboard BBs have a specified torque they should tightened and you sure won't get that by fingers.
 

ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
I needed a bit of help when an 8" adjustable spanner didn't give me enough leverage recently. I found a length of copper pipe and made myself a spanner extension...

Spanner extension.jpg


I thought the pipe might bend in use, but it worked perfectly.
 

Jameshow

Veteran
Use half the spanner / Allen key length to tighten, then use the whole length to untighten!

Carbon you need to be more careful obvs.
 

Alex321

Guru
Location
South Wales
I had the same problem fitting different pedals to a new bike. Need a scaffolding pole to get the original ones off.

But pedals are self-tightening, so if they've been on for a good while, they are likely to be hard to get off no matter how loosely they were originally done up.

TBH, that is true of most of the screw fit rotating parts on a bike, they are designed so that the normal direction of rotation will tighten them up. Though I did have my front through-axle work loose on Sunday ( a couple of weeks and over 200 miles since I'd last had the wheel off).
 
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