Front mudguard bracket

[Twilkes]

When fitting a front mudguard, can the bracket go either in front of or behind the fork, or is one method better than the other?

The shop fitted it with bracket in front but there is a little rubbing I can't get rid of, is there likely to be more clearance if the bracket is behind the fork?

Last resort is to put the bracket behind the fork and cut off the mudguard before it goes through the fork, but I'm hoping it won't come to that. I use Michelin Pro 2 Endurance 25mm tyres which are apparently a bit taller than the average tyre.

 

[alicat]

Where is the rubbing? Can you post pics and say what mudguard?

 

[Twilkes]

Bontrager NCS ii mudguards, the rubbing is either from the top or side of the tyre, and pretty much coming from underneath the front fork. Wil try to get a photo tomorrow.

 

[Twilkes]

Where is the rubbing? Can you post pics and say what mudguard?

Pics taken in the dark, but this is the fitted mudguard:



This is the clearance from the front, we're talking millimetres:



And this is the bracket at the front, which I'm wondering whether I should try attaching to the back of the forks instead, either as-is or with the front part of the guard cut off if I'm never going to achieve enough clearance for it to go under the fork:



I could always just try it and see, just wondered if anyone had a similar experience. I've read about drilling holes in the guard and attaching it with cable ties but no idea how that would work really.

 

[fossyant]

So you need a little more clearance at the front of the guard.

Easy, just press down on the mudguard stays (both sides) and this will lift the front slightly, or undo the retaining bolts on the guard for the stays, and move the position gently until the front rises up.

If that doesn't work, you may want to undo the bracket and carefully bend it ever so slightly to lift the front.

All guards need a little fettling.

 

[Twilkes]

So you need a little more clearance at the front of the guard.

Easy, just press down on the mudguard stays (both sides) and this will lift the front slightly, or undo the retaining bolts on the guard for the stays, and move the position gently until the front rises up.

If that doesn't work, you may want to undo the bracket and carefully bend it ever so slightly to lift the front.

All guards need a little fettling.

I'll give that a try, but what if there's just not enough room between the tyre and the fork for the guard to fit cleanly?

 

[fossyant]

I'll give that a try, but what if there's just not enough room between the tyre and the fork for the guard to fit cleanly?

It will work. you don't need much room, just enough to stop the front catching under vibration. I've managed to get raceblade longs to fit a 90's steel race bike with no mudguard clearances - just.

I wouldn't cut the whole front off, maybe just take a little off, but if you adjust the stays, and re-angle the bracket, it will lift the front slightly. An adjustable spanner is good for adjusting brackets.

 

[Twilkes]

It will work. you don't need much room, just enough to stop the front catching under vibration. I've managed to get raceblade longs to fit a 90's steel race bike with no mudguard clearances - just.

I wouldn't cut the whole front off, maybe just take a little off, but if you adjust the stays, and re-angle the bracket, it will lift the front slightly. An adjustable spanner is good for adjusting brackets.

Thanks will try it. The shop's way of getting it to not rub was to partially deflate the tyre and then not tell me.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Most mudguards I've seen are designed to be attached at the rear of the fork. From what I can see you bolted it at the front. As above the stays can affect the very front of the mudguard, get it right and they'll force it upwards away from the tyre. Try and get the bracket as high as possible when bolted at fork. If rubbing at the side, you can bend the mudguard where it passes through the crown. Most mudguards are fairly robust and are quite happy with that kind of abuse.

 

[Ajax Bay]

is there likely to be more clearance if the bracket is behind the fork?

Probably. And with a disc braked wheel you have the option.

Most mudguards I've seen are designed to be attached at the rear of the fork.

Interested to know how you judge that.
SKS show both options: https://www.sks-germany.com/en/download/15414/
Acknowledging that the OP's brakes are disc, nearly all caliper brake nuts are recessed ones. So the (riveted on) bracket cannot be secured behind the fork (crown).
I grind the 'slot' in the bracket further towards the guard so I can get the mudguard as high as possible under the fork crown, limited by the position of the caliper arms when the brake is applied. This maximises the clearance between the guard and the tyre (at that point).

 

[Twilkes]

In my research, I did find a Sheldon Brown nut that enables rear fitting, presumably for that scenario? https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sa-o.html#sheldonnut

 

[Ajax Bay]

a Sheldon Brown nut that enables rear fitting

Yes but. £16! (a pair)

 

[Smokin Joe]

Most mudguards I've seen are designed to be attached at the rear of the fork.

I've only ever attached them at the front.

 

[boydj]

Like AB says above, there's scope to file down the centre of the bracket to lift the mudguard slightly.

 

[Twilkes]

Thanks, I moved the bracket to the back and it has helped, it’s still a very fine balance though and there is still some light rubbing somewhere. I think the restriction is under the fork itself, not the bracket, but will try to get it onto a stand at some point to work out exactly what’s going on. It's rideable now though.