Front mudguard bracket

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andrew_s

Legendary Member
Location
Gloucester
The reason that the mudguard is normally fitted at the rear of the fork crown is that the part of the bracket that's attached to the mudguard isn't then between the mudguard and fork crown.
It can make about 2 mm difference on the clearance, unless there are other issues keeping the guard from being raised.
 
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Twilkes

Twilkes

Guru
The reason that the mudguard is normally fitted at the rear of the fork crown is that the part of the bracket that's attached to the mudguard isn't then between the mudguard and fork crown.
It can make about 2 mm difference on the clearance, unless there are other issues keeping the guard from being raised.

Yeah having taken the mudguard off myself I can see the screws under that bracket poke down below the level of the inside of the guard itself, so if that's under the fork you're losing a bit of clearance there. Fitting it to the rear also means you can take the guard off without removing the wheel, if necessary.

On a stand I managed to get it pretty much perfect, but the slightest movement had it rubbing, and it was very easy for it to move so much that it brought the wheel to a stop. The issue is the clearance under the front bit of the fork so I think I'm going to cut the front part of the guard off and just live with feet protection only.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
I can see the screws under that bracket poke down below the level of the inside of the guard itself, so if that's under the fork you're losing a bit of clearance there
On my (retired but not yet thrown) SKS Chromoplastics the rivet head on the inside (tyre) side is very low profile - see image - I'd estimate <1mm. The bracket thickness is, maybe, 2mm with the peened rivet end almost flush. I can see (from images online) that on the Bontrager NCS ii mudguards there are substantial bolt and nuts securing the bracket which will reduce clearance 'tween tyre and guard and also prevent the guard being snugged up to the fork crown.
I've also attached an image of the cut off and ground down bracket on my SKS Chromoplastics: to address two issues: firstly if left at full length the bracket fouls my headset lower cup (so cut off what's not needed) and secondly grinding the slot down closer to the guard allows it to be fitted much closer to the underside of the fork crown.

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Twilkes

Twilkes

Guru
On my (retired but not yet thrown) SKS Chromoplastics the rivet head on the inside (tyre) side is very low profile - see image - I'd estimate <1mm. The bracket thickness is, maybe, 2mm with the peened rivet end almost flush. I can see (from images online) that on the Bontrager NCS ii mudguards there are substantial bolt and nuts securing the bracket which will reduce clearance 'tween tyre and guard and also prevent the guard being snugged up to the fork crown.
I've also attached an image of the cut off and ground down bracket on my SKS Chromoplastics: to address two issues: firstly if left at full length the bracket fouls my headset lower cup (so cut off what's not needed) and secondly grinding the slot down closer to the guard allows it to be fitted much closer to the underside of the fork crown.

Who's the dude poking his head over the top of the first photo? :smile:
 
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Twilkes

Twilkes

Guru
So I cut the front of the mudguard off about a centimetre after it goes under the fork, and now although there will be a bit of spray at the front the rear fits fine with no rubbing.

There was probably 10mm of clearance at the rear of the fork, but at the front of the fork I couldn't even get a 5mm hex key between the fork and the tyre. Combine that with the bracket bolts sitting a millimetre or two proud of the underside of the mudguard and there was realistically just not enough clearance to set up the guard and have it stay friction free throughout a ride.

Happy it's sorted though. :smile:
 

silva

Über Member
Location
Belgium
Such aluminium rivets are crap, vibrations easily deform them causing the guard to sit loose and worsen the vibration. In the past I had to drill them out several times to replace them with countersunk head bolts washers and nuts.
 

Mike_P

Guru
Location
Harrogate
Front mudguards generally are a pain, that on my ebiked hybrid was okay despite the front wheel being slightly buckled but having put a new perfectly straight wheel on instead it catches:wacko:
 
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