Have the aforementioned on my 18 mth old bike. Anyone know what is required to give the crank a bit of a tighten up ? The locking bolt on the non-drive side is 10mm and I have a 10mm Allen key. There is also some sort of lock-ring around the locking bolt with 6 small holes around it. Do I need to do anything with the lock-ring or can I stick the Allen key in and give it a tighten ? If that`s all required, what direction to tighten ... I would assume clockwise. If it is not quite so straight-forward, I assume a special tool needed for lockring ?????
FSA-K Light cranks
- Thread starter jimbut
- Start date
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rustychisel
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Adelaide, Australia
What you call the lockring is a self extracting bolt through which the main Allen keyed 10mm bolt runs. A little complex to explain, easier to see when you get apart, but the self-extractor screws into the crank and has a shoulder so that when you undo the 10mm bolts it backs out against the shoulder, effectively 'pulling' the crank off the spindle with it.
Anyway, it might be worth getting a bike shop to look at this if you cannot achieve good tension/tightness just by doing up the 10mm bolt a bit. Play in cranksets such as these can be because the holding bolt (the 10mm) is loose, or because there's room measured across the bearing faces (they use a wave washer to 'pack' out the slack a bit but it's vulnerable to wearing out). Or movement might come from the bottom bracket cups being loose, or combination of the above. Yours is likely to be a MegaExo BB set up, I'd say? Do you have a competent LBS who won't just say "spend a $$$ and replace it" but can actually diagnose and rectify?
First, see if you can tighten it a bit. Beware, some of those alloy 10mm bolts were made of cheese; ensure you get the Allen Key fully recessed and take it easy. The first one I had chewed out; I took it too the LBS who said "oh yeah, FSA gave everyone spare bolt kits 'cause it happens all the time" and replaced it for me. I think that has since been rectified, but its a good idea to make sure the tool is fully engaged regardless.
So, tighten clockwise (from left hand side facing bike), no special tool needed for self extractor.
Cheers
RedBike
New Member
- Location
- Beside the road
Just tighten the bolt as normal.
That ring with the holes in it is just part of the self extracting mechanism.
That ring with the holes in it is just part of the self extracting mechanism.
battered
Guru
Top Tip - if you aren't sure a hex key is fully seated, give it a medium sized tap or two with a mallet or a small hammer. Don't be shy, it's steel.
Then check it for wobbles and if there are none, you can then nip it up a bit. I often do this if there may be a bit of gunk stoping the key engaging properly. I've chewed hex bolts before on an old car, and it was a right rave sorting it out.
Then check it for wobbles and if there are none, you can then nip it up a bit. I often do this if there may be a bit of gunk stoping the key engaging properly. I've chewed hex bolts before on an old car, and it was a right rave sorting it out.
Globalti
Legendary Member
Yes, do it up f**k off tight. Or use a torque wrench. Then just nip the collar up with some needle-nosed pliers, not too tight mind you!
If you damage the bolt let me know as I've got a spare one unused, which came when I bought the collar that had got lost. I can post it tomorrow.
If you damage the bolt let me know as I've got a spare one unused, which came when I bought the collar that had got lost. I can post it tomorrow.
