Gardeners!
- Thread starter Tin Pot
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keithmac
Guru
[QUOTE 5228202, member: 9609"]did you say you had 40 to do 
if its 2 hours a post - that would be a good weeks work
what are they ? 3 x 3s[/QUOTE]
They're 4x4's, think the fencers had shares in postcrete!. To be fair it was a very good job they did.
Keep coming across this...
Bought an SDS drill but even with that it's been back breaking!
Luckily my wife isn't shy of a bit of work and had got stuck in as well!.
Just a couple left..
I'm amazed it took the wind as well as it did looking at the posts that have come out!.
if its 2 hours a post - that would be a good weeks work
what are they ? 3 x 3s[/QUOTE]
They're 4x4's, think the fencers had shares in postcrete!. To be fair it was a very good job they did.
Keep coming across this...
Bought an SDS drill but even with that it's been back breaking!
Luckily my wife isn't shy of a bit of work and had got stuck in as well!.
Just a couple left..
I'm amazed it took the wind as well as it did looking at the posts that have come out!.
keithmac
Guru
I got 6 done yesterday but the majority was spent cutting the fence into pieces and pulling postcrete out, using a 1500w SDS drill to break it up but its blooming heavy lent over a hole!.
The concrete is about 6inch under ground level, maybe why they've failed?.
I've been setting them back in by augering a 2 1/2 foot 200mm hole and packing with gravel (for drainage). Have a bit tamping foot but again that's bloody heavy after battling postcrete!.
Setting the posts in virgin ground is a breeze!, half an hour each at most but unfortunately I can't alter the post positions.
Was mulling over doubling up the posts (one every 3 foot) but wife said this was a bit too excessive!.
Good luck with your tree!, I dug a large Laurel out a few years back and that was bad enough!.
The concrete is about 6inch under ground level, maybe why they've failed?.
I've been setting them back in by augering a 2 1/2 foot 200mm hole and packing with gravel (for drainage). Have a bit tamping foot but again that's bloody heavy after battling postcrete!.
Setting the posts in virgin ground is a breeze!, half an hour each at most but unfortunately I can't alter the post positions.
Was mulling over doubling up the posts (one every 3 foot) but wife said this was a bit too excessive!.
Good luck with your tree!, I dug a large Laurel out a few years back and that was bad enough!.
keithmac
Guru
Cloudy but dry luckily in York!.
Heltor Chasca
Out-riding the Black Dog
Not gardening per se but as my flock of chickens are essential for weeding duties and beautiful compost I feel this is kind of relevant.
One of my rare breed Cou Cou de Rennes got broody yesterday. Normally I turn them over and remove the eggs. This can be a perilous affair. But thIs time I ‘have a feeling’ about this and I’m leaving her be.
Watch this space.
Last edited:
- Location
- Next door to Mr Benn at No 54
A few years ago, a very large tree in my garden was infected with Honey Fungus and despite many attempts to save it, the tree had to be chopped down for safety reasons. Big branches were likely to fall onto people.
It was cut down to ground level, (then shredded and removed) and over the years the middle of the stump has decomposed, but leaving a harder wood outer edge, if you see what I mean. As the wood has decomposed, I have left it where it is. I would now like to remove the outer bits, but how does Honey Fungus move to other plants?
As I understand it, not all plants or trees are susceptible to the disease, but I do not want to inadvertently spread it. Can I put the chunks of soft wood in my compost heap, or should I make an insect hotel or something out of them? Parts of the remaining chunks often have a white sort of fungus on them, so I presume the fungus is still present.
It was a very big tree so the diameter of the trunk at the base is about one metre.
It was cut down to ground level, (then shredded and removed) and over the years the middle of the stump has decomposed, but leaving a harder wood outer edge, if you see what I mean. As the wood has decomposed, I have left it where it is. I would now like to remove the outer bits, but how does Honey Fungus move to other plants?
As I understand it, not all plants or trees are susceptible to the disease, but I do not want to inadvertently spread it. Can I put the chunks of soft wood in my compost heap, or should I make an insect hotel or something out of them? Parts of the remaining chunks often have a white sort of fungus on them, so I presume the fungus is still present.
It was a very big tree so the diameter of the trunk at the base is about one metre.
Heltor Chasca
Out-riding the Black Dog
@Speicher Your entire garden will have the mycelium of the honey fungus covering it. And your neighbours’ and more. It is also known as boot lace fungus because of the largest ‘roots’ but most of the mycelium is microscopic.
It is thought that the world’s largest living organism was a network of mycelium from a single honey fungus in the USA. It covered an area as large as the Yellowstone National Park.
It is impossible to remove and herbicides for domestic fruit is now illegal. Some plants are less susceptible to this fungus and young, healthy fruit trees don't suffer. It is only weak, diseased or old plants that suffer. Like all gardeners in U.K. you will have to live with it I’m afraid. Feed and water your stock well and you are in with a good chance.
It is thought that the world’s largest living organism was a network of mycelium from a single honey fungus in the USA. It covered an area as large as the Yellowstone National Park.
It is impossible to remove and herbicides for domestic fruit is now illegal. Some plants are less susceptible to this fungus and young, healthy fruit trees don't suffer. It is only weak, diseased or old plants that suffer. Like all gardeners in U.K. you will have to live with it I’m afraid. Feed and water your stock well and you are in with a good chance.
- Location
- Next door to Mr Benn at No 54
@Heltor Chasca
Almost all the plants in the garden have remained healthy. Even the Amelanchier Canadensis that was planted after the old tree was removed, and a row of very old plum trees at the end of these gardens.
Almost all the plants in the garden have remained healthy. Even the Amelanchier Canadensis that was planted after the old tree was removed, and a row of very old plum trees at the end of these gardens.
Heltor Chasca
Out-riding the Black Dog
Excellent. So it’s not such a big worry after all. I think the RHS has a list somewhere of plants that have resistance to honey fungus if you want more stock.
- Location
- Next door to Mr Benn at No 54
Thank you, I will bear that in mind. I try to grow plants from cuttings, and have been reasonably successful.
The Amelanchier has some stems growing from the base. Will these grow into new plants from cuttings?
Heltor Chasca
Out-riding the Black Dog
Yes. Rootle around a bit and find the suckers which already have roots at the base. Plonk into Sharp grit compost and you should get what you wish for. Fun.
Dave 123
Legendary Member
- Location
- Cambridgeshire alps
OP
OP
Tin Pot
Guru
Interesting and not what I would have assumed:
Honey fungus spreads from living trees, dead and live roots and stumps by means of reddish-brown to black rhizomorphs (root-like structures) at the rate of approximately 1 m a year, but infection by root contact is possible. Infection by spores is rare. Rhizomorphs grow close to the soil surface (in the top 20 cm) and invade new roots, or the root collar (where the roots meet the stem) of plants. An infected tree will die once the fungus has girdled it, or when significant root damage has occurred. This can happen rapidly, or may take several years. Infected plants will deteriorate, although may exhibit prolific flower or fruit production shortly before death. - Wikipedia