Gear help for newbie please

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Kbrook

Veteran
Hi all, new to road biking and this forum. I bought on impulse a Ribble sportive road bike, nearly new. I have been out on it about 6 times the last two rides being 49 and 45 miles. I live in a hilly part of the Uk and am struggling to get up some short but reasonably steep hills. I end up out of he saddle with my legs just about turning , I haven't stopped yet but was mighty close twice today. Now this is my fault for not doing my research beforehand but it turns out I think have bought what i thought was a compact but turns out is a double. It has a 52/39 up front and a 12/23 at the rear. I think his may be the cause of my problems, do I need to a. Give up cycling b. get another bike c. Change the rear cassette or the front cogs. If so what could get that would fit and give me a significant benefit, would I need to change the chain and is it a DIY job. I really hope that my pathetic attempts at hills and speed overall is not just down to me, please. Help and thanks in advance.
 

betty swollocks

large member
Your cheapest option would be to persevere, loose weight and train to get stronger. Climbing is all about power to weight ratio.
Next option would be to get a cassette with a wider spread of ratios 12/28 12/30 even. If you do this, you'll a) need more links in your chain and b) need to check that your rear derailleur can handle those extra. This'll probably be cheaper than buying new, smaller chainrings, say 50/34, which is another option.
Good luck ^_^
 

paul04

Über Member
I would swap the rear cassette to something like 12/28 (which is the same as mine) and it should make climbing those hills a little better.

it is a DIY job if you have the right tools, might be worth looking for a local bike shop and just ask how much it would be to swap it for you.
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
Your cheapest option would be to persevere, loose weight and train to get stronger. Climbing is all about power to weight ratio.
Next option would be to get a cassette with a wider spread of ratios 12/28 12/30 even. If you do this, you'll a) need more links in your chain and b) need to check that your rear derailleur can handle those extra. This'll probably be cheaper than buying new, smaller chainrings, say 50/34, which is another option.
Good luck ^_^
like e said i would go for a wider range cassette
 
Location
Pontefract
By the time you buy a chain whip and lockring removal tool, it would likely still be cheaper for an LBS to do it.
Yea but when your fit enough, you just change it back for free, and when the cassette wears, free labour then, or what about you go away to a really hilly place, just pop the wider cassette back on, heck it's only a 10 min job, and my cogs are individual ones. The tools will be less than £20, in fact Lidl have a tool kit on this weekend for £20, not the greatest, but most of the kit in one has served me well enough this last year, though I got it in 2009.

Your cheapest option would be to persevere, loose weight and train to get stronger. Climbing is all about power to weight ratio.
Next option would be to get a cassette with a wider spread of ratios 12/28 12/30 even. If you do this, you'll a) need more links in your chain and b) need to check that your rear derailleur can handle those extra. This'll probably be cheaper than buying new, smaller chainrings, say 50/34, which is another option.
Good luck ^_^
From what I understand a compact is on 110BCD rings a double usually 130BCD, so the O.P. would probably also need to change the chainset and also the the crank. Though never having dealt with them I am not 100% sure.
 

betty swollocks

large member
Yea but when your fit enough, you just change it back for free, and when the cassette wears, free labour then, or what about you go away to a really hilly place, just pop the wider cassette back on, heck it's only a 10 min job, and my cogs are individual ones. The tools will be less than £20, in fact Lidl have a tool kit on this weekend for £20, not the greatest, but most of the kit in one has served me well enough this last year, though I got it in 2009.


From what I understand a compact is on 110BCD rings a double usually 130BCD, so the O.P. would probably also need to change the chainset and also the the crank. Though never having dealt with them I am not 100% sure.
Yes. The Bolt Centre Diameter may well be different, so the OP will have to check this out if they go the chainring route.
 
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Kbrook

Veteran
Thanks for all the replies, can I just ask in relation to the first reply, if I was an ace super fit cyclist those gears should be enough to get me up anything is that correct? Is there somewhere where you can compare gear rations for compacts/ doubles ? My friend who has a compact reckons that he can get up pretty much anything small cog at he front second or third largest at the back, and I refuse to accept he is that much fitter than me, although he does weigh two stone less !
 
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Kbrook

Veteran
Oh and another question, would changing to a 12/28 cassette make a difference to just the bottom gear or all the way through the range. Sorry if these are really stupid questions and I really do appreciate all the replies.
 
Location
Pontefract
Oh and another question, would changing to a 12/28 cassette make a difference to just the bottom gear or all the way through the range. Sorry if these are really stupid questions and I really do appreciate all the replies.
Nothing is stupid if you don't know it, we all have to learn at some point.
Cassette ranges will vary I dont know what you have on the back 8/9 or 10 sp but it doesn't really matter the follow table is for 9sp HG50
9sp ratios.JPG

As you can see from the top 2 some are the same and some are different.
Thanks for all the replies, can I just ask in relation to the first reply, if I was an ace super fit cyclist those gears should be enough to get me up anything is that correct? Is there somewhere where you can compare gear rations for compacts/ doubles ? My friend who has a compact reckons that he can get up pretty much anything small cog at he front second or third largest at the back, and I refuse to accept he is that much fitter than me, although he does weigh two stone less !
Nearly 13Kg makes a big difference, thats as my bike weighs on a good day.
Its easy to work out the ratio divide the front ring number of teeth by the number on the rear for example 52th front 13 th rear ( this keeps the maths simple) is a ratio of 4:1 so for every rotation of the crank the rear will rota 4 times, so your double 39x23 is 1:1.7 a compact 34x23 is 1:1.48 quite a bit lower. a 39/28 is lower at 1:1.39.
 

SpokeyDokey

67, & my GP says I will officially be old at 70!
Moderator
Crikey - if you are knocking out rides that length on rides 5 & 6 using that cassette I doff my hat to you - well done!

Go get a 'bigger' cassette as suggested as your knees will be shot to bits after a while if you carry on like that up hills.

Don't give up cycling though as at your current rate of progress you'll be in the TdF in a year or two. :laugh:

Welcome to the forum btw.
 

raindog

er.....
Location
France
Thanks for all the replies, can I just ask in relation to the first reply, if I was an ace super fit cyclist those gears should be enough to get me up anything is that correct? !
What you've got there is more or less standard racing gearing, but even the pros will fit bigger sprockets for mountain stages, and will sometimes even fit smaller chainrings for 15% - 20% climbs, so for ordinary mortals like us, it's quite normal to want lower gearing if you're in a hilly area.
So don't worry about "ace super fit cyclists" - just shove a 12-28 cassette on and enjoy your riding. :smile:
 
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Kbrook

Veteran
Thank you so much for the replies, I should have done more research before buying. I am going to do something today either get the cassette changed or change the bike. Last question, I promise, would a compact give me significantly better or easier gearing than changing my rear cassette to a 12/28 ?

If money wasn't an issue which way would you go? Think I might be a tad obssessed after two weeks cycling!
 

SpokeyDokey

67, & my GP says I will officially be old at 70!
Moderator
Thank you so much for the replies, I should have done more research before buying. I am going to do something today either get the cassette changed or change the bike. Last question, I promise, would a compact give me significantly better or easier gearing than changing my rear cassette to a 12/28 ?

If money wasn't an issue which way would you go? Think I might be a tad obssessed after two weeks cycling!


Well, you don't need to change the bike just change some bits on the bike. The bits you take off can be sold on ebay or whatever.

This will give you an idea of what effect of any changes to your gearing (go grab a cuppa, put your feet up and while away 30 minutes or so):

http://www.machars.net/bikecalc.htm

I'm no expert but I think the things you can do are change the front rings (possibly) and the rear cassette (definitely) - neither of which is big beans on the money front (although that could be a relative statement).

Money no object I'd change both but that's just me. I am in my 6th decade (pretty fit) and live in a non-horizontal part of the world. My 46/36 and 12/28 is just the ticket for me.

In the real world I'd change the cassette (you may well need a new chain too) and see how you get on. Still no joy and I'd start tinkering up front so to speak.

Another option would be (possibly) to go up to 32 at the back (might need a new RD & chain) etc. Life; full of choices!

Best thing is to go and see a decent LBS if you have one. Have a chat and he (are there any she's) will fix you up.

Don't change the bike!
 
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