Gear levers

[Grumpy old git]

Hi, my wife and I are new cyclists and are really enjoying it. The only problem is my wife really struggles to change up to a bigger cog at the front, changing down is not a problem as it seems that gravity helps the chain. I have lubricated the whole mechanism and shown it to the bike shop with no result. How can I reduce the resistance at the lever? As a last resort I was thinking of lengthening the lever somehow to increase the leverage. Can I buy a longer lever or is there some trick to it. Thanks in advance.

 

[summerdays]

When I first started I had a few problems until I took it back to the bike shop and the owner explained it again....

When I'm changing down I normally just flick the trigger and it shifts, but if I want to change up I need to hold it whilst it completes a rotation of the pedal and shifts to the larger ring. I wasn't holding it long enough for it to complete the shift. Could that be the problem?

Or is she having problems due to it being stiff or in the wrong position for her to reach it properly?

 

[DaveReading]

The only problem is my wife really struggles to change up to a bigger cog at the front, changing down is not a problem as it seems that gravity helps the chain.

Bear in mind also that there is a spring in the derailleur whose job it is to move the chain from the larger to smaller ring(s). So when you are changing up you are overcoming the spring resistance whereas when you change down the spring is helping.

It also means that if there is any additional friction such as a sticky pivot, you will need even more force to change up, whereas the effect on changing down may not be noticeable.

I'd be tempted to take the chain off and investigate just how stiff it is to move the derailleur, both via the lever and by pulling directly on the cage. Something doesn't sound right with your setup.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

There are a few things that can be done. But why not show us a photo of the FD area?
I would highly recommend a new cable, but thinks like how the FD cable is routed etc would help to come up with a plan. let's see a photo or two. Gear lever as well.

 

[DRM]

What sort of bike is it, are you refering to a road or a hybrid/mtb type, generally speaking the two shifters, on either style of bike operate in reverse to each other, on shimano road for example the right hand side small paddle selects the higher gears(increasingly harder to pedal), but on the left small paddle puts the chain onto the smaller chain ring(easier to pedal) perhaps she is getting mixed up with which of the shifters performs which function whilst riding.

 

[Flyboy]

I would just change to twist grip , they are bomb prove , and so easy to change up and down.

 

[Grumpy old git]

Thanks for getting back so quickly, the bike is just a few months old and is a hybrid. It's a Marin San ansalmo. It's had its first check service during which the gear action was checked and no fault found, it was suggested that her thumb would get stronger. It is stiffer than my much older bike.tomorrow she will try the suggestion of holding it for a full rotation, thanks for that, I will let you know how she gets on. Here is a couple of pics.
Cheers

 

[Sharky]

The need to change between the front rings can be a bit over rated. You can get quite a variance in ratios by just changing on the rear sprockets. Try just staying on the middle ring at the front.

 

[mjr]

They look like the fraudulently-named "EZ-Fire" shifters. I find them annoying despite having long fairly strong thumbs. I second the suggestion of switching to twist grip shifters, although personally I switch to single levers. You'll need new brake levers too, I think, as it looks like they're one unit, but any brand of V- brake levers would do.

 

[Grumpy old git]

Thanks for all your suggestions, it's been very useful. As suggested I have removed the chain and the action is good. I have contacted my bike shop about a twist grip assembly so I think that's the way to go, although I believe some makes are less than good. Thanks for taking the time to help me its been brilliant. It seems my wife may now stop her thumb strengthening exercises!

 

[summerdays]

Personally I don't get on with grip shifts, and can find them stiffer to operate, see if you can try before you buy.

 

[raleighnut]

I'd say it was a technique problem, those shifters need steady pressure and time to shift the FD as they have to physically 'lift' the chain off the smaller sprocket. another thing is 'cadence' if you're only turning the pedals quite slowly then the time to shift is longer whereas if you're pedalling quite briskly the shift is faster and easier.

 

[mjr]

I'd say it was a technique problem, those shifters need steady pressure and time to shift the FD as they have to physically 'lift' the chain off the smaller sprocket.

It's been a while, so I'll have to go check, but I'm pretty sure the ratchet on those clicks before the shift has completed, so it holds itself and you don't have to keep pressure on with your thumb.

 

[mickle]

In addition to summer days's excellent advice, it's worth checking that the brakes/shifters are set at the correct angle. The most common installation error is to set them too high. The brake lever should be set in line with the wrist. Usually around 45 degrees. If the STI unit is set too high you're asking the thumb to move way to far to actuate a shift.

 

[raleighnut]

It's been a while, so I'll have to go check, but I'm pretty sure the ratchet on those clicks before the shift has completed, so it holds itself and you don't have to keep pressure on with your thumb.

No you need to 'overshift' to get the front mech to change then release it back to the 'click' position to allow clearance on the mech (with a triple in the middle ring)