Getting off and walking on Hills....

[gunja99]

You really shouldn't be struggling to hold the brakes, even with rim brakes. Do you have any grip strength issues ? Hydraulic breaks are so light ?

Are your pads contaminated ?

Big difference with MTB brakes TBH - rim brakes are damn right rubbish on steep stuff, no power, grip of death to try and slow down. Hydraulic MTB brakes are designed for one finger operation (I use two).

They new hydrualic discs, and prety sure no contamination ( I do test things before set off).

Link to bike BTW: https://www.cube.eu/en/2021/bikes/road/road-race/attain/cube-attain-sl-greynblack/

 

[gunja99]

Well done mate. Perseverance is the key.

There's a git of a hill between me and work which I can see from my living room (it dominates the landscape). I'd been cycling hard for six weeks before I tackled it, but it beat me to a pulp about a third of the way up and I walked the rest.

I defeated it eventually with a combination of fitness, determination and better gear use.

Some days, I hit the top on granny, others days I can do it a couple of rings down.

Main thing is, I can beat it and It's never going to beat me again.

Hah cheers. Was the up hill expected to be the main issue and it wasn't, was the down lol. Definitely more practise up too, but not as much as down as want to enjoy that part after all the hard work getting up!

 

[Lovacott]

Hear, hear. I have descended many an alpine route on my 'rubbish' rim brakes.

I love the discs on my MTB. It doesn't matter how muddy or wet it is, they stop the bike.

But disc brakes are an MTB thing and have no place on a road bike.

The best place to place to grab a spinning wheel is on the outside and if you try to grab a spinning wheel near the centre, you will probably end up with a broken wrist.

But if you are not riding a mud bike in mud, rims brakes are the thing to have (less weight, greater leverage).

It's a horses for courses choice.

 

[Mike_P]

Would a shorter stem help? You should be able to hold the brake levers easily and if that is not the a shorter stem is the normal resolution. I do not descend that quickly but that is more to do with the appalling state of most roads and always try to keep my speed to a visible distance I can stop in without their being a pot hole etc in sight.

 

[fossyant]

But if you are not riding a mud bike in mud, rims brakes are the thing to have (less weight, greater leverage).

They don't have the same stopping power as discs. Personally, I can lift the back wheel even on a fully panniered up road bike with rim brakes.
But discs have more stopping power for less 'squeeze' - it's why I'm concerned that the OP is struggling as they shouldn't be getting pain/fatigue in their hands breaking on Mow Cop, for example (I've ridden it a few times).

The 'biting point' on rim brakes is easier to adjust near to the bars - if the reach is adjusted on road hydraulic disc levers, does that also move the biting point closer to the bars ? I only have MTB disc levers to play with ? They are easy to adjust.

The gravity well that is the descent off Cat and Fiddle to Lamalode is something else, because if you don't scrub off all your speed before the sharp right hand gravel strewn bend at the bottom you will crash - now that's a sore finger braking descent. You easily hit 40mph without trying !

 

[gunja99]

But discs have more stopping power for less 'squeeze' - it's why I'm concerned that the OP is struggling as they shouldn't be getting pain/fatigue in their hands breaking on Mow Cop, for example (I've ridden it a few times).

Interesting stuff, thanks. I dont seem to be squeezing. Im sure it'll be reach if adjusted (don't want to move the levers, as bar tape, etc... ergh). The brakes work well, and it's probbaly fear, tightness, etc I need to work on. With my short fingers they won't help!

 

[Lovacott]

They don't have the same stopping power as discs.

I seriously don't notice any difference in clean and dry conditions.

Sorry, but I really don't.

 

[fossyant]

I seriously don't notice any difference in clean and dry conditions.

Sorry, but I really don't.

Road bikes probably not huge, other than discs being 'lighter' on the old fingers - you are limited by grip. My MTB's are worlds apart !

 

[matticus]

There are various reasons against "dragging" the brakes on a long/big descent.
Best to let the bike go, then brake pretty hard when you think things are getting dicey. (if the gods are with you, this will happen to be just before the next bend). Of course it takes a bit of initial practice to judge the best moment.

One benefit should be less tired hands.

Various clever people have worked out the numbers around hot rims, aero drag etc. Here is a good discussion:
https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?t=125403&start=105#p1280997

Sheldon Brown recommends switching between front and rear if you are dragging the brakes for a long period:

Spoiler: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html
On long, straight mountain descents, your front brake hand may get tired, or you may be at risk of overheating a tire and blowing it out, so it is best to spread the work between both brakes. Pumping the brakes, alternating between one and the other, will briefly heat the surface of each rim more and dissipate more heat before it spreads inwards to the tires. When sharp deceleration is needed, the front brake is more effective, as usual.

 

[Richard Fairhurst]

The decent from the Bosley cloud I stayed on, but from Mow Cop, on a 22% downhill (I didn't use the killer mile on way up or down for anyone who knows it), but I just had to get off. Was the fact was pointing down, I dunno.

I wouldn't be too worked up about that. A sustained 22% is fairly rare on-road in the UK. The last downhill where I felt "blimey this is steep" was 18% - Mynydd Aberdare and yes, it was a silly idea trying to go there in the first place. By all means work on your downhill technique, but I wouldn't put hours into being able to cope with 22% descents.

 

[cougie uk]

I think you're running before you can walk. I can't think of a nastier descent than off Mow Cop. And it's an absolute bugger to ride up.

Practice on easier less steep hills to get a feel for control - you shouldn't have to ride down any hill at 10mph.

Mow Cop is so nasty and bumpy that I would only descend on the drops - but 90% of hills I'd be happy on the hoods.

Once you have your confidence on normal hills you should have a better feel for faster descending.

 

[Tail End Charlie]

When descending any steep hill use the drops as others have said, but also get your weight well back even to the extent of hanging off the rear of the saddle (I hook my nadgers over the rear of the saddle).
Well done on getting up both Mow Cop and The Cloud, but strictly speaking there's only one way up Mow Cop

 

[cyberknight]

When descending any steep hill use the drops as others have said, but also get your weight well back even to the extent of hanging off the rear of the saddle (I hook my nadgers over the rear of the saddle).
Well done on getting up both Mow Cop and The Cloud, but strictly speaking there's only one way up Mow Cop

ala pantani

 

[Ridgeway]

I too think this is a brake calliper reach issue. When on the drops the strain is on the underside/inside or your wrists and if you have too much pressure there due a combo of hard braking AND a poor position for what ever reason then it will be very uncomfortable.

To start with the basics is your position on the bike comfortable and generally OK, have you looked at some online bike fit instructions ? could well be just poor bike fit.

A tough descents "grip of death" will only exaggerate the problem.

 

[AuroraSaab]

Just wanted to say thanks to all who have contributed so far. I'm a very slow biker, and I won't be either ascending or descending any 22% gradients at any point soon, if ever, but I've found these tips about controlling the bike at speed really interesting and useful.

'Hooking my nadgers over the rear of the saddle' doesn't apply in my case, but still, good to know...