Getting off and walking on Hills....

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OP
OP
gunja99

gunja99

Well-Known Member
Location
Cheshire
Just watched the videos. Looks very simple. Assume Allen key for 105. Quick question they all mention the cable tension for the brakes. I have hydraulic disc so not an issue I guess? Will it affect the gears at all?
 
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CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
Just watched the videos. Looks very simple. Assume Allen key for 105. Quick question they all mention the cable tension for the brakes. I have hydraulic disc so not an issue I guess? Will it affect the gears at all?

It won't effect gear shifting. Be careful to check the brake lever doesnt bottom out against the handlebars before having sufficient braking force
 

roubaixtuesday

self serving virtue signaller
There are hills, and there are hills.

Some descents (eg Snake Pass, Cat& Fiddle) are glorious taken fast and very safe with low inclines. On such, 40 mph plus is absolutely no problem for a skilful and experienced rider.

Others (eg Mow Cop, Hard Knott, Honister, Winnats) are damn dangerous and need to be taken an minimal speed, at least for the steep sections, by any rider.

*Nothing* is more important than staying safe and within your comfort zone. Getting off if uncomfortable is fine, and far better than crashing.

Never feel pressurised to descend quickly.
 
OP
OP
gunja99

gunja99

Well-Known Member
Location
Cheshire
Some brilliant feedback in here, and have adjusted the reach now to the minimum it can be (and no, one pulling full on the levers they don't touch the handlebars, but I have my multi tool, and will check them next time out). Didn't even have to pull back the hoods (which I have never done, lol) to adjust.

I am comfortable on the bike, a lot more than my previous Triban, with hardly any arm and back ache after 3/4 hours in the seat, it's so much nicer. I also feel pretty confident of the bike under me (from cornering to braking). This is why yesterday after descending these hills and having pain in my hands I was a little disheartened. Hopefully the adjustments will help.

A few people have said that I am running before I can walk, and tbh I kind of agree. I do like a challenge, and the main reason for getting up (and down) these hills, is that I entered the chieshire cat medium (80 miles), which includes Mow Cop, and was scheduled for 28th March (now Sept 12th, though only found that out last night!) So wanted to "check them out" before hand (got ages yet now!)

Think I need to find some long but more gentle (22% is a little insane, and think killer mile is actually 25%, but I've run that loads, don't fancy up or down it!) near by can try and get confident on the brakes, and let the bike go more. I was using both and applying feathering to front/back, etc, etc. More than happy to take on a load of advice on here. Good to see the usual cycle chat go off topic and discuss RIM vs DISC for road bikes, always makes me chuckle. But do really appreciate the advice you all give :smile:
 
OP
OP
gunja99

gunja99

Well-Known Member
Location
Cheshire
When descending any steep hill use the drops as others have said, but also get your weight well back even to the extent of hanging off the rear of the saddle (I hook my nadgers over the rear of the saddle).
Well done on getting up both Mow Cop and The Cloud, but strictly speaking there's only one way up Mow Cop ;)
I do want to use the drops and comfy on them on the flats and gentler down hills, bike feels comfy overall, even down in the drops!

I totally agree there's only one way up, I've run it and done running hill reps a lot up there. Not quite ready to attack it face on yet uphill, and probably even longer for downhill!! One day maybe, but not yet ;)
 

Lovacott

Über Member
I totally agree there's only one way up, I've run it and done running hill reps a lot up there. Not quite ready to attack it face on yet uphill, and probably even longer for downhill!! One day maybe, but not yet ;)
A steep hill to a new starter cyclist is the same as a 10k is for a new starter runner.

You wouldn't begin your running career by attempting a 10k on your first day. You'd start with a few gentle jogs, then a lap of the local park and so on until after six months, you'd run your first 10k.

Same with cycling up hills. It might only be 500 yards of cycling to get to the top of the hill, but the top of the hill should be your goal in six months time. For the time being, make your initial goal the first 20 yards and walk the rest. Then each day, see if you can go a bit further.

I've said it before on here, but a year ago, there were hills I thought I'd never be able to cycle up which I now do daily.

As for hurtling downhill, I've had some adrenalin rushes on fast downhill sections but I've never come to grief. When you start to exceed 30mph, you develop a heightened sense of awareness which helps to keep you out of trouble.
 
OP
OP
gunja99

gunja99

Well-Known Member
Location
Cheshire
A steep hill to a new starter cyclist is the same as a 10k is for a new starter runner.

You wouldn't begin your running career by attempting a 10k on your first day. You'd start with a few gentle jogs, then a lap of the local park and so on until after six months, you'd run your first 10k.

Same with cycling up hills. It might only be 500 yards of cycling to get to the top of the hill, but the top of the hill should be your goal in six months time. For the time being, make your initial goal the first 20 yards and walk the rest. Then each day, see if you can go a bit further.

I've said it before on here, but a year ago, there were hills I thought I'd never be able to cycle up which I now do daily.

As for hurtling downhill, I've had some adrenalin rushes on fast downhill sections but I've never come to grief. When you start to exceed 30mph, you develop a heightened sense of awareness which helps to keep you out of trouble.
Whilst I do agree with you I started my running career with MK Marathon, 5 months after getting off couch as a 30 a day smoker at the age of 32/33.... I've run 16 marathons or ultras, and only 1 10k (think done more marathons than any other distance!)

Getting my turbo bike sorted again today and do need to work on my weight and power, and got a few months now until the Cheshire Cat!
 

iluvmybike

Über Member
Just watched the videos. Looks very simple. Assume Allen key for 105. Quick question they all mention the cable tension for the brakes. I have hydraulic disc so not an issue I guess? Will it affect the gears at all?
Hydraulic brakes 'self-adjust' so once you have set the right lever position just give them a quick squeeze or two and they will be fine
 
You want to find what I call a "fun" hill.
Good tarmac and sight lines down the whole of it, no side junctions and a gradual runout at the bottom.
You can safely have "fun" letting the bike go and hit speeds of around 30 mph.
Not only that, but you can also practice slowing down from those speeds on it.
Once you built your experience up of hitting those speeds and stopping from them but you'll also build up your trust in yourself that you can do it safely.
While I have been known to easily reach speeds of +40 mph on the right "fun" hill, I've also been known to descend at ~10 mph if the hill is silly steep, twisty and narrow.

Luck ........... ^_^
 

RoubaixCube

~Tribanese~
Location
London, UK
While I have been known to easily reach speeds of +40 mph on the right "fun" hill, I've also been known to descend at ~10 mph if the hill is silly steep, twisty and narrow.

Luck ........... ^_^

I too have experienced both of these things. Both terrifying as hell descending at +30mph and so exhilarating at the same time. I have also come off the bike going down one and shaved a few grams off one of my legs :laugh:
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
They don't have the same stopping power as discs. Personally, I can lift the back wheel even on a fully panniered up road bike with rim brakes.
But discs have more stopping power for less 'squeeze' - it's why I'm concerned that the OP is struggling as they shouldn't be getting pain/fatigue in their hands breaking on Mow Cop, for example (I've ridden it a few times).

The 'biting point' on rim brakes is easier to adjust near to the bars - if the reach is adjusted on road hydraulic disc levers, does that also move the biting point closer to the bars ? I only have MTB disc levers to play with ? They are easy to adjust.

The gravity well that is the descent off Cat and Fiddle to Lamalode is something else, because if you don't scrub off all your speed before the sharp right hand gravel strewn bend at the bottom you will crash - now that's a sore finger braking descent. You easily hit 40mph without trying !
Only been down it once a couple of years ago,mid summer and it was 6 c and dense fog at the top
 
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