Headset connections

[fossyant]

Don't mess with the saddle position. It won't be optimal.

I'll suggest bar ends, or Ergo type grips. I've moved from a very stretched out road bike set up, to modern MTB's - wide is a word, and not as long as the road bikes. It's down to hand position - I suffer if I can't move about, so longer flat rides, in the same position hurt. Lots of rough stuff, getting off the bike, walk carry, etc. don't. I don't have bar ends now though, too dangerous off road and trees...

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

. There is a sweet spot fore and aft in terms at what point in pedaling you are pushing down vs forward. Simply pushing the saddle forward will change that a bit and if that is a problem moving the hands back and up may be better. Hope you find a solution that works for you.

Pedalling efficiency and leg fatigue is definitely influenced by the horizontal distance between the centre of the BB and the centre point on the saddle, as I posted about on another thread a few months back.
I find that I can push a given number of gear inches easier on a frame with a 70 degree seat tube angle vs a frame with one set at 73 degrees. Being slightly further back within the wheelbase seems to make riding a more relaxing and comfortable experience. If I sit too far forward with more weight on my arms, it's more tiring. I also believe stability under hard braking is better if you aren't too far forward as it's harder to lift a rear wheel and go over the bars if there's more weight over it.

 

[Andy in Germany]

Pedalling efficiency and leg fatigue is definitely influenced by the horizontal distance between the centre of the BB and the centre point on the saddle, as I posted about on another thread a few months back.
I find that I can push a given number of gear inches easier on a frame with a 70 degree seat tube angle vs a frame with one set at 73 degrees. Being slightly further back within the wheelbase seems to make riding a more relaxing and comfortable experience. If I sit too far forward with more weight on my arms, it's more tiring. I also believe stability under hard braking is better if you aren't too far forward as it's harder to lift a rear wheel and go over the bars if there's more weight over it.

Worth knowing. Hopefully the reduction at the front end will give me a bit more leeway in saddle position.

 

[tallbikes]

Saddle now pushed forward as far as it can go, and a stubbie headset on order as a first attempt.

Will have to see if it makes a difference...

Once ur new stem comes and u fit it I'd suggest trying set ur saddle so that the center of your knee is directly over the center of the pedal when you have the crank completely flat and you're sitting in the saddle,
I think If it's more forward than this your arms will take too much weight and if it's too far back you'll lose a lot of pedalling power, and possibly lower back pain,
But I'm sure you'll find a comfortable position with your new stem!

 

[Nigelnightmare]

I notice that the saddle is higher with the bent bars, this effects the reach making it longer.
Have you grown taller since changing from flat bars?

 

[Andy in Germany]

I notice that the saddle is higher with the bent bars, this effects the reach making it longer.
Have you grown taller since changing from flat bars?

I hadn't noticed that, or more likely, I forgot about it: it was a few years since I changed to the swept bars. It's probably because the reach was uncomfortably long on the straight bar, so when I got the swept one I raised the saddle to a more comfortable position.

 

[Vantage]

There are several schools of thought on how a bike should be set up for its owner and all conflict with each other. Even those pricy bike fitting experts sometimes get it wrong.
It's taken me almost a year since building it to get my bike set up so it's perfectly comfortable.
Forget about optimal pedalling efficiency, frame geometries and all that other bollicks and just tweak it till its right for you.
Simples.

 

[Andy in Germany]

I've measured the forks for the headset and the measurement seems to come out at 25.4mm. There's a collar as well which makes it 27.3mm.

This seems to be a very unusual size, probably related to the age of the bike. I've found a couple of 25.4mm risers but they quickly go into silly prices, especially for angled/adjustable risers.

Is there a way of getting around this problem? It can't be the first time someone has come across it.