Headset Question

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Chris1983

Senior Member
Hi Folks,

Just got a quick question regarding my headset.
Normally i would do all my own servicing and repairs on my bike, but i have been very busy of late so i paid someone to replace my head set bearings. This is how my bike has come back. but they have assured me that its perfectly fine and acceptable.

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The bearing is proud of the frame and the top cap has had all the seals removed so its totally pointless. its just floating around and rattling between the frame and the stem so surplus to requirement.
This to me is not right, but the company that did it assure me that its fine, they have offered to come and have a look at it next week and said they can fit a new top cap for me. But my question is why have they removed the seals in the first place. and why is the bearing now sticking up so far from the frame.

The original headset was an Acros Unit that had a 7mm Bearing, it looks to me that they have fitted a more standard 8mm bearing and then just thrown all the seals in the bin for some unknown reason.

Whats your thoughts? would you be happy to pay out good money and have your bike returned like this? Maybe i am over reacting, but i'm certainly wishing that i just found the time and fixed it myself now.

Thanks

Chris
 

Rooster1

I was right about that saddle
Errr, no - that's crap.
 
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Chris1983

Senior Member
Glad i'm not the only one that see's and issue with it then. Its booked back on on Tuesday for a review, they have seen the Photo's and i got the impression on the phone that they seemed fine with their workmanship.

I'm also not comfortable with the bearing sitting proud of the frame either, the old bearing never did that, but again, i'm being told its perfectly fine and the contact angles are all correct so there isn't an issue. its just that the new bearing is thicker than the original bearing.

I'm losing more and more faith every time i speak to them to be honest.
 
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Chris1983

Senior Member
I'm not going to name and shame just yet, they have agreed to look at it again next week and supply a new Top Cap FOC.

Would you guys be happy with the bearing sitting proud as well??? it is fully seated so in theory as long as the top cap has a recess to accept the bearing then it should be fine I guess??? or should i insist on a new bearing as well that the correct height for the frame/cup?
 

Milkfloat

An Peanut
Location
Midlands
Not a lot to add. If i went to pick that up from the shop, I would have laughed at them and told them to fix it. I would not have taken the bike out of the shop. That is shocking.
 
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Chris1983

Senior Member
Not a lot to add. If i went to pick that up from the shop, I would have laughed at them and told them to fix it. I would not have taken the bike out of the shop. That is shocking.

The bike was dropped off at my work when i wasn't in. also the stiction from the grease held the top cap in place initially so i didn't notice it immediately
 
Location
Loch side.
I'm not going to name and shame just yet, they have agreed to look at it again next week and supply a new Top Cap FOC.

Would you guys be happy with the bearing sitting proud as well??? it is fully seated so in theory as long as the top cap has a recess to accept the bearing then it should be fine I guess??? or should i insist on a new bearing as well that the correct height for the frame/cup?

I suppose by now you've heard that the job is considered as shocking and bad?

Should the bearing be sitting proud of the head tube?

I don't know and I don't think it is an easy answer. The bearing's height and intended protrusion (or not) is a function of its design. The top cap can be designed to cover a protruding bearing or a flat bearing. Mechanically, as long as the top cap does not bottom out before it starts to compress the bearing (via the conical compression ring around the steerer), it will be sound. However, for aesthetic reasons and water intrusion, it is usually pretty flush and incorporates a seal of sorts.

In other words, all must be correct for it to be as intended.

Luckily you have a Crane Creek headset there. These are good and pretty standard in that Crane Creek publishes dimensions and bearing codes for replacement parts. Go t o the Crane Creek website and see what your headset is supposed to look like and what bearing is supposed to be in there.

Crane Creek bearings have a numerical code.

The variables are:
1) Bearing ID and OD
2) Inner chamfer angle
3) Outer chamfer angle
4) Bearing height.
 

smutchin

Cat 6 Racer
Location
The Red Enclave
Mechanically, as long as the top cap does not bottom out before it starts to compress the bearing (via the conical compression ring around the steerer), it will be sound.

I may be mistaken but it looks to me like the top cap isn't actually doing any compression duty in this setup, which the OP's description seems to confirm:

its just floating around and rattling between the frame and the stem so surplus to requirement.

That can't be right, can it? I thought the stem/spacers were supposed to sit on top of the top cap, which in turn sits on the compression ring, as you describe. I'm sure it's safe to ride with the spacers sitting directly on the compression ring, but there's no protection against water ingress, which is what I would assume to be the main function of the top cap.
 
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Chris1983

Senior Member
Thanks for all the replies guys, its appreciated. At times i can be a anal and over protective of my bikes, which is why i normally like doing all my repair work myself.

Can you get them to come and pick it up right away?

They have offered to pick it up today or tomorrow but the bike is at home and i'm not at the office tomorrow and i want to be here when they are, its not leaving my sight again ;-) so i am happy to wait until Tuesday.
 
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