Headset ....

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BretonM

Well-Known Member
Hello all,
After recently purchasing my bike, I came to the conclusion that a shorter 35mm stem would suit me better than the 50mm stem installed.
I decided on the Hope AM 35mm stem.
I removed the old stem and replaced it with the new one.
The headset was working amazingly before this and I'd never had an issue with knocking.
I stupidly tightened the stem bolts first and then the top cap before taking it for a spin.
Immediately I knew something was up as the whole bike felt loose when using the front brake or pickup up and dropping the front end.
After reading up on the issue, it turns out you must tighten the top cap and then the stem bolts.
I loosened off all bolts tighten the top cap bolt down so movement was smooth but tight.
And then tightened the stem bolts.
However, the issue still remains. I did not drop the fork out or remove and spacers so nothing has gone missing with the headset.
Also, the top of the stem is just 2 or 3mm over the top of the steerer - I have heard this is perfect.
I honestly don't know what I've done wrong ?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
 

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Location
Loch side.
You did it the wrong way round. You have to tighten the top cap first and then the stem. The cop cap's centre bolt is the headset adjustment mechanism. Do as follows.

1) Loosen the stem clamp on the steerer.
2) Sit side-saddle on your bike with one hand on the front brake. Pull the brake.
3) Rock bike gently forwards and backwards with your arse and feel the mechanical knocking of the loose bearings in your body
4) Gently wind up the centre bolt with the allen key bit by bit until the knocking disappears, all the time rocking fowards and backwards against the brake.
5) Once the knocking is gone, stand up and pick the front wheel off the ground and swing the steering left and right (slowly) to make sure it turns freely and there is no bind in the bearing.
6) Now centre the bars and tighten the two clamp bolts on the steerer.
7) Tighten them alternatively and incrementally until they are at the required torque.
8) Drink IPA.
 
OP
OP
BretonM

BretonM

Well-Known Member
You did it the wrong way round. You have to tighten the top cap first and then the stem. The cop cap's centre bolt is the headset adjustment mechanism. Do as follows.

1) Loosen the stem clamp on the steerer.
2) Sit side-saddle on your bike with one hand on the front brake. Pull the brake.
3) Rock bike gently forwards and backwards with your arse and feel the mechanical knocking of the loose bearings in your body
4) Gently wind up the centre bolt with the allen key bit by bit until the knocking disappears, all the time rocking fowards and backwards against the brake.
5) Once the knocking is gone, stand up and pick the front wheel off the ground and swing the steering left and right (slowly) to make sure it turns freely and there is no bind in the bearing.
6) Now centre the bars and tighten the two clamp bolts on the steerer.
7) Tighten them alternatively and incrementally until they are at the required torque.
8) Drink IPA.
Thank you,
Just did this as you said to but the slight knocking still remains.
This is starting to get frustrating now !!
It is most noticeable when riding and lifting the front wheel, when it hits the ground, it feels as if the steerer is loose within the steerer tube.
Any more suggestions ?
 

Jody

Stubborn git
Does the new stem have less height/depth than the old one or is the steerer flush with the top of your new stem. You may need another small spacer to allow it to tighten properly. Take the top cap off without loosening the stem bolts and have a look. Happened to me when I swapped a stem. Needed a 5mm spacer to rectify.
 

Tim Hall

Guest
Location
Crawley
Does the new stem have less height/depth than the old one or is the steerer flush with the top of your new stem. You may need another small spacer to allow it to tighten properly. Take the top cap off without loosening the stem bolts and have a look. Happened to me when I swapped a stem. Needed a 5mm spacer to rectify.
He said the stem is 2-3mm above the steerer, so it's not that.
 
OP
OP
BretonM

BretonM

Well-Known Member
Does the new stem have less height/depth than the old one or is the steerer flush with the top of your new stem. You may need another small spacer to allow it to tighten properly. Take the top cap off without loosening the stem bolts and have a look. Happened to me when I swapped a stem. Needed a 5mm spacer to rectify.
The top of the streerer is about 2mm lower than the top of the stem.
 
Location
Loch side.
The top of the streerer is about 2mm lower than the top of the stem.
Are you sure the cap's insert section into the inside of the stem doesn't make contact with the steerer when you wind it up.? Test it by putting something on there and see, something like wet paint or ...I can't think of anything. Perhaps you can. Point is, it is crucial that the two do not connect and 2mm is very small, too small for my liking. It is quickly taken up.
 
OP
OP
BretonM

BretonM

Well-Known Member
Would this line on the cap prove your theory ??
@Yellow Saddle
 

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rogerzilla

Legendary Member
You can do it for now by removing the top cap altogether, then pushing down on the stem while tightening the pinch bolts. It will look a bit silly without a top cap though.
 
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