That bit of Spain is one of my favourite parts of the world Rich, Gijon is particularly fun, as is Oviedo.
I agree and yet Gijon is often written off as industrial and not worth a visit (as is Aviles, another stunner), it's a fantastic coastline to cycle. My cousin and I are heading to Malaga from Santander June (SW) but I am trying to pursuade him to head along to Gijon and then go south.
Helmets, I don't wear one and it was on here that I first learned that there was a helmet law in Spain, on many proir trips I'd often asked the police for directions and the lack of a helmet was never mentioned.