Hey All..New here - tyre question

[MorbidMonkey]

So i havent been biking since 2010. I had baught a road bike with drop bars. Rode that all over Atlanta. But when i moved i had to leave the bike next to a tree for someone to take. Really sucked but sometimes thats what life dictates. Fast forward to 2 weeks ago. I purchased me a 2020 Trek Fx3 Disc. My first disc brake bike. I kind of like it. Everything about it i have as bone stock. I did add a Bontrager MIK backrack and Double Pannier MIK. Then i had the top bag from Amazon that came with matching panniers but i dont use those.. Not till i get the front rack. And the top bag is just the on the back rack for now as in the pictures. Then i added some Bontrager fenders. For light i added a 500 lumen flashlight.. Really bright and a 100 lumen red light on my helmet. And a clip on for another red light on the rack. Finally i added a really nice phone holder. My ultimate objective is for bikepacking and touring.

So thats the backstory. But i have some concerns. Right now stock these are 700x32.. With the fenders i can got up to 35mm.. 38mm if i take the fenders off. At $70 bucks i have to use them. I cant afford a new set of rims for quite a while. So my question is can i upgrade to 35mm tires using the 32mm stock rims. Or do i have to upgrade rims as well?? They are also supposedly TLR rims but Trek said they arent. Although website clearly shows it in specs. I do plan on getting tubeless and 2nd set of rims but thats alot of money currently. I have a lot of potholes and unpaved shoulders with debris. And if i hit any sand or loose gravel i dig in. What are my options to use with stock rims 700x32 or 35? I need to be able to go down gravel roads not just Rail2Trails. Because theres all crap paved roads with heavy traffic to get to the good paved trails.

 

[Cycleops]

You can use 35c tyres on the stock rims no probs.

 

[Ian H]

TLR rims should have a distinct flat section or 'shelf' either side for the bead of the tyre to sit on, with a well in between. There might be a small ridge inside of the shelf to hold the tyre bead securely.

 

[Spiderweb]

No problem with 35mm or 38mm on those stock rims👍

 

[Ajax Bay]

2020 Trek Fx3 Disc. the [tires] are 700x32. . . . can i upgrade to 35mm tires using the 32mm stock rims. Or do i have to upgrade rims as well?? They are also supposedly TLR rims but Trek said they arent. Although website clearly shows it in specs.

https://www.trekbikes.com/gb/en_GB/bikes/hybrid-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/fx-3-disc/p/28474/
The rims are: Bontrager Tubeless Ready Disc, 32-drilled, presta valve and are said to be 23mm outer, 19.5mm inner width (IRW).
Comment: I doubt the first figure: the difference is well less than 'normal' but their IRW means they're fine for up to 38mm tyres.
Noone "upgrades rims".
Swapping the 32 tyres out for 35s is not an upgrade: it's a change.
When you've worn out the current set of tyres, consider 35s and consider tubeless (the merits and costs of the swap are well discussed in other threads in Cycle Chat).
If the spec says TLR, what do you mean by "Trek say they aren't [TLR]"? {source}
Tubeless ready still means that you have to properly tape the rim.

 

[Dogtrousers]

I don't have anything to add. You'll be fine running 35mm tyres on there.

Nice bike, and to Cyclechat.

Noone "upgrades rims".

Well ... I know what you mean but I've had wheels with rims worn out from rim brakes and I've taken them to the shop and they've put a new rim on for me and kept the old spokes and hub. Does that count as "upgrading rims"

 

[Ajax Bay]

No: it's replacing a rim which is worn out. Though if you went from an Open Elite/Sport to an Open Pro I guess one could call it an upgrade (I wouldn't).
In fact I have just retired a wheel: one of its cups has deteriorated. When I then looked at the rim, it had started going concave (it itself was a replacement in ?2019). So since the spokes had done maybe 25,000km they had progressed too far along their fatigue life for reuse: the whole wheel went to the tip (saving me from unlacing it): its freehub's gone in the 'hub' drawer.

 

[ExBrit]

I don't have anything to add. You'll be fine running 35mm tyres on there.

Nice bike, and to Cyclechat.


Well ... I know what you mean but I've had wheels with rims worn out from rim brakes and I've taken them to the shop and they've put a new rim on for me and kept the old spokes and hub. Does that count as "upgrading rims"

I must be going to the wrong bike shop. Last time my spokes started to pull out from the rim my LBS quoted more to rebuild the wheel with a new rim than it cost me to buy a new wheel from a reputable builder.

MM - nice bike. You're gonna love it. I've ridden around Atlanta a bit and thought the roads were better than most. I assume you mean the one in Georgia. As I recall every other road is called Peach something which was quite confusing.

 

[MorbidMonkey]

Im pretty sure Im gonna go tubeless. And if i dont have to change the rims that a huge cost savings. Im running the stock Rims and tires. 700x32.. I Have the bontrager fenders so max is 38 without fenders and 35 with. My main concern is that these 32''s just arent absorbant enough for the roads im on.. Im in michigan now.. when i rode last i was in atlanta. roads suck here. The way the bike is at 700x32 it feels like im gonna dent the rim just hitting twigs the sixe of my pinky. I want to be able to go down unpaved roads.. Im also out of money as im 1200 into this bike so far. Still havent got a front rack, and the bikepacking gear. BUt for now id like a smoother ride. So my question is this.. Should i keep the rims and just put on a 35mm tire or just stay same size but with a little more meat than slicks? Im planning on going tubeless and id like to go down gravel roads or grass. And these stock tires go nowhere in those conditions.. But on smooth tarmac....these stock 32's fly... I like the low rolling resistance but also need serious puntures/smash resistance.. Whats my cheapest and best option.....

 

[Ajax Bay]

Welcome back to the thread! I've read your reiterated challenging set of conflicting factors with care.
The best and cheapest option is to ride on with the 32s.
I'd be surprised if OEM tyres (assume Bontrager) have "low rolling resistance". "Smash resistance" is dependent on having the right pressures in them. 35s v 32s: no difference in puncture resistance.
You are not going to "dent the rim". If there's a branch an inch think or pothole which you can't avoid, learn to lift and unweight. Unpaved roads? So what? Choose a reasonable gear and ride on.
Share the mass of bike + rider + luggage. What pressures are you rolling (front and rear)?
Going tubeless is doable (but at significant expense (so wear the current 32s out first)) - otherwise fails the 'cheapest' option requirement.

 

[Spiderweb]

As above, what tyre pressure are you running and how much do you weigh?

 

[MorbidMonkey]

I believe Trek aired it up to 70.. I weigh 165 pounds and have about 30 pounds of gear.. Next year ill be running real close to the 300#limit.. After all the food and camping gear. Im in michigan on public roads with only gravel shoulders with start 6 inch from white line. Most of my riding is on smooth pavement. About 80%.. Then rest is the gravel shoulder and very ocassionally a hiking trail with no debris or gravel. I need to shift away towards a 50/50 ride of loose gravel and pavement. As all the routes i need will be farmland roads. But currently im too close to cities to enjoy riding.. Every 1/8th mile i have to stop for some reason or another. If i can take gravel roads i wouldnt have to play with traffic. Got a new seat and that really helps with comfort.. What i meant by low rolling resist.....i meant that when i have skinny road bike tires i can coast alot further.. But when i have mountain bike tires i cant coast as far. As far as dents.. The front tire i can unwieght but the back tire is where all the weight is on the bike. And the back rim has a small wobble in it. I need to learn how to true rims.. It could be a spoke loose. But i think its a dent.. Im averaging about 10 mph right now.. And i estimate when i hit rail trail i should be able to do 14-15 mph average.

 

[Ajax Bay]

I believe Trek aired it up to 70.. 195 lbs / 90kg. Next year ill be running real close to the 300#limit.. After all the food and camping gear. I

Who is "Trek"? When you last pumped them up, what pressures did you put in front/rear? I advise you to consider a trailer if you plan to roll with that weight of gear. With those loads the wider tyre the better, so 35mm wide asap (if that's the widest the frame/mudguards will allow).

 

[Cycleops]

Don't be afraid to try truing that wheel. All you need is a spoke key and a zip tie. Vids on YouTube.
As Ajax says might be worth investing in a trailer or a pair of stronger wheels.

 

[MorbidMonkey]

Trek is the company that made the bike. They have local Trek stores.. Thought about a trailer. But past my budget right now. Besides the trailers are wider and i have to ride on the road currently... Cant do that around here with one. But when i do my cross state ride i will use one. What im doing right now is getting the equipment needed. With the bags and panniers i put about 60 pounds of weights.. Since i haven't rode in years i need to get my legs comfortable with the weight i will be doing when i tour. Im a little concerned when all the youtube video i see it looks like people are moving at like 25 mph.. I can do an average of 10. 15 if no lights or crosswalks. For me to get my bike to 20, builds to much lactic acid in my legs. The touring im gonna be doing isnt scripted with hotels and time schedules.... Doing hobo touring..