Hey guys, can you tell me which racing bike is the best among these?
- Thread starter Raphael
- Start date
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Gerry Attrick
Lincolnshire Mountain Rescue Consultant
Hi Raphael, welcome to the forum.
Your topic is one of the most frequently asked questions, "which bike is best?" Now I cannot rank the bikes you have listed because I have no experience of those makes and models, and if what I am about to say is unacceptable to you, then feel free to ignore me.
The fact is that at the price level you are aiming, you would be far better off looking to pay the same for a good used bike. Sound road bikes are expensive beasts if you are to get quality components, frame and forks. You don't say whether this is your irst bike or whether you are moving over from a mountain bike or whatever. It would also be useful to know what you are intending to use the bike for. For example commuting, school, leisure/fitness/racing. Where are you going to use it? Purely on surfaced roads or occasional trips on tracks, towpaths etc.
Give us a little more information and we will be happy to advise.
Your topic is one of the most frequently asked questions, "which bike is best?" Now I cannot rank the bikes you have listed because I have no experience of those makes and models, and if what I am about to say is unacceptable to you, then feel free to ignore me.
The fact is that at the price level you are aiming, you would be far better off looking to pay the same for a good used bike. Sound road bikes are expensive beasts if you are to get quality components, frame and forks. You don't say whether this is your irst bike or whether you are moving over from a mountain bike or whatever. It would also be useful to know what you are intending to use the bike for. For example commuting, school, leisure/fitness/racing. Where are you going to use it? Purely on surfaced roads or occasional trips on tracks, towpaths etc.
Give us a little more information and we will be happy to advise.
e-rider
Banned member
- Location
- South West
If you have little knowledge of bicycles then buying secondahnd is risky - you could end up with a real piece of junk (I've seen many people do it)
However, it appears that you want to spend about £200.
You will not get a good new road bike for that price. If you buy new you'll need to spend £400 absolute minimum (£600 would be better)
3 options
1. increase your budget
2. buy secondhand
3. forget the road bike, and buy a hydrid commuter or mtb for £250+ (look at: specialized, kona, trek and giant)
However, it appears that you want to spend about £200.
You will not get a good new road bike for that price. If you buy new you'll need to spend £400 absolute minimum (£600 would be better)
3 options
1. increase your budget
2. buy secondhand
3. forget the road bike, and buy a hydrid commuter or mtb for £250+ (look at: specialized, kona, trek and giant)
oldgreyandslow
Guru
- Location
- Farnborough
I had a claud butler criterium years ago, before I knew about the wonders of ergo levers! It was OK then, 531 frame, alu rims, 14 speed shimano, perfect for my return to two wheels, however I soon wanted something better and even managed to sell it on.
No idea what the current criteriums are like but it was OK back then, mind you a it was a fair old time ago.
No idea what the current criteriums are like but it was OK back then, mind you a it was a fair old time ago.
cyberknight
As long as I breathe, I attack.
- Location
- Land of confusion
Yes i would advise trying to squeeze another £100 ish if you can withot knowing what to buy you can get stung second hand.
Do not forget the Decathlon bikes and carrera bikes ,great value bikes.
Both these bikes have had good reviews from CC members
http://www.decathlon...54-57-69567468/
£269
http://www.halfords....tegoryId_165710
£349
Or ..
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/..._productId_787367_langId_-1_categoryId_165710
£299
I have the Carrera but if i had known about the decathlon bike i would have bought that as it is a very similar spec for £100 less.
threebikesmcginty
Corn Fed Hick...
- Location
- ...on the slake
If you're not bothered about gears you could get an Edinburgh Bike Coop Revolution for a shade over £200 - meant to be good too.
http://www.edinburgh...5c018333c018336
http://www.edinburgh...5c018333c018336
jay clock
Massive member
- Location
- Hampshire UK
CycleDazza
New Member
- Location
- Manchester
Hi Raphael,. I just seen your message. I have just myself signed up on this site..
All I can say is your message.. I recently wasted £200 on a Viking bike. My main bike is a 2nd hand Hybrid used be a Co-op revoultion which I use daily. Anyway, I wanted up my level in Cycling & looked at Viking Road bike. The one I went out bought is Viking Sprint 14sp.. I wish I never did...basically it looked great (Lime Green).. but looked more closer it was rubbish.
I have only been round street on it.. and not use I intended ..(Ie. Join a Club and do some serious Road cycling on it)..
If knew wasn't great would looked at some other brand. Now I don't know if all Viking bikes are same! but this one was rubbish be honest..
Regards
Daz.
P.s I can send you Pics of original if want?
All I can say is your message.. I recently wasted £200 on a Viking bike. My main bike is a 2nd hand Hybrid used be a Co-op revoultion which I use daily. Anyway, I wanted up my level in Cycling & looked at Viking Road bike. The one I went out bought is Viking Sprint 14sp.. I wish I never did...basically it looked great (Lime Green).. but looked more closer it was rubbish.
I have only been round street on it.. and not use I intended ..(Ie. Join a Club and do some serious Road cycling on it)..
If knew wasn't great would looked at some other brand. Now I don't know if all Viking bikes are same! but this one was rubbish be honest..
Regards
Daz.
P.s I can send you Pics of original if want?
biggs682
Itching to get back on my bike's
- Location
- Northamptonshire
as usual i would recomend 2nd hand at that budget
Ok... I know this is an old string of posts, but have to ask how you've all formed these opinions on bikes under £500? I own a variety of road, MTB and BMX bikes, and whilst I will agree to generalise that the more you pay, the better quality components you get, I just cant agree with most of the comments here about spending a minimum of $500. Now... even though it's 2013 and the Viking sprint was 2011 or earlier, I have just bought one as my cheap winter exercise and commute bike, and frankly, I am very pleased with it!
I think many people are getting confused about the differences between technology that is older and more basic, versus poor quality parts. Fact is all drive train is a smooth and more than adequate, but basic, shimano SIS units (front and back) and have experienced nothing but smooth riding so far. OK, the handlebars are steel, the pedals that came with the bike were cheap plastic and the bike has old style road levers with separate shifters, but given the entry level integrated shifters and levers start at £200 for a decent set, and given I have no need for this feature (as my arms work quite well at using more than one set of levers) I cannot agree at all that this results in a poor quality bike that can be viewed as nothing but a waste of money as has been stated previously on here.
The frame is solid, riding geometry seems to be a mix of traditional road and Tri, but if anything, I find that a faster more efficient ride.
I am glad I ignored all the posts about cheap bikes and used my own experience and common sense in sourcing a bike based on it's specification versus price, rather than general preconceptions versus expense.
I thought I'd post this for anyone else considering purchasing one of the many old/new stocks still on the market who wants some positive, objective advice on what I look for;
1 shimano or Sram drivetrain. on cheaper bikes you often end up with an unbranded cheap far eastern drive train. Make sure it's shimano or Sram as even their basic older models will suffice for anything other than the hardened road racer or those who want to look like they are a hardened road racer.
2 Understand that Basic does not mean it's rubbish, it means that the manufacturer used simple design and probably pressed steel as opposed to individually CNC'd parts. Ask yourself, do I need to spend another £250 so that I can have parts that, other than a few grams in weight & a better appearance, will make little difference to my required ride?
3 when comparing bikes, actually line the specs up side by side, so you can ascertain value for money. Frankly this is just as important as overall price
4 look for a decently made frame with neat welds and a straight frame geometry (either alloy or steel or chromeoly - depending on preference) and, for the sub £200 price range, I would consider steel forks so that you know they'll stand up to your riding. all other components can be changed easily over time, as your budget or riding levels increase.
Anyway, this is my opinion... I also have a specialised Allez and other that the weight and integrated shifter/levers, there's really no difference in my ride each day. Up to the individual if you take heed or not, but I have both the 600 quid bike, and the 170 quid bike, and if anything I am left wondering why I spent £600 in the first place.
I think many people are getting confused about the differences between technology that is older and more basic, versus poor quality parts. Fact is all drive train is a smooth and more than adequate, but basic, shimano SIS units (front and back) and have experienced nothing but smooth riding so far. OK, the handlebars are steel, the pedals that came with the bike were cheap plastic and the bike has old style road levers with separate shifters, but given the entry level integrated shifters and levers start at £200 for a decent set, and given I have no need for this feature (as my arms work quite well at using more than one set of levers) I cannot agree at all that this results in a poor quality bike that can be viewed as nothing but a waste of money as has been stated previously on here.
The frame is solid, riding geometry seems to be a mix of traditional road and Tri, but if anything, I find that a faster more efficient ride.
I am glad I ignored all the posts about cheap bikes and used my own experience and common sense in sourcing a bike based on it's specification versus price, rather than general preconceptions versus expense.
I thought I'd post this for anyone else considering purchasing one of the many old/new stocks still on the market who wants some positive, objective advice on what I look for;
1 shimano or Sram drivetrain. on cheaper bikes you often end up with an unbranded cheap far eastern drive train. Make sure it's shimano or Sram as even their basic older models will suffice for anything other than the hardened road racer or those who want to look like they are a hardened road racer.
2 Understand that Basic does not mean it's rubbish, it means that the manufacturer used simple design and probably pressed steel as opposed to individually CNC'd parts. Ask yourself, do I need to spend another £250 so that I can have parts that, other than a few grams in weight & a better appearance, will make little difference to my required ride?
3 when comparing bikes, actually line the specs up side by side, so you can ascertain value for money. Frankly this is just as important as overall price
4 look for a decently made frame with neat welds and a straight frame geometry (either alloy or steel or chromeoly - depending on preference) and, for the sub £200 price range, I would consider steel forks so that you know they'll stand up to your riding. all other components can be changed easily over time, as your budget or riding levels increase.
Anyway, this is my opinion... I also have a specialised Allez and other that the weight and integrated shifter/levers, there's really no difference in my ride each day. Up to the individual if you take heed or not, but I have both the 600 quid bike, and the 170 quid bike, and if anything I am left wondering why I spent £600 in the first place.
