Hills will be the death of me!

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There are limits, such as when you're in 1st gear on a mountain bike climbing a rough track and the front wheel starts to lift ... so you rebalance over the handlebars ... and the rear wheel starts to spin instead.
Get off and push time. :blush:
 
Location
Pontefract
We're not talking high precision car engine parts here, just lovely simple bikes.

Some would have you believe otherwise, by changing the rear sprockets you could if in an hilly area and on a 7sp go with lower gears but then you lose the down hill, I did find that if you go 13/16 for the high gears its a jump but you will be going down hill, you could have in the low end, 34/28/24/21/18/15/13 bit of a gap at the bottom and a 26 at the front, should get you up almost any hill, although it might be slow. When I got my bike 4 years ago, the lowest ratio was 1:1.15 with the 26/34 its as low 1:0.76 ratios, though I find that a little low for me now, well round here. (just need to work on staying power up the hill)
Then when more use to the hills increase the gearing.
 

GrasB

Veteran
Location
Nr Cambridge
We're not talking high precision car engine parts here, just lovely simple bikes.
Actually I've got hub bearings which make the factory tolerances on most car engined look like sloppy guesses :tongue:

Anyway to the OP the only way to don't get killed by hills is training your self. For most the easiest way is to climb the steepest toughest inclines you can find.
 
Actually I've got hub bearings which make the factory tolerances on most car engined look like sloppy guesses :tongue:

I've got hub bearings on my trek, very surprised how free running they are compared to balls and cones.
I look to see the heaviest part of the wheel (valve area) settling itself towards the floor when checking
wheels. (Unless there's a reflector as well).

P.S: I've got more chain inside my v8 car engine than the local bike shop has in stock. ^_^
 

Hip Priest

Veteran
My advice is to control your speed and not try to 'get it over with' too quickly.

A few months ago I rode up a long, reasonably steep climb at about 10-11mph, but had to stop twice to catch my breath before continuing. When I did the same route a week later on a sportive, I noticed that most riders were doing it at about 7-8mph, so I stayed at that pace and got up the hill with energy to spare.

Once you're fit, you can start 'attacking' hills, but getting up them without stopping or walking is enough of a target for beginners.
 

Davehateshills

Senior Member
Location
Bury, Lancashire
Have a look at the ride I did this morning. Keep in mind that I have only been back in to cycling for about 5 weeks and that my name is Davehateshills.

Route 20 miles with 1,075ft of climbing

20/08/12 - 1hr 49min avg speed 10.7mph - stopped and walked up the steep bits http://app.strava.com/rides/19148672
06/09/12 - 1hr 35min avg speed 12.6mph - no stopping on any hills http://app.strava.com/rides/21030174

Now, I have changed my bike between rides and my new bike doesn't have a granny ring on so I was a bit nervous doing this route again but just try to get a rhythm going and stick with it, before you know it your at the top. Good luck and keep at it.
 
Location
Pontefract
My advice is to control your speed and not try to 'get it over with' too quickly.


Once you're fit, you can start 'attacking' hills, but getting up them without stopping or walking is enough of a target for beginners.

Totally agree, the first achievement is getting up, what you thought impossible.
Actually I've got hub bearings which make the factory tolerances on most car engined look like sloppy guesses :tongue:

Ok but like it was said, most simple bikes, and whilst tolerances can be high, it doesnt make the technology, hi-tech.

I was thinking the other day, that linking up a computer to your ideal cadence range and electronically shifting gears to keep within that range, now thats getting hi-tech, but still not really that complex, just having the kit or the time and money to do it.
 
Location
Pontefract
Have a look at the ride I did this morning. Keep in mind that I have only been back in to cycling for about 5 weeks and that my name is Davehateshills.

Route 20 miles with 1,075ft of climbing

20/08/12 - 1hr 49min avg speed 10.7mph - stopped and walked up the steep bits http://app.strava.com/rides/19148672
06/09/12 - 1hr 35min avg speed 12.6mph - no stopping on any hills http://app.strava.com/rides/21030174

Now, I have changed my bike between rides and my new bike doesn't have a granny ring on so I was a bit nervous doing this route again but just try to get a rhythm going and stick with it, before you know it your at the top. Good luck and keep at it.
Nice one and 7 P.R.'s to boot.
 

KateK

Well-Known Member
Location
cambridgeshire
I had a long hill that I dreaded and used to have to stop half way up everytime because I just couldn't breathe anymore. I carried on trying because I knew it would help in the long run. Three things got me up it in the end 1) I got a bike with ten gears instead of five (!) 2) I happened to go up behind a really slow bloke and realised that actually I could go a lot slower; and 3) one day two lovebirds had parked their car and were snogging in the place that I usually stopped - so I had to just go on.
Once I knew I could do it it was fine....of course now I'm trying to keep a better cadence...and then I'll want to do more than 9mph at the top...and then...well it will always be difficult.
 

mrandmrspoves

Middle aged bald git.
Location
Narfuk
.....couldn't possibly comment I live in Norfolk so my idea of a hill is probably a gentle slope!

But as until recently I weighed over 15 stone, even a gentle incline was a challenge. My advice - focus a few feet in front of you (far enough to see where you're going) but don't look at the full length of the hill. Secondly, keep a good pedaling rhythm going - once you slow down it's always just a drag.
....and of course look at how much weight you're dragging up the hill and plan to reduce it if you can. (Either your excess weight, your bikes excess weight, or your luggage and general paraphernalia.
 

GrasB

Veteran
Location
Nr Cambridge
I was thinking the other day, that linking up a computer to your ideal cadence range and electronically shifting gears to keep within that range, now thats getting hi-tech, but still not really that complex, just having the kit or the time and money to do it.
Er not quite... you also need a way to measure perceived effort. Your preferred cadence range will shift with your power output. For instance at 50w my preferred cadence is 50-75rpm at 400w it's 110-150rpm. Also may need to factor is the slope you're climbing, this will lower your preferred cadence for a given power output.
 

Saluki

World class procrastinator
My OH is having a new cassette fitted on his bike, as I type. He says that he is really pants up hills and often needs to stop and rest. Its the T of B challenge ride tomorrow and he doesn't want to disgrace himself up any of the (little) hills. To be fair, he is just over 99kg (thats about 15 stone 10 in old money) and getting lighter by the week, this is not helping much with the hills.
He has learned to go at his own pace rather than keep up with me. I am pants at hills too, just lighter and a bit stronger. If I can get to the top of a hilly bit and still be over about 8mph, I am a happy woman. If I don't have to wait so long for hubby, I am much happier.
BTW, going clipless was the best thing ever in helping get up hills.
 
Location
Pontefract
Er not quite... you also need a way to measure perceived effort. Your preferred cadence range will shift with your power output. For instance at 50w my preferred cadence is 50-75rpm at 400w it's 110-150rpm. Also may need to factor is the slope you're climbing, this will lower your preferred cadence for a given power output.
I am not a mathematical genius (or even very good) but is there not a relationship between cadence and power, you say (and I am taking the extremes here, its for others better than me to work it out) but at 50w your cadence is 50 (i did say extreme figures I know it varies) and at 400w its 150 well 50-150 cadence is 3x and 50 to 400 is 50 double 3x i.e 50-100-200-400, just an example from your figures, so surly this wouldn't be too difficult to work out. I know there's more to it.
 
I'm sure most people will disagree with me here but I'll stick my two pennies worth in anyway........I think climbing hills is almost purely psychological. As a newbie I openly admit I'm poor at hill climbing in terms of technique and speed, but I'm NOT afraid of them. My approach is this: just do it- I don't care how fast or how long it takes me to climb it so long as I get up it- that's the psychological barrier broken. Then I can go back to that climb not thinking "oh god another hill" but more rather " I've done this already so let's see if I can do it a little quicker".

For me, it's winning the mental game. The speed comes with time, fitness and experience.

Just my thoughts on it anyway!
 
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