How to adjust V-Brakes?

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

SAB

Active Member
It seems much easier than actually doing the job 'right', but I'm struggling to adjust the v-brakes on me and my girlfriends bikes.

The handles need pulled in far too much, tried the barrel adjustment which improves it a bit but it feels like its not going to be very secure over the long term.

Wondering where the best place to learn this is, like a YouTube video or step by step guide aimed at beginners?

We have multitools, pliers and all but not a vast range of tools - is a multi tool enough to do this sort of adjustment?

thanks
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
There are 2 sets of paired convex/concave washers, both sets must be used but as 1 pair is thicker than the other they can be swapped over so the thicker pair is closest to the pad surface which throws the pad closer to the rim. If yours are already that way round you may need new pads though.

306-408.jpg
 

shouldbeinbed

Rollin' along
Location
Manchester way
If they are too far away from the rim then moving the components that go on the bolt may not be enough.

Youtube or Park Tools website are both good sources of how to videos.

My way of doing them.

Set your brake barrel adjusters to about half way maybe a bit more tight - this depends on how far you like to pull your brake levers when set, so is a bit trial and error the first time you do it.

Also check out the little grub screw at the base of each brake arm, these fine tune the centering of the brakes beside the rim when everything else is set up, good idea to have them ready with a bit of adjustment either way before you start setting up the rest.

Slacken off the cable nut at the top of the V arm to let the cable run free through it.

Let the arms fall back and clean up the pad surfaces if they need it.

Hold both arms to the rim, ensuring the pads are contacting surfaces flat & just the rim, not below it in free air or rubbing at the tyre above.

Ideally you need 3 hands here but 2 will cope in the right sequence.
pinch the top of both brake arms in one hand to hold the blocks in place to the rim.
Pull the cable through and tight. IME pliers do well, but carefully on the cable structure, butt the pliers up to the brake arm with th cable retaining bolt so that these hold the arms tight in place with the cable also sorted then tighten up the retaining bolt to hold the cable tight.

You can now slacken off the barrel adjuster to suit your braking preference.

You will also need to 'toe in' your brake blocks. The front of the pads should be fractionally (1mm or so is is enough) closer to the rim than the rear.
Exaggerated angle but like this: / | \ pad - wheel - pad with the front of the bike at the top.

This helps braking as the front of the pad hits the rim 1st and the wheel momentum helps pull the rest of the pad onto the rim, assisting braking and stopping the brakes squealing as they grip.

Last thing to consider is those little grub screws at the base of each V brake arm. If everything else is set right and your brake springs are working ok you shouldn't need to adjust these but they are there if you do.

Edit: Too much difference may well suggest your brake arm springs are not located into the same hole on the frame brake boss(*) or springs are past it and you need new ones.
(*) this should be apparent when you slacken the cable off at first on how far they fall back from the rim.

No doubt people will come along with variations or tell you I'm just plain wrong but this works for me and is intended only as suggestion to help you suss out your favoured method not instruction.
 
Last edited:

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
I broadly do as @shouldbeinbed when adjusting v-brakes albeit slightly easier imo.

I tend to release the cable from the brake, then wind the barrel adjuster all the way out though. Then I pull the arms right up against the wheel, at this point you can adjust the pad position so that when they pull to the rim they are in the right position, you will need to adjust each pad independently.

Next, with the arms pulled together so the pads are tight against the wheel I pull the cable through and lock it in place so that it holds the pads in the right place, you can usually do this with one hand holding the arms and the other for turning the allen key. If you do this right, you won't be able to turn the wheel at all in this position, and the pads should be perfectly in place. If not you can go back and adjust it.

Finally, loosen the barrel adjuster so that you get the desired amount of lever pull and you should get the setup perfect every time. How far you unwind it depends entirely on how you like the feel of your brakes. Personally I like my braking action to be quick, so I don't unwind it that far, but if you want more modulation you can loosen further.

It usually takes me less than 5 minutes per brake to adjust and get setup right when putting new cables or pads on. If I'm just adjusting them because the pads have worn/or the cable has stretched it takes me about a minute.
 

Shalesearcher

Regular
Location
Leicester
I have similar problem, but the brake pads are moulded onto the post, which is splined and is locked against a splined washer.. How far should these posts be set away from wheel?
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Sorry, they're v brakes, not cantilever...
Never seen those, are the adjustment slots on the caliper parallel to the rims or at right angles.
 

Shalesearcher

Regular
Location
Leicester

Attachments

  • IMG_20171128_131812.jpg
    IMG_20171128_131812.jpg
    77.2 KB · Views: 34
  • IMG_20171128_131929.jpg
    IMG_20171128_131929.jpg
    122.6 KB · Views: 41

raleighnut

Legendary Member
These....
Very early design, what you need to do is set the length of 'post' so that the 2 arms do not run out of travel before the pads contact (where the 'noodle' hits the steel bit it connects into.) Later designs had 2 sets of mating convex/concave washers (a thin pair and a thicker pair) but they only give 2 different possibilities, at least with that set-up you have incremental adjustment.
 

Shalesearcher

Regular
Location
Leicester
Very early design, what you need to do is set the length of 'post' so that the 2 arms do not run out of travel before the pads contact (where the 'noodle' hits the steel bit it connects into.) Later designs had 2 sets of mating convex/concave washers (a thin pair and a thicker pair) but they only give 2 different possibilities, at least with that set-up you have incremental adjustment.

Do the posts need to be symmetrical length when set..?
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Do the posts need to be symmetrical length when set..?
I would say so however seeing your other thread about adjusting them there may be other underlying problems elsewhere, sticky cable etc.

I'd take the whole lot off and check it thoroughly then reassemble with new 'cantilever' type pads and at least a new inner cable. Make sure you put either grease or (better) Copaslip on the pivot pins too.

BTW if you're in Leicester the best place for that kind of spare is Bob Warner Cycles, just behind the railway station.
 

Shalesearcher

Regular
Location
Leicester
Think I replaced the inner cable with a gear cable, nipple we a v poor fit, gonna get a brake cable.. (my error) Are these the right pads? As you mentioned cantilever as apposed to V brakes?
 
Top Bottom