How to remove disk brakes?

[clumsycyclist]

I'm sorry if this was already asked, I just had a very hard day so too tired to read all and I kinda in need help.

Okay so here is my problem. I brought a new bike and it seems that it's not well adjusted. In fact the front brakes (which are disk brakes) were slightly pressing against the disk when released so that I was always slowed down.

I tried to repair it and it make the thing only worse. Now I checked on the internet and all I see is video telling me to take off the wheel. I can't take off the wheel, I wouldn't be able to put it back... Can I just take off the front brakes for now without taking off the wheel? I need to do like 14 km to the nearest bike shop.

Thank you for all your answers.

 

[clumsycyclist]

What is wrong with my question? I would kinda need it fast by the way :/

 

[Mr Haematocrit]

Are the brakes hydraulic or cable?
What bike is it?
What did you do to make things worse?

 

[Cubist]

Easier and safer to align the caliper. It will be held on by two 5 mm bolts to the fork or to a mounting bracket. Loosen these with a hex key so that the caliper moves from side to side easily, then squeeze the brake lever. This will put the caliper central over the rotor. Keeping the lever squeezed, tighten the hex bolts alternating half a turn at a time.
Then ride to have it checked.

 

[Cubist]

What is wrong with my question? I would kinda need it fast by the way :/

You post on a UK based forum at midnight and expect an answer in 20 minutes?

 

[phil-b]

I had the same problem on my hydraulic disc break. there are some good videos on youtube that help.

one quick fix is to loosen the break then pull the lever to close the break on the disk and with the break on tighten the break back onto the frame. this will centralise the break.

 

[uclown2002]

I had the same problem on my hydraulic disc break. there are some good videos on youtube that help.

one quick fix is to loosen the break then pull the lever to close the break on the disk and with the break on tighten the break back onto the frame. this will centralise the break.

It's brake!

I might have let one go but not six!

 

[screenman]

If you do not know what you are doing then the brakes should be the last thing to play with.

 

[shouldbeinbed]

What is wrong with my question? I would kinda need it fast by the way :/

Hi, welcome aboard, I'm guessing American/Canadian?

you'll need to give more information to get help and for a fast answer you'd need to remember, as Cubist says, this is a predominantly UK site, check the time differences and aim for asking around 6-10PM London time (6-2 hours earlier than your original post) for most people being home from work but not yet asleep.

Have a google for Park Tools maintenance videos or Sheldon Brown's site - they're goldmines of useful info, but brakes are not one for amateur fiddling and hoping for the best, if you have tried and made them worse then I would suggest you get more experienced help in to look at them or drive/get a lift to the bike shop, and look over their shoulder whilst they're fixing it and talk with them.

 

[Cubist]

If you do not know what you are doing then the brakes should be the last thing to play with.

[QUOTE 2971496, member: 45"]If it's new, take it back and get the shop to sort it out.[/quote]
To be fair, centring a brake caliper is possibly the easiest task to carry out, and some models notoriously need it doing every ride. It was the first thing I ever adjusted in my modern era cycling rennaissence.

OK, I wouldn't advocate bleeding, piston seal swapping or hose shortening to a novice, but loosening two bolts, squeezing a lever and doing them up again isn't exactly inertial electrostatic confinement.....

 

[Cubist]

Are all models that easy? I have Avids that are but I have seen other designs that are more complicated.

Most hydraulic brakes really are that simple. Hope tend to need more intricate initial setting up, needing careful shimming to make sure the caliper is properly aligned fore and set, and the pistons set properly. Avids are fitted using cone washers and tend to be a bit of a faff. The ones on my Boardman were a constant source of irritatio, tending to rub a lot, and needing constant adjustment.
Servo wave Shimano brakes have more clearance between pad and rotor, so once set up are more maintenance free.

Mechanical disc brakes need clearance adjusting as the pads wear, and so are not as simple as the method described.

 

[02GF74]

Looks like he/she has gone away in a huff due to non-immediate response.

 

[phil-b]

It's brake!

I might have let one go but not six!

Oh please give me a brake

 

[TheDoctor]

Looks like he/she has gone away in a huff due to non-immediate response.

Struggling to care about that!!
Since we don't know if it's cable or hydraulic, let alone what model of brake or bike, it's hard to see what assistance we could give. Other than 'Go to the bike shop. And if you can't even get the front wheel off, FFS leave the brakes alone!'