How to soften up a Brooks plank (saddle)

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Globalti

Legendary Member
Yes, my bike came with one of those; it was very comfortable from day 1 though I swopped it for something lighter.
 
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philepo

philepo

Veteran
I got one about 5 years back and the indent marks did not appear for several thousand miles. And I think letting it get wet helped.

However I got it very comfy very fast by following a tip off a forumite called George White who gave me the attached advice. ...... His technique worked a treat and it has now done several thousand km. The product I used was called Flexalan.

here is the text......
Are you sitting comfortably?
..... Now place the saddle on a folded towel on the floor. If this could be between two chairs which could offer support it would be fine. Now lift up the wings so that they do not press down on the floor and impede the downward movement of the leather. While doing this step onto the saddle with your stocking foot and begin to push down on the saddle. Push down hard and repeatedly, and continue to do so moving from end to end of the saddle ensuring that the wings remain raised. You will find that in a relatively short time that the saddle will flex and become supple.

Thanks for the advice but this sounds way too extreme, are you sure jumping up and down doesn't ruin a saddle?
I will prob leave mine as is as it isn't painful, just not comfortable. Maybe I will leave it out in the rain!
 

jay clock

Massive member
Location
Hampshire UK
I am not generally a fan of old fashioned stuff and am not a Brooks evangelist. The treatment I described above takes a short time and made my Brooks very very comfy. The jumping up and down is just a bit of mild pressure!
 

Globalti

Legendary Member
The process starts when choosing your saddle. No, one B17 is not the same as another B17, nor is one Team Professional the same as another Team Professional. Brooks’ quality control is so abysmal that the thickness of the leather used can vary from 3.5mm to 6 or 7mm. This makes a huge difference in the degree of softening which can be achieved and the time taken to achieve it. It once took me two years to work out why one Team Pro was so much softer than another bought at the same time. So—in the shop look for the saddle with the thinnest leather, it could save you a lot of work. Next visit your local saddler and buy a tin of “Hydrophane”. This is a leather dressing which softens and makes waterproof. I like to gently heat the saddle to 70degreesC as I feel this allows the leather to absorb the dressing more easily but this is not mandatory. Using a small, soft brush, carefully apply the dressing to the underside of the saddle. Be patient and apply one coat at a time. Keep a sharp eye on the topside of the saddle and stop immediately you see any stain soak through. Some darkening can take place and can provide an attractive weathered appearance but be careful as too much can remove the polished finish on the topside. Make sure you cover around the rivets, as this is where cracks appear with age. Take time between coats and ensure you see the results of one coat before applying another. When this is to your satisfaction begin to work the wings of the saddle up and down until they move easily. They should loosen up quite quickly to the point that they can be raised up level with the seat of the saddle. Now place the saddle on a folded towel on the floor. If this could be between two chairs which could offer support it would be fine. Now lift up the wings so that they do not press down on the floor and impede the downward movement of the leather. While doing this step onto the saddle with your stocking foot and begin to push down on the saddle. Push down hard and repeatedly, and continue to do so moving from end to end of the saddle ensuring that the wings remain raised. You will find that in a relatively short time that the saddle will flex and become supple. Again, in a relatively short time you will be gasping and short of breath, but hey, no method is perfect. Remember, the longer you spend treating the saddle in this way the more comfortable it becomes. From time to time flex the wings also until ultimately the saddle depresses easily under the pressure of your palm. Make sure it does so from the rear to the toe. While this process will waterproof your saddle I would still cover it at the first sign of rain. A comfortable saddle is a precious thing and not to be risked. A light smear of “Proofhide” and there you are, you have successfully conditioned your saddle.

So you fold up the bracing sides and press on the medieval saddle with a foot? How is that different from riding it wet so that it stretches to fit your bum?

I'd rather just fit a Charge Spoon or Knife and not need to worry about rain. Once they have sagged they are extremely comfortable as I remember from having one in about 1965 but a new Brooks saddle is torture, I bought a Swift and was shocked at the weight and the crudeness of the construction as well as the discomfort so I sold it straight on.
 

jay clock

Massive member
Location
Hampshire UK
Nice to have a thread resurrected 6 years later! It was me who suggested the oiling process above. As @Globalti says Charge Spoons are also great - I now have four plus still got the B17
 
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philepo

philepo

Veteran
Nice to have a thread resurrected 6 years later! It was me who suggested the oiling process above. As @Globalti says Charge Spoons are also great - I now have four plus still got the B17

Yes, I came back to ask about updating to 10 speeds as I am in the mood for tinkering and I thought "I wonder what I've asked before..."
Unfortunately I disagree with the short cuts to Brooks comfort, it just needs patience (the only 'treatment' I'd entertain is perhaps riding while its wet, but not the extreme "soak it in engine oil until blah blah" nonsense type stuff.
I had a quick look at the Charge Spoon. This has a couple of huge design flaws imho: The material appears to be swede (or effect) and this is higher friction than polished leather. And the stitching is where your inside thigh rubs up and down. This is what the original saddle on my bike was like and it damaged my work trousers' stitching around the seams (chaffing)... The Brooks just works for me. On a final note, the Spoon saddle is offered with Chamois creme... urrrrrghhhhh the indignity
Having said that the quality control at Brooks is poor (= handmade but very quickly!) so buy from a shop so you can check its not a duffer.
 
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taximan

senex crepitu iuvenis cordi esse
Way back in 1965 I bought myselfe a brand new Sun Snipe which was fitted with a Brooks B17. 50 years and a number of bikes later I noticed that the saddle had started to split around the rivets and decided that it was time for it to be retired. As my cycling has to be done on a budget I did not feel that I could justify spending £70 quid or so and settled instead for the cheaper 'Spa' .My first impression is that the saddle is every bit as good as the B17 but may be a little heavier. So far I have only covered about 100 miles on it so it is early days yet but ooooh its hard on my bum. :cry:
 
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philepo

philepo

Veteran
I hope it works out. However, a work friend got one of those and it never 'broke in' as the leather was too thick... Perhaps a ready broken Brooks would be an idea?
 

taximan

senex crepitu iuvenis cordi esse
Just a quick update. I have now covered about 700 miles on my Spa saddle and to be truthful, I began to regret buying it but I persevered and now I am delighted with it.
 
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