Hybrid for longer distance riding

[MikeW-71]

Dropping the tyre size to a 28mm or 32mm slick will make a difference.

 

[HovR]

If you're wanting to start riding longer distances on your Apollo, check the bearings out first. As Apollo bikes are cheap, they have to cut costs in places, and this often includes wheel bearings, which can slow you down dramatically if adjusted wrong.

Take the front wheel off and try to spin the axle (not the quick release skewer, if you have one) by hand. Ideally when you do this the bearings will feel smooth and you will encounter little resistance. Repeat for the back wheel. If the axle is hard to turn by hand at all, then it's slowing you down and you should look in to either servicing your hubs, or if the hubs are past servicing, think about the possibility of a new bike if you're really getting in to the sport!

 

[vickster]

There is some evidence to suggest that thin tyres don't roll as well as thicker tyres

http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/06/13/bicycle-quarterly-performance-of-tires/

The article is talking about road bikes on 20mm-25mm, this is old news hence pros now using 25mm rubber. I doubt the OP will be able to put 20-23mm roadbike tyres on a bike currently wearing 35mm tyres, so it's not applicable. A 28mm will be an improvement especially if on knobblies at the mo

I'd take the article with a pinch of salt though as they can't even spell tyre

 

[MarkF]

Done 1000+ mile trips on a Spesh Sirrus & a Dawes Discovery, bar ends were all I added. Former has 32mm's, the latter, 35mm's, I can't tell the difference.

 

[I like Skol]

Done 1000+ mile trips on a Spesh Sirrus & a Dawes Discovery, bar ends were all I added. Former has 32mm's, the latter, 35mm's, I can't tell the difference.

This^^^^^^

Tread pattern and tyre pressure are more important than size. I run 35c tyres on my hybrid and do not feel it is any handicap compared to my 23c shod road bike.

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

Yes, it is a broad term, I wasn't sure of the lingo, I suppose cheapo hybrid would be a better term.

My response was a bit strong perhaps. Not having a go at you - just the ire coming out caused by those marketing men who lump 4 or 5 different types of bike together because they can't be bothered to market them properly, but then want to create a new niche every time a new mountain bike fork with different travel comes out.

OK, I'm being rather overambitious, I'd made an estimate based on other Q&As and projections of what I think I can do with several months practise. I'll alter it to 5.5 hours then, perhaps? It doesn't matter immensely at the moment to be honest, it's about getting through it at this stage.

5.5 hours sounds good. You've got a good chance of matching or beating that and can look to improve for the following one.

The narrow slick tyres issue seems a bit controversial!

Yeah, it is a bit. A slick should be faster on road than a touring tyre but the latest thinking, backed up by lab tests, is that very narrow isn't necessarily faster. As mentioned above, something between 28 and 32mm should do the job.

 

[Mark White]

I went from 20km to 65km regular rides on a Trek 7.2 hybrid in about 6 months, and did my only 100km in 4.25 hours after about 8 months. The Trek is not lightweight, but doesn't seem that heavy either, and seems happy with rough tracks on what appear to be lightly threaded road tyres.

I found bar ends helped a lot with comfort, but the gel grips on the flat bars always get used over the bumpy bits to ease the effect on the hands. And the stock saddle was replaced with a Charge Spoon because of rave reviews, but I've only found it to be a slight improvement and suspect cheap bib tights might be contributing more to a reoccurring numb left cheek.

So for me, except for just getting out and riding, the bar ends were a big help, the stock road tyres let me roll about 10% faster than MTBers on knobblies, and a comfy saddle/shorts combination will help with comfort. And clipless shoes, of course.

 

[rhubarb_crumble]

If you're wanting to start riding longer distances on your Apollo, check the bearings out first. As Apollo bikes are cheap, they have to cut costs in places, and this often includes wheel bearings, which can slow you down dramatically if adjusted wrong.

Take the front wheel off and try to spin the axle (not the quick release skewer, if you have one) by hand. Ideally when you do this the bearings will feel smooth and you will encounter little resistance. Repeat for the back wheel. If the axle is hard to turn by hand at all, then it's slowing you down and you should look in to either servicing your hubs, or if the hubs are past servicing, think about the possibility of a new bike if you're really getting in to the sport!

I will try that when I get back, thanks. I have a service package so will be able to get them seen to if necessary.

 

[rhubarb_crumble]

Done 1000+ mile trips on a Spesh Sirrus & a Dawes Discovery, bar ends were all I added. Former has 32mm's, the latter, 35mm's, I can't tell the difference.

Impressively long trips! May be worth going for 28mm if at all, then?

 

[rhubarb_crumble]

My response was a bit strong perhaps. Not having a go at you - just the ire coming out caused by those marketing men who lump 4 or 5 different types of bike together because they can't be bothered to market them properly, but then want to create a new niche every time a new mountain bike fork with different travel comes out.

Ah, no no I didn't suspect you were. It does not surprise me that the tiresome spins and retail overkill we see everywhere else are also found in cycling retail..

5.5 hours sounds good. You've got a good chance of matching or beating that and can look to improve for the following one.

Great, would be a good position to be in mentally.

Yeah, it is a bit. A slick should be faster on road than a touring tyre but the latest thinking, backed up by lab tests, is that very narrow isn't necessarily faster. As mentioned above, something between 28 and 32mm should do the job.

That's interesting, where might I find the research - bit of a science nerd!

 

[rhubarb_crumble]

I went from 20km to 65km regular rides on a Trek 7.2 hybrid in about 6 months, and did my only 100km in 4.25 hours after about 8 months. The Trek is not lightweight, but doesn't seem that heavy either, and seems happy with rough tracks on what appear to be lightly threaded road tyres.

I found bar ends helped a lot with comfort, but the gel grips on the flat bars always get used over the bumpy bits to ease the effect on the hands. And the stock saddle was replaced with a Charge Spoon because of rave reviews, but I've only found it to be a slight improvement and suspect cheap bib tights might be contributing more to a reoccurring numb left cheek.

So for me, except for just getting out and riding, the bar ends were a big help, the stock road tyres let me roll about 10% faster than MTBers on knobblies, and a comfy saddle/shorts combination will help with comfort. And clipless shoes, of course.

That's all very helpful, thank you. I will look into all. I have padded groin shorts which take me back to my toddler days... but they are very comfortable.

 

[Rickshaw Phil]

That's interesting, where might I find the research - bit of a science nerd!

I'm afraid I've lost the link to the article that had all the details and haven't been able to find it again despite searching a few times. My memory of it isn't exact but I think it was Continental that had done the lab research and they'd found that thin tyres gave an aero advantage and wider tyres rolled better. The conclusion was that the optimum balance of aero vs rolling resistance was 25mm, which is what most of the pro peloton are using now and only a few race seasons ago would have been dismissed by them as too wide.

 

[w00hoo_kent]

Again, only thing I'd change now on my Sirrus would be adding bar ends. The ability to change riding position would really help. Aside from that, give it a good service and make sure everything is spinning right, then ride, if the saddle isn't right, you'll work it out,

 

[S.Giles]

If you're wanting to start riding longer distances on your Apollo, check the bearings out first. As Apollo bikes are cheap, they have to cut costs in places, and this often includes wheel bearings, which can slow you down dramatically if adjusted wrong.

Take the front wheel off and try to spin the axle (not the quick release skewer, if you have one) by hand. Ideally when you do this the bearings will feel smooth and you will encounter little resistance. Repeat for the back wheel. If the axle is hard to turn by hand at all, then it's slowing you down and you should look in to either servicing your hubs, or if the hubs are past servicing, think about the possibility of a new bike if you're really getting in to the sport!

Good advice. I had an Apollo (is that a 'chicken' in Spanish?), and the wheel bearings were not well adjusted when I checked them. After adjustment they were fine, but the bike weighed about the same as a moped!

Steve

 

[MarkF]

Impressively long trips! May be worth going for 28mm if at all, then?

They were my normal day bikes, if I could actually be bothered to do things properly for once, then yes, I'd go with 28's, I only carry about 5-7kg of gear.