Hybrid geometry - HELP!

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Brianw193

Brianw193

Regular
Saddle will go up, down, forwards or back and you could potentially swap the stem for something longer or shorter. I dont think spending £600+ on another hybrid will alter your position much. Irrespective of what the marketing says.
If you are intent in buying a new bike, make sure you get test rides and be prepared to walk away if nothing you find is suitable.
I have a roadie and a hybrid. I can sit up on both and get lower on both. However I am usually lower on the road bike because it makes me want to cycle fast.
What is your mobility like? perhaps you often find yourself upright because your body is most comfortable there.
Cheers Roadrider. When I bought the Trek the saddle that came on it felt like a razor blade and I took the one off the Pinnacle and swapped. This messed up angles and I could never get an adjustment that felt as comfortable as the Pinnacle. The other issue that I have not mentioned is that I got 3 years virtually maintenance free cycling out of the Pinnacle and the Trek has creaked and groaned since Day 1 with components going. It is the entry level model.

It is a very valid point about being prepared to walk away. Somehow I find it easier to walk out of a car show room than a bike shop, where I feel the staff are genuine and on my side!
 
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Brianw193

Brianw193

Regular
Can you post a picture of the Trek to see what the set up is like currently
Cheers Vickster. I am actually on holiday in upstate New York at mo. I have been using jet lag early wake ups to research bikes online. Also had a nosey in two bike shops, but given Adirondacks is mountainous they were all MTBs. Pinnacle and Trek are in trusty shed at home in Ireland, otherwise would have posted pic.
 

nickAKA

Über Member
Location
Manchester
You can probably 'fix' the trek simply by lowering or swapping the stem for something a tad longer, maybe with a bit more angle to drop it further still if required.
If you've improved your flexibility it's a natural progression to change to a more aero position on the bike and it's a relatively cheap way of doing it... but maybe the time is right to try something with drop bars, see how you get on? Speaking as a former back pain cripple, I've gone from not being able to get up & down stairs to being comfortable on the drops, if your core strength is now better give it a whirl.
 
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Pale Rider

Legendary Member
Pinnacle and Trek are in trusty shed at home in Ireland, otherwise would have posted pic.

When you get home, put the Pinnacle next to the Trek.

There are three points of contact on a bicycle - saddle, pedals, and handlebars - you can ignore everything else.

See how they compare, and look into making adjustments to the Trek to make it more closely match the Pinnacle.
 
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Brianw193

Brianw193

Regular
You can probably 'fix' the trek simply by lowering or swapping the stem for something a tad longer, maybe with a bit more angle to drop it further still if required.
If you've improved your flexibility it's a natural progression to change to a more aero position on the bike and it's a relatively cheap way of doing it... but maybe the time is right to try something with drop bars, see how you get on? Speaking as a former back pain cripple, I've gone from not being able to get up & down stairs to being comfortable on the drops, if your core strength is now better give it a whirl.
Cheers. It makes a lot of sense what you say. You are not the first in this thread to suggest making the shift to a road bike. One thing I need to check out is if I can get brakes in two positions on the handlebars. My 1980s Raleigh racer bike had high level and low level breaks allowing flexibility on riding position. Present day they all appear lower only.
 
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Brianw193

Brianw193

Regular
When you get home, put the Pinnacle next to the Trek.

There are three points of contact on a bicycle - saddle, pedals, and handlebars - you can ignore everything else.

See how they compare, and look into making adjustments to the Trek to make it more closely match the Pinnacle.
Great tip and has helped me see the light on geometry! Feeling more positive. I live in Northern Ireland and due to having a population of 1.8million we have fewer bike shops. Those that do all seem to sell Trek, Specialized and Merida (hybrids) hence looking online and feeling like I am guessing on fit
 

lane

Veteran
I would regard tye Element - which my son has - as having a fairly upright riding position - for instance when compared with the Boardman my wife has.
 
If you have a bike you like and want to replicate the points of contact you need a reference point.
I measure using [x,y] coordinates where the bottom bracket is [0,0 ]. This eliminates angles which are hard to measure.
In practice that means dropping a plumbline from top tube to bb and marking x=0 with some tape.
From this point measure back and up to the saddle nose and forward and up to the bars ( specifically where the web of your hand sits).

Take your plumbline and tape measure to the bike shop. You can figure out if you need to switch the stem or seatpost to arrive at the required position for points of contact.

NB this assumes cranks are all the same length. If not, make allowance. For 5mm longer cranks I would place saddle 5mm lower and forward and likewise for bars.
 
OP
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Brianw193

Brianw193

Regular
If you have a bike you like and want to replicate the points of contact you need a reference point.
I measure using [x,y] coordinates where the bottom bracket is [0,0 ]. This eliminates angles which are hard to measure.
In practice that means dropping a plumbline from top tube to bb and marking x=0 with some tape.
From this point measure back and up to the saddle nose and forward and up to the bars ( specifically where the web of your hand sits).

Take your plumbline and tape measure to the bike shop. You can figure out if you need to switch the stem or seatpost to arrive at the required position for points of contact.

NB this assumes cranks are all the same length. If not, make allowance. For 5mm longer cranks I would place saddle 5mm lower and forward and likewise for bars.
Thank you Michael. This guidance is really helpful. Differences are so subtle on geometry charts and as you point out angles are diff. Got plenty to work with from your suggestions
 
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