Hydraulic brake lever question

[fossyant]

You seem to have not properly read previous posts. Simply repeating "You take pads out so they do not get contaminated with brake fluid" is pointless. I suspect pads are removed because most people are pretty ham fisted and shouldn't be in charge of a knife and fork let alone servicing braking systems.

Actually, Shimano bleed is much messier than the SRAM kit. The SRAM kit screws into a bleed port, shimano pushes a tube on a bleed nipple and this is certainly messier - far better to use the bleed block that comes with bleed kits.

 

[Threevok]

If you really want to bitch about bleeding brakes - try Avid Elixirs

Oh the joys

 

[Crankarm]

I repeated it because some people dont listen.

Is this the Maybot gambit?

 

[derrick]

Is this the Maybot gambit?

 

[Crankarm]

Actually, Shimano bleed is much messier than the SRAM kit. The SRAM kit screws into a bleed port, shimano pushes a tube on a bleed nipple and this is certainly messier - far better to use the bleed block that comes with bleed kits.

You say it is messier. Why is pushing a tube onto a bleed nipple messy? Sorry but in the hands of the ham fisted and clumsy brake fluid can still be spilled on any surface with braking surfaces, paint surfaces or other. I suspect cycle manufacturers supply these "bleed blocks" to cover themselves should some numptee get brake fluid on pads or disc. I have never ever had a problem spilling brake fluid when bleeding brakes. I work cleanly and carefully. I suspect the problem the OP is experiencing with their bike's rear brakes may well disappear with brakes bled properly expelling all air with the pads in unless there is an inherent problem with the brake levers having no adjusters to make up for differences in travel and bite point. The OP doesn't say how worn the pads are. New pads will be thicker meaning the brake lever travels less to make the pads touch the disc. However we shall assume the pads are in good condition. Set up and bled properly both front and rear brakes should operate the same albeit different stopping abilities as one is the front and the other the rear.

 

[Richard.1]

I think it is an obvious truth that some are more proficient or practised at brake bleeding. I am sure others are more skilled at other tasks - no need to disparage those who spill some brake fluid.
I will consider bleeding with the pads in or using a thinner alternative to the bleed block the next time. However I am not sure this is that relevant if both front and rear are bled using a bleed block. Bleeding with pads in or a thinner alternative to a bleed block would seem to make both levers have less travel and not a solution or explanation for slightly unequal lever travel.

 

[fossyant]

The mineral oil spills out as you attach it, and the little plastic fixing ring isn't as secure. The SRAM system is less messy. You also remove the wheels for a bleed - again, oily fingers can contaminate the disc if you don't watch it.

I have both Shimano and SRAM brakes - both are easy to do, but you do end up with oil of brake fluid on your hands. I also have the blocks and it's no big deal to remove the pads, as it's not really necessary to bleed the brakes often. I've only done it on my SRAM bike to replace the lever piston (known issue of sticking), and when I got my wife's bike second hand the rear brake had air in.

It's no issue just to use the block.

 

[CXRAndy]

You seem to have not properly read previous posts. Simply repeating "You take pads out so they do not get contaminated with brake fluid" is pointless. I suspect pads are removed because most people are pretty ham fisted and shouldn't be in charge of a knife and fork let alone servicing braking systems.

You seem rather irritated with some of the replies.

Its not so plain sailing with the smaller calipers and the tiny bleed nipples to make the job non splash proof. I too have done many motorcycle and car brake bleeds. The physical size allows for a tidier job. Yes it is contamination if the oil gets into the pad brake surface. The spacer comes if you buy a kit from Shimano.

Have a go with Hope calipers, they dont have nipples to slide a hose onto. You thread an attachment hose. when removing fluid leaks all over the place- a nightmare if pads were left unprotected in situ.

 

[CXRAndy]

I think it is an obvious truth that some are more proficient or practised at brake bleeding. I am sure others are more skilled at other tasks - no need to disparage those who spill some brake fluid.
I will consider bleeding with the pads in or using a thinner alternative to the bleed block the next time. However I am not sure this is that relevant if both front and rear are bled using a bleed block. Bleeding with pads in or a thinner alternative to a bleed block would seem to make both levers have less travel and not a solution or explanation for slightly unequal lever travel.

Yes there is a little extra travel, but my solution is to do what I do with smaller spacer. I also add a little back pressure of fluid when tightening off the nipple, this takes away the extra lever travel too

 

[Threevok]

I also add a little back pressure of fluid when tightening off the nipple, this takes away the extra lever travel too

Don't try that with Avids Elixirs - they use .dot fluid.

I did, and it was fine in the winter.

However, I leaned my bike against the wall on a hot day, while I locked the factory up and the sun locked my brakes up too.

 

[CXRAndy]

Don't try that with Avids Elixirs - they use .dot fluid.

I did, and it was fine in the winter.

However, I leaned my bike against the wall on a hot day, while I locked the factory up and the sun locked my brakes up too.

My bike with Avids did that after a pad change. Never touch the fluid on particular bike. Bike front wheel was locked after coming back out from a shop. I fortunately had an allen key to bleed off a little fluid to release pads

 

[Nebulous]

I have the same 505 brakes. When my bike arrived, out of the box, the back brake seemed slightly 'softer' than the front one. Both braked really well, with a modulated approach, but there was more pull on the back.

A year later I got new wheels, new discs and new pads. I bought a Shimano bleed kit and a litre of fluid, used the spacer, expelled all the old fluid, and bled it as carefully as I could.

It's better, with a more direct feel, but the back still feels just slightly less direct than the front. I've different discs, 160 on the front and 140 on the back, so I don't know if that contributes.

 

[CXRAndy]

If you do my tip of wrapping new pads in cling film add a piece of paper to create a wafer thin gap or two if you prefer a little more travel. Inject fluid from caliper without removing cap on brake lever- lock off bleed nipple whilst holding syringe pressure

 

[fossyant]

Don't try that with Avids Elixirs - they use .dot fluid.

I did, and it was fine in the winter.

However, I leaned my bike against the wall on a hot day, while I locked the factory up and the sun locked my brakes up too.

Psst, that's potentially the sticky piston issue that SRAM had on the early Guides (similar lever with the Avids). The heat caused the piston to expand, locking the brakes solid. The replacement piston isn't as 'wide'. Mine did it sat in the sun.

 

[Threevok]

Psst, that's potentially the sticky piston issue that SRAM had on the early Guides (similar lever with the Avids). The heat caused the piston to expand, locking the brakes solid. The replacement piston isn't as 'wide'. Mine did it sat in the sun.

Probably. All I know is I had to bleed a little fluid out of each brake to get home