Hydraulic brake lever question

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SpokeyDokey

67, & my GP says I will officially be old at 70!
Moderator
Thanks for the replies. My Shimano is RS505 which does not have bite point adjustment (I think). I thought the adjustment is just for the lever reach.
The SRAM is Rival, both are drop bars. I have not yet looked into whether the SRAM has bite point adjustment.

Sorry, slight error in my original post - I did not mean the rear feels less stiff, I meant the lever travel is just a bit more before the biting point and also where both levers refuse to go any further.
Just to clarify - both bikes have good working brakes, there is no sponginess. Both bikes are set up with left and right reach exactly the same. For both bikes the front hardly needs to be touched (2-3mm measured at very bottom of lever) before brakes engage and less than 1 cm travel later it refuses to go any further. The rear on the other hand does not engage until around 5mm and does not stop until 1.5 cm travel later.

Pads are the same thickness.
Regarding rear pads being further away - I was under the impression hydraulic is self adjusting so would front and back not be the same distance from rotor?
I follow recommended instructions for bleeding (obviously different for Shmano and SRAM) and I have all the gear but seem to have to spend a lot longer to get the last air bubbles out compared to youtube videos. I don't bleed with pads in place, I use a bleed block.

They have free stroke and reach adjustment - page 62 of this manual (scroll past the RS685's to the RS505's):

https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-BR0008-08-ENG.pdf
 
OP
OP
R

Richard.1

Senior Member
They have free stroke and reach adjustment - page 62 of this manual (scroll past the RS685's to the RS505's):

https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-BR0008-08-ENG.pdf


Thanks but it seems this manual is not quite right for my RS505 - possibly either an earlier or later version, either way the free stroke adjustment instruction pictures don't match my levers. Thanks anyway.
 
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