Idiot Of the year recumbent rider....

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BlackPanther

Hyper-Fast Recumbent Riding Member.
Location
Doncaster.
.....its me I'm afraid.

The Trice wasn't shifting smoothly. A frayed gear cable coming out of the bar end shifter, and/or a close to worn out chain were my thoughts on the cause. Fitted new chain, new cables, new bar tape. Test ride proved problematic. The return chain off the chainring kept going really loose. Spotted a perished chain guide clamp, sorted that, problem persisted. Then noticed the bracket that holds the idler and the 3 chain clamps was at an angle. Sorted that, problem persisted. Resorted to Ices excellent website to consult their Trice assembly manual. Couldn't spot anything. Checked idler wasn't sticking, swapped a worn washer, yes, problem persisted. EVENTUALLY, came to examine the chain run. I've swapped chains before, and the first time I googled it and saw that it's best the count the links of the old chain, make the length the same, then splice new chain to old, run it through the system, remove old, couple up the new. I'm assuming everyone else does this, it's a doddle. BUT, this time, as I wanted to clean out the chain tubes etc, I removed the old chain, and measured against be new, cut, then fitted it. After all, I've fitted new chains before, where could I go wrong? Just make sure the chain to the chainring pulls the cassette.

It's taken me 5 hours to realise that although I'd done the above, because I'd had a few other niggles along the way, I didn't realise that I'd put the chain leading into the chainring through the bottom tube, instead of the top one. so it worked a bit, but under power, the chain went all saggy.

I'll give myself 10 out of 10 for sheer stupidity. Feel free to mark me yourself, I can take it!
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
You only get a 10 if you manage to thread it through the derailleur wrongly as well. ^_^
DAMHIKT :whistle:
 

arallsopp

Post of The Year 2009 winner
Location
Bromley, Kent
For a real treat, thread the chain correctly, but introduce a half twist before rejoining the ends. Do it right and you get a near impossible to detect power sapping lag on the drivetrain. You'll swear your rear wheel is rubbing, but it'll freewheel perfectly. If you do it on the power side, the tell is visible from the varying angles of the short run of links twixt tube and chain rings as you look along the boom. If you do it on the return side, you might well find you've run it that way for a few thousand miles.*

The bonus is when a routine clean six months later suddenly yields a massive power boost.


*thus speaks the voice of experience. Don't be this guy. This guy has already done it.
 

Lonestar

Veteran
People make mistakes,it happens.It took me absolutely ages for me to sort out the Audax converting into single speed and with this conversion the chain kept jumping.Eventually I found the problem (chain wasn't covering enough of the rear cog) and very soon after converted it back to a geared bike with only minor problems.(fixed)
 
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Pikey

Waiting for the turbo to kick in...
Location
Wiltshire
.....its me I'm afraid.

The Trice wasn't shifting smoothly. A frayed gear cable coming out of the bar end shifter, and/or a close to worn out chain were my thoughts on the cause. Fitted new chain, new cables, new bar tape. Test ride proved problematic. The return chain off the chainring kept going really loose. Spotted a perished chain guide clamp, sorted that, problem persisted. Then noticed the bracket that holds the idler and the 3 chain clamps was at an angle. Sorted that, problem persisted. Resorted to Ices excellent website to consult their Trice assembly manual. Couldn't spot anything. Checked idler wasn't sticking, swapped a worn washer, yes, problem persisted. EVENTUALLY, came to examine the chain run. I've swapped chains before, and the first time I googled it and saw that it's best the count the links of the old chain, make the length the same, then splice new chain to old, run it through the system, remove old, couple up the new. I'm assuming everyone else does this, it's a doddle. BUT, this time, as I wanted to clean out the chain tubes etc, I removed the old chain, and measured against be new, cut, then fitted it. After all, I've fitted new chains before, where could I go wrong? Just make sure the chain to the chainring pulls the cassette.

It's taken me 5 hours to realise that although I'd done the above, because I'd had a few other niggles along the way, I didn't realise that I'd put the chain leading into the chainring through the bottom tube, instead of the top one. so it worked a bit, but under power, the chain went all saggy.

I'll give myself 10 out of 10 for sheer stupidity. Feel free to mark me yourself, I can take it!

I definitely didn't just go and check my trike :shy:
 

Falco Frank

Über Member
Location
Oup Norf'
No negative marks at all from me. You adopted logical reasoning to resolve possible issues and didnt give up until it was solved.

Well done, in my books.
 
For a real treat, thread the chain correctly, but introduce a half twist before rejoining the ends. Do it right and you get a near impossible to detect power sapping lag on the drivetrain. You'll swear your rear wheel is rubbing, but it'll freewheel perfectly. If you do it on the power side, the tell is visible from the varying angles of the short run of links twixt tube and chain rings as you look along the boom. If you do it on the return side, you might well find you've run it that way for a few thousand miles.*

The bonus is when a routine clean six months later suddenly yields a massive power boost.


*thus speaks the voice of experience. Don't be this guy. This guy has already done it.

....heh heh, done that one a while back on my mk1 trike - hard to detect when it's running thru a metre or so of tubing, but feel a real nana when eventually suss it......
 

Andrew1971

Veteran
Location
Northallerton
We all make mistake's it's part of the learning curve. I got my chain and chain tube's wrong on my KMX in the end i emailed them and got a pdf to show me how it was done:okay:
Andrew
 

markg0vbr

Über Member
I have riden hundreds of acumilated miles with the parking brake on I thought I was becoming feeble the other week on the racing hand bike I had to stop going up the hill I live on after a 5 mile ride to my friends house he spotted the parking brake was on when he had a go on it.

I have also done this with my 1150cc BMW trike I think the smell and smoke was a bit of a give away on that one though.
 

starhawk

Senior Member
Location
Bandhagen Sweden
I have riden hundreds of acumilated miles with the parking brake on I thought I was becoming feeble the other week on the racing hand bike I had to stop going up the hill I live on after a 5 mile ride to my friends house he spotted the parking brake was on when he had a go on it.

Didn't you notice it? I have driven a car with the handbrake on but then you have a big brute of a motor pulling the thing, it's different when you yourself are the motor.
 

markg0vbr

Über Member
Not really the hand brakes for the trikes and hand bikes are just to stop them rolling off when not on them you still have to pull the brake on when mounting.
I thought I might have a tyre that was down a bit plus when I am peddling/handling in a low gear I can pull a very heavy trailor, second trike behind me or in the gym the big lengths of anchor chain I use trailing behind the wheelchair.

I did notice when I disingaged it.
 

Sailorsi

Recumbents - Exercise whilst lying down
Location
Hants
At least you can own up and post about it. I can imagine me searching through the internet looking for advice on a similar issue and coming across your post in a few years time! Easy mistake.Took me ages to get the run right on mine, had to scroll through google images for help....and youtube for the bottom bracket....and headrace......and rear mech.....Got there in the end :tongue: Google is my friend and teacher.
 
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