Internal concrete step

Discussion in 'CycleChat Cafe' started by User, 11 Jul 2018.

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  1. User

    User Guest

  2. BianchiVirgin

    BianchiVirgin Well-Known Member

    Location:
    Norn Iron
    In theory no but the extended piece will crack through time (At the joint) and possibly drop a bit unless well dowelled into the existing floor. Suggest you speak to someone experienced about this and the type of mix to use.
     
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  3. pjd57

    pjd57 Über Member

    Location:
    Glasgow
    Damp proofing looks like the main concern.
     
  4. pjd57

    pjd57 Über Member

    Location:
    Glasgow
    [QUOTE 5309951, member: 45"]I have a friendly engineer who said it would be fine, and the previous step was shoddy and lasted nearly 50 years. I'm not too fussed about it dropping or cracking as it will be beneath a solid floor and wouldn't be a hard fix. I'm more concerned about the permanence of concrete coming right to the edge of the plaster.[/QUOTE]
    Some expansion joint material possibly between the concrete and the plaster.
     
  5. bluenotebob

    bluenotebob Active Member

    Location:
    France
    I'd chuck a cement slurry down first (cement/water mix) to make sure the concrete adheres to the old surface - that might reduce the risk of the joint cracking too.

    I'm certainly no expert but it wouldn't worry me about the concrete abutting the plaster.

    As mentioned above, the proportions of the mix to be used for the step is important. What height is the step ? it's hard to tell from the pix.

    Looks to me like making the shuttering is the hardest part of the job - other than that (and the mix proportions), if it was me, I'd just buy what I needed and go for it.
     
  6. Reiver

    Reiver Legendary Member

    [QUOTE 5309951, member: 45"]I have a friendly engineer who said it would be fine, and the previous step was shoddy and lasted nearly 50 years. I'm not too fussed about it dropping or cracking as it will be beneath a solid floor and wouldn't be a hard fix. I'm more concerned about the permanence of concrete coming right to the edge of the plaster.[/QUOTE]
    I would hack the plaster off so the top of the concrete was just below the plaster. Plaster is often quite good at conducting damp, so if there is any damp in what you are going to lay the concrete on then it won't be able to work itself so easily into the plaster.

    I take it that black material on the conservatory side is the DPM under the conservatory floor ?
    if you think where you are going to lay the screed is damp you could always clean it off and paint it with black bitumen first.

    I would just form a strong bit of wood to the same height as the conservatory floor and use may be a fairly dry 4:1 sharp sand mix. should be fine if you are just going to cover with flooring. (I did one similar 20 + years ago and its still going strong)
     
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  7. bluenotebob

    bluenotebob Active Member

    Location:
    France
    Good luck @User - sounds like you've got it sorted
     
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  8. slowmotion

    slowmotion Quite dreadful

    Location:
    lost somewhere
    Don't forget to round over the edge of the concrete slightly so that the edge of the step doesn't have a sharp edge.
     
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  9. TissoT

    TissoT Über Member

    Some one has got there levels wrong ! (being a joiner/builder) You will be creating a step by bringing the edge to the front of the internal wall.
    In your shoes i would take up some of the conservatory floor (100mm strip or take the edge off the existing conservatory slab) to form a graduate slope which would be less of a trip hazard and look less of a mistake by having two different floor levels.
     
    Last edited: 12 Jul 2018
  10. TissoT

    TissoT Über Member

    [QUOTE 5310347, member: 45"]The step is unavoidable. The ground to the rear of the house slopes up away from the house, so this is the lowest we could get the conservatory floor without it going below ground level at the other end. And it's a concrete slab so there's no floor to slope.

    The step will be fine. We tried to get rid of it but it wasn't possible, and it was there before so it's not an issue.[/QUOTE]

    ]The step is unavoidable .... But you have bridged the two damp course levels This should of been avoided in the first instance.
     
  11. TissoT

    TissoT Über Member

    [QUOTE 5310369, member: 45"]How?[/QUOTE]

    The top of the concrete slab should be the top of the damp course level.
     
  12. meta lon

    meta lon Guru

    Location:
    pboro
    If that was my problem, I'd do the concrete, and finish so I could then put a hardwood threshold.
    Finish with skirting and plaster to paint finishing.
    A nice step has beauty and also a nice way to show the step up,down for any visitors etc.

    Get the hardwood first so you can make the concrete step to the right height.
     
  13. meta lon

    meta lon Guru

    Location:
    pboro
    [QUOTE 5310397, member: 45"]I like that idea. I'm not sure how good I am at levels though and working it so that the solid floor ends up flush with the hardwood.[/QUOTE]

    As long as you leave enough room for the wood you'll be ok as you can bed that on mortar or anything like gripfill ect.
    You can set it level with spacers and screw it down then fill the screw holes with a complimentary wood filler so it blends in then varnish or wood oil etc to show off the woods beauty.

    Worth it for a nice finish.
    Concrete and a tile over option is ok but wood is king
     
    User45 likes this.
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