Isparta-Istanbul Bike Tour (1505 km)

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aytu_14

aytu_14

Well-Known Member
Location
Turkey

18. Day (Cunda Island-Edremit-Küçükkuyu(Çanakkale)) (92 km)
As a new day rises every morning
One more day goes away from life;
Every dawn is like a thief
Coming with a lantern.

(OMAR KHAYYAM)
I do not know if it was because of the excitement of approaching Çanakkale - my dear Çanakkale, my youth - that day passed very quickly. When I woke up and set off, I did not remember how I passed Edremit or Akçay. I was standing on the road and couldn't remember what I ate or where I ate. I was writing little notes every evening. But at that moment, I couldn't think of anything. I was having an interesting moment.

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After a while I started to remember something. I stopped when I saw this sign. I must have smiled. Or clench my fist and say, "I'm coming!" did I say?

I took this photo and sent it to my friends in GAAÖL (Gökçeada Atatürk Anatolian Teacher High School). Mikail said, "You were in Izmir 2 days ago. Did you put on a motor, drink redbulls and get wings? " he made one of his classic jokes. I laughed ... But don't think I laughed at Mikail's joke. I reached Çanakkale, I was going to reach. That's why I smile.

I was on the terrace of a mosque on the beach in Küçükkuyu. It had a sea view. I had spread my bed. There was a hostel opposite and a window was facing me. They were lucky because they had a beautiful view (!)

I had a funny situation at that moment. The opposite window opened and there was a greeting. He turned and looked at the sea, then looked at me and smiled. “I have a bed inside, I have air conditioning. For some reason yours looked better. " she said. This time I smiled. "Come. There is place my side. ” I said. He shook his head with a laugh. He wished good evening and closed his window.

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King bed

I stopped writing and went to sleep. I had to leave early in the morning. On the foothills of Mount Ida, a 10 km climb awaited me to reach Çanakkale. After all, it also had its descent.
 
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aytu_14

aytu_14

Well-Known Member
Location
Turkey
19. Day (Küçükkuyu – Çanakkale) (100 km)

I woke up in the morning with the sound of adhan. I had to complete the climb before the vehicle density increased. I did not have breakfast for a comfortable climb. I refreshed my water and started cycling.

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"Come on! Almost finish ! Turn, turn, turn! Inhale through the nose. Give out by mouth." By doing this, I reached the top. This hill I climbed was the last difficult hill of this tour.

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Last look at the Aegean Sea

I put on my headphones while I was breathing in the summit. I adjusted the music list. I went down with the music of Duman (Rock band). These musics took their place among my tour rituals. I reached Ezine by singing songs out loud. I had breakfast here.

I pressed the pedal again and reached Kepez. After that, there was a light ramp in front of me. When I reached the top of that ramp, Çanakkale was in front of me. "I'm coming, my dear Çanakkale."

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I entered the petrol station on the hill to get water. At that time, a motorcycle came from behind and stopped next to me. He said “Brother, I had a hard time getting out on a motorcycle this hill. I was seeing you from afar. How can you climb the bike? Good job man" I would see Çanakkale. Would the slopes prevent me!

I started to enter Çanakkale. It was a astroturf that made my memories reverberate first. It was the first time I played a match for baklava(dessert). Our teacher from the classroom had formed a team. We also formed a staff from our own class. Our teacher was very assertive, his team was solid. Luckily one of them was half an hour late for the game. In other words, they started the game with one person missing. We made good use of this weakness of the opponent and opened the difference in half an hour. Then that player was involved in the game. Good thing he came late. With his entrance, the opponent had reduced the difference to one. Of course, our team was out of breath, we were trying to resist. We didn't even have the situation to take a step, let alone run. As such, the ball came to my feet in the midfield. I sent the ball to Hasan so that he would go away from me. So he sent the ball back to me so that it could get away from him. He got angry as to me "Why are you throwing the ball at me?" And I sent back him, feeding those same feelings. We made nearly 10 passes. Anyone who saw us would think Xavi-Iniesta was passing. I made Hasan score the goal by forcing each other by approaching the rival castle like this. We scored the goal but both of us were still angry. We were staring as if to say why are you throwing the ball back. After that goal, the opponent scored another goal. But time was not enough, we won the match. The whole team was on the ground. Our teacher left without eating the baklava he bought. Baklava was nice.

I was still pedaling. I was leaving behind the streets, the avenues I walked with my friends. I kept driving and approached the intersection. There was another astroturf ahead. I had a cracked wrist in a match. - I still hear a sound from my wrist. There is a bus stop on the right. When I walk in front of this stop almost 5 years ago, one of old woman says, "You're like my lamb Tarık Akan.(Actor)" she said.
I was pulling towards the pier. I saw the Clock Tower on the left. I don't have a memory about it, but we have many memories ruining our dreams in the shop behind which the football bet is played. For a certain period we were in the hostel above that shop. We agreed, including food. Kemal, Hakan and I were three of us staying. Kemal still tells that the woman who owns the pension does not offer dessert after the meal.

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Canakkale Clock Tower

When we passed the clock tower and continued on the road on the right, doner kebab shops, cheese halva's shops and cafes street... I was continuing. Şakir's Place, Navy tea gardens… We used to gather here. The Yalı oven was closed. I was going to eat croissant for Michael, it didn't work.

I'm back. I drove towards Kordon. The Trojan Horse and what's more… Whichever stone I look up, there is a moment that I lived or my friends lived.

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Trojan Horse

I went back to the Clock Tower. We had corresponded with my high school friend Ali Rahman. I was going to be her guest. It came after waiting a while. It hadn't changed at all. After greeting him and asking him about his situation, we went to his brother Recep. They got into the car, I followed them by cycling after the car. They made me sweat well.

When I got home, I met Rahman's family. Then I took a shower. We had a nice meal. I ate watermelon. I love watermelon very much. Since I was traveling alone, I could not buy watermelons. Trouble to finish, trouble to carry. You can't go to the grocery store and ask for a quarter watermelon. Though, Once I asked a grocery store. He said "No." There are some moments in life, it gets discouraging. This was one of those moments. I could not ask for another grocery store.

Rahman was appointed to Van as a mathematics teacher. He was waiting for the process to be finalized. I am also from Van. When I went to Van, I said I would definitely go to him. As of now I have not been able to go yet. The child's term of office is nearly over. I'll come one day, Rahman.

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aytu_14

aytu_14

Well-Known Member
Location
Turkey
20. Day (Canakkale)


There was a scale at home. I was going to look at my weight at the end of the tour, but I couldn't stand it. When I got on the scale, the weight stabilized at 86. I started at 92 kilos. I cycling around, sang songs loudly and had fun. I also ate my food comfortably without suffering "remorse", "I would gain weight if I eat this" without worry. I lost 6 kilos on top of it. It is almost impossible to achieve this in real life without suffering "pure pain". It would be a lie if I said I did not suffering this tour. But it was a bittersweet pain. It was like a hot pot that my mother made. It makes you cry while eating. But you eat even more while crying. I was sweat, I had pain in my arms and legs, but I didn't want it to end. Because I felt life more deeply at the moments when that difficulty was at its most extreme.

We went out after having breakfast with Rahman. We called some of our friends who might be in Çanakkale. Everyone had gone to other provinces since it was the eve of the Eid al-Adha. But I saw on instagram that a friend of mine was in Çanakkale. Emre. We used to stay in the same dorm in high school. He was angry that I opened the window when he woke up in the morning. -It is getting cold. My brother, 12 (twelve!) People live together. Of course I'll open it- He was at a beach with his friends. We went to there. He was engaged. Since her fiancee Birsen is from Biga, they came to Çanakkale for the feast. When you become a groom you cannot say ; "No, I am not coming, I will travel, I have a holiday, what I am doing in your village in the best times of my life." At least you can't tell your fiancee. Because he told us. On top of these words, he gave the wedding invitation. I got his invitation with a laugh. My brother, I'm out to live, to feel life. Why do you remind me of death? (!)

We spent that day remembering the past with Rahman and Emre. Then we broke up with Emre Uçmak. You know he was engaged. That evening, thanks to Rahman, he also ordered me a cheese halva. I normally ate plain. But on the recommendation of another friend -and probably because Rahman will pay the bill- I ate ice cream. It was much more delicious.

I slept in Rahman's house tonight.

Regarding the technical part of the tour between Balıkesir (Border) - Çanakkale (Departure):

The wind continued to blow across. When I entered the Çanakkale, the wind was even stronger.

I climbed and descended approximately 4500 m for 464 km. I cycling an average of 66.30 km per day.

I cycling from the main road from İzmir Aliağa to the Çanakkale Biga exit - except between Çandarlı and Dikili. The road was covered with hot asphalt. Only the 10 km distance between Çandarlı-Dikili and the foothills of Kazdağları was cold asphalt pavement. Asphalt conditions were good. Vehicle traffic increased compared to other places I passed. The density of large vehicles was high between the Aliağa-Balıkesir border.

*** My journey continued for 2 more days. Since the article in this section is short, I found it appropriate to share it here.
 
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aytu_14

aytu_14

Well-Known Member
Location
Turkey
21. Day (Canakkale-Biga) (100 km)

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Continue after a day's break

I woke up in the morning and prepared my stuff. Rahman had prepared breakfast and prepared a few things for me to eat on the way. After having breakfast and saying goodbye, I hit the road.

While I was in Çanakkale, my class and ward friend İlyas sent a message from GAAÖL. I am definitely waiting for you if you stop by Biga. I've come this far. Of course I was going to go. It had been a long time since I saw Ilyas.

I continued on the coastal road in the direction of Yapıldak and Lapseki. When I arrived in Lapseki, I came across a hitchhiker. The friend has been collecting peaches in Lapseki for 3 months. He saved his money. He was going to continue the journey. Wherever he wants to go now. It is not difficult to do these works, to perform the art of traveling. You don't need special tools. There are different ways. He has hitchhiking, he has a bike. You do not need large savings or sums either.

After eating in Lapseki, I continued driving towards Biga. About 2-3 km before I reached Biga, I accidentally entered a pit. A spoke of the rear wheel broke due to the bicycle being loaded. In this case, I continued driving and reached Biga.

We managed to get together with Ilyas, although it was a little difficult. He had gained some weight, but that had not changed either. Made me "God's maniac! What are you doing son! " he said and greeted him with a laugh. "I live my life."

We first went to a cyclist with Ilyas where I could have the bike repaired. Luckily there was a shop open. We left the bike for repair and went to eat. Biga made him eat his meatballs. It was a perfect meatball.

After dinner, we took the bike from the mechanic and left it to his friend's house in Biga. Then we set off on a motorcycle to Sarısavat, where Ilyas' house is located. The road was very sloping. It would be difficult for me to go on a bike. But I would have removed it if necessary, so no problem.

We reached Sarısavat by crossing beautiful roads. The village had an excellent view. People gathered in their villages because the next day was a holiday. Consequently, the house of Ilyas was also crowded. His mother, father, elder sister, nephews, brother-in-law, and brother were in a beautiful environment. I've met them all except one niece. I was thinking he went to the market, to the grocery store or something, or he was playing games. While they were sitting and chatting like that, they said, "Well, our little one came". I turned my head towards the door. He took a step inward, bowing his head slightly, probably because he was worried about his head hitting the door. I would be lying if I said I didn't have a "startle". "Welcome brother," he said. I must to call you brother, Ilyas must say to you uncle. For a 13-year-old, he's huge. Do not touch the evil eye. It was one of the beautiful moments I was surprised at.

That evening we went back to Biga with Ilyas. I met his friends. Most of them came from Istanbul for the holidays. We sat in the tea garden. We played okey on one side, bets, hookahs, cigarettes, chatter on the other, and returned to the village at night.

Ilyas is an aircraft technician. He started to work in THY. While chatting, I asked if a marriage was on the horizon. "No boy, am I crazy?" he said. The smart man. Forgive I made a mistake by asking this question.

The next year, I was in Biga during the Eid al-Adha. To the difference between the lunar and solar calendar, the following year is celebrated 11 days before. This time I went for Ilyas’s wedding. "No boy, am I crazy?" He held an engagement and wedding less than a year after his promise. The irony of life…
 
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aytu_14

aytu_14

Well-Known Member
Location
Turkey
22. Day (Biga-Biga Exit-Biga) (43 km) (First Part)

It was the first day of the Eid al-Adha. I said goodbye to Ilyas' family and went to Biga with Ilyas after the feast and sacrifice. I took my bike. Ilyas and his nephew Mehmet Akif came with me on a motorcycle to the main road. After adjusting the pressure of the wheels of the bike at the gas station, I said goodbye and left.

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I started pedaling towards Bandırma. When we talked with İlyas the previous day about when the tour will end, I said that I would go to Yalova and go to Istanbul by ferry. He said that I could go to Istanbul from Bandırma by using the sea bus. On all these roads my left arm was numb. Road fatigue was also increased. I was getting distracted. This idea made sense. I would arrive in Bandırma, go to Istanbul Yenikapı by sea bus and drive from there to Tuzla (my house). For this purpose, I planned to spend the night in Bandırma and go to Istanbul for the first time in the morning.

I was driving slowly, driving calmly, stopping by the villages in between. Considering that I was a little too busy, I took the main road and accelerated to arrive without darkness. I had about 55 km left. After passing the Trustland, there was a light ramp in front of me. The gulf wind was also blowing hard across. I was wearing headphones in my ears and listening to the "Animal" from music of the Duman group. In order to reduce the effect of the wind, I was getting as small as possible on the bike and traveling from the safety lane. For a moment near the end of the ramp, I looked up and forward. Ahead, a car was parked in the safety lane. I bowed my head again and continued up the slope. I also got caught up in the rhythm of the music. I can pedal and say, “We are all animals! Our fight to be human! " I was singing loudly. "We are all animals!" I hit something while I said. It turns out that the slope is over and my speed has increased. I was caught in the rhythm of the music. It flew away from my mind that there was a car ahead. I hit that stationary car.

The headset was wrapped around my arm. The bicycle was piled on me or I was piled on it, I was in a strange state that I could not understand. Then I gathered myself. I looked at the bike first. The front fork had become unusable. Then I looked at myself. Nothing but a few minor scratches and a little pain in the rib. I looked at the car, one of the cat's eyes fell to the ground. At the same time, I was holding my arm with my hand. Somehow I started laughing. I did not know whether I was laughing at my stupidity or my vacuity. I got up and collected the items. I pulled out the emergency kit. I have dressed my elbow wounds. I tried to fix the tongs but in vain.

There was nothing to do. To worry, "I wish I had been careful!" It would not help to say such words. The most important factor that allowed me to do this tour and go this far was that I prepared myself for any scenario. I was thinking about an accident situation. There would be bad people as well as good people. The slopes would be difficult, I was likely to be sick, the weather would be very hot, I would be caught in the rain. Dogs could attack other creatures. I could also have trouble finding a place to spend the night. I thought about all of these for a long time before I set off. I came to the same conclusion in all of them. Whatever problem arose, life would continue to flow. The flow of life also meant that new roads would open for me. Then I was going to continue that way. Life would find balance as long as I showed the resistance to continue, just as I balanced on a bike.
Albert Einstein: Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving.
 

GlamorganGuy

Well-Known Member
5. day ( Demre-Kaş-Kaputaş Beach) (70 Km) (Second Part)

The hard part of the Kaş road was over. After that, it was a bumpy road that did not tire me as much as I expected. On the way, we had a little chat with three sweet children –Cemil, Yasin, Nagehan.

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Dogs sounds were heard in the forests 2 km before landing in Kaş. Dog voices grew louder as he got closer. There was a serious shiver in me. There was no settlement near me. After a little more I realized that it was a dog shelter. It was the dogs' scream of rebellion.

When I came to the intersection where I was going to land in Kaş, I came across 3 people hitchhiking. Diyar, Veysi, Bahtiyar. Very nice names. It was the first time they were hitchhiking. They were a bit reproached for not stopping the vehicles though. But despite this, it was obvious that they enjoyed very much. They had taken the poison. After that, they would go for a hitchhiking ride whenever they had a chance. I was sure of that.

Friends also advised me that I should definitely see Kaputaş and Patara beach. After wishing each other luck, I continued on my way and landed in Kaş.

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After eating my meal in Kaş and wandering around the center, I went to the public beach at the Kaş exit. The road was tiring for me, I needed to rest. I met a family from Manisa on the beach. They were driving slowly along the coastline in their cars. I drank the tea they offered. After swimming and resting, I met Mevsim. He was studying abroad. He came to Kaş with his uncle for vacation. While we were talking, Her cousin Nehir and her friend Bali came. After meeting them and hanging out for a few hours, we left. They went to go their home. And me, I went to go Kaputaş beach.

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Kaş entrance

A noise came from the bike while I were traveling towards Kaputaş. When I looked back, my sleeping bag had fallen off the bike and was rolling into the abyss. At that moment a truck passed over the overalls, and after the thud, the bag of the overalls got caught in the truck. After screaming whistling, the truck stopped ahead. I took my overalls. The truck was going to Kalkan and offered to leave me to Kaputaş. Actually, I had finished the difficult part of the road, but I accepted it because the road was a little narrow.


View: https://www.instagram.com/p/BX0-M1PgcgG/


After reaching Kaputaş beach, I tied the bike to the railing and went down to the beach. I was going to stay the night here. Mehmet, whom I met on the beach in Kaş, said that he was a staff member at Kaputaş beach and it would not be a problem for him to spend the night on the beach if I wanted. He was on guard at the beach at night.

After swimming in the sea for a while, when I went upstairs to pick up my belongings, I realized that I lost the key to the bike on the beach. Although I searched for the key after downloading my stuff, I could not find it. Still, I'm lucky. I tied the bike to the handlebar. I dismantled the brake and gear and unlocked the bike and put it down a few stairs so that it was in view of the camera. A red bicycle lock hung about 20 meters from the hut. If you go, look at the railings. If they haven't removed the lock, you'll see a memory from me.

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Kaputaş Beach

I met Rafet and his family from Adana at the beach in the evening. They set off from Adana and followed the coastline for short distances. They invited me to their tables, at first I just thought of saying thank you, but then I remembered that I didn't shop for food in Kaş. Rafet also forgot to buy cigarettes. I offered cigarettes after I had dinner with them. After drinking our tea and smoking with a pleasant conversation, I threw my bed on a sunbed and slept.

At around 2 o'clock at night, I woke up to a scream for help. One man: "Help!" he was shouting. When I looked where the sound was coming from, I saw a few people on the cliffs. After work, while 4 friends were going to sit on the rocks to have a chat, one of them slipped and fell down. I immediately called the gendarmerie and informed the situation. The ambulance, the gendarmerie and the acute arrived. Meanwhile, the father of the fallen person also came. We hardly stopped him because he were trying to climb.

A woman aged 24-25 - the friend of the fallen person - led the paramedic and the gendarmerie separately. And brought they to her injured friend. She up and down to the rocks 5 times. They removed the injured after about 1 hour of work. The next day I learned that fallen person was doing well from the beach manager.

This is great, I'm really enjoying it! When's the next part?
 

Oldhippy

Cynical idealist
Look forward to reading it.
 
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aytu_14

aytu_14

Well-Known Member
Location
Turkey
22. Day (Biga-Biga Exit-Biga) (43 km) (Second Part)

After the accident I noticed that he was in front of a place where the sacrifice was made. I dragged the bike to find the owner of the vehicle and went there. After finding the owner of the vehicle and explaining the situation, we returned to the vehicle. There was nothing important in the car. We just put the falling cat eye in place.

I went to the slaughterhouse again to learn how to go to Biga or Bandırma. The sacrifices were slaughtered and meats cooked. Someone invited to me. "Get well soon." said. He heard the incident when I was talking to the owner of the vehicle I had crashed into. Another one came while talking to him. He saw the bike. "Get well soon" said. "Don't worry, there is a cyclist I know in Biga. We can go together in my car. If you're in a hurry, I can take you right away. " he continued. He was waiting for the sacrifice to be slaughtered. I said that I was not in a hurry and thanked him for his attention. While talking about this, a plate of rice and roasting and ayran came on the other. We chatted about my tour. Then the dessert came. I explained what I saw the places I came from. When the conversation got well, they started to joke. "Man, can not be hit by a stationary car!" That's right, but I crash. That is me.

While the conversation continued, the sacrifice slaughter was completed. We loaded the bike and the sacrifices into the car and went back to Biga. Brother called the motorcycle-bike mechanic and said we would come to the shop. He asked if he had a bicycle tongs. It wasn't there, but when we got there, he seriously straightened the tong by bending it with the iron profile. The front brake shoes were also damaged due to the impact. There was no way to fix it before the tong was straightened. Front braking performance had dropped drastically, but at least the bike was walking.

Mehmet, who was so closely interested in me, was a big motorcycle enthusiast. His age was - estimated - around 60. Made motorcycle tours in the Balkans and Turkey. He has also made a small Balkan tour in the recent past again. His wife was from Van and they toured Eastern Anatolia with his wife. His wife's brother was also a big motorcycle enthusiast. He passed away in an accident. This incident affected them badly, but then they prevented it from turning into a fear. They continued. They were not captured by fear. That's the important thing! Continue...

Mehmet, who was so closely interested in me, was a big motorcycle enthusiast. His age was - estimated - around 60. Made motorcycle tours in the Balkans and Turkey. He has also made a small Balkan tour in the recent past again. His wife was from Van and they toured Eastern Anatolia with his wife. His wife's brother was also a big motorcycle enthusiast. He passed away in an accident. This incident affected them badly, but then they prevented it from turning into a fear. They continued. They were not captured by fear. That's the important thing! Continue...

I cannot tell you how much Mehmet insisted on staying at his house that day. I also met his wife. "Fellow countryman, we won't let you go." said. I refuse their proposals because it was a festival of sacrifice. Because their guests would be many. Or they might have to go somewhere. I didn't want to be an obstacle. If it was a normal day, I wouldn't refuse their invitations. I told him that I had a friend here and that it was risky to ride for a long time with this condition of the bicycle and that I would go to Istanbul by night bus. If this accident had not happened to me, I would not have been able to meet such a beautiful person and traveler. This accident opened a new path and I met beautiful people, without even needing to resist going on.

I thanked him and his wife and left them and called Ilyas. He said he was where we sat yesterday with his friends. I said "wait, I'm coming" and went to them.

When I got to them, I told what happened to me about the accident, Mehmet and his family. We closed this issue first with a sadness and then with small jokes.

I found a bus ticket online. It was 2 o'clock at night. Around 12 o'clock I said goodbye to Ilyas again. They left and went to their village. Actually, Ilyas wanted to stay. But the evening had not come with his bike. If he had stayed with me, it would have been a problem for him to go to his village. I forcefully persuaded him to leave.

Who should I see when I go to the bus station? Emre Uçmak, whom I talk in Çanakkale, was also at the bus station. They will go to Istanbul. But our bus times were different. First I told what happened to me. Then he explained what he had done. He told about his experiences. Wedding preparations, marriage process ... There's a lot worse. My accident stays like a fly bite alongside marital stress. Even a fly bite brings pleasure and makes people itch sweetly.

I also met with Emre's wife Birsen and Birsen's mother that day.

A year later, we met again with Emre and his wife Birsen in Burdur Salda Lake during the summer. There is a good story in the camp we did together. Maybe, I will write about this later.

The Emre's bus came first. I sent them off. Then my bus arrived. Since the bus was empty, I put the bike in the trunk as a whole with the items on it.

The bus was in Istanbul in the morning. I've come all the way on the bike. I did not get tired as much as the 3-4 hour bus journey did.

At the bus station, my brother met me. The first thing he said is "What are you like, son!" happened. I was black. I was wearing a white cardigan with its wool on. I was look pretty shabby. After my brother overcame this small confusion, "Well done!" he said.

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We celebrated my tour in a soup shop. Then we went home.

I did this tour wearing sandals. The pattern formed on my foot at the end of the tour became my "tour medal".

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"My tour medal" A magnificent masterpiece ...

During my 22-day journey, I cycling 1505 km. In total, I climbed about 19680 m, descended 20715 m.

This is how I took the first big step of a journey that adds meaning to my life and continues to do so.

After this journey, I lay down on the bed, tired, - even more than tired - happy, peaceful and proud. When I closed my eyes, I could still hear the wind blowing across, the waves in the sea. As I climbed the slope in Marmaris, I was seeing the colored dust particles and the rainbow. After that:

I slept.

I slept.

I slept...

-THE END-



A man travels in the colorful world,

Neither rich nor poor, believer nor non-believer...
(OMAR KHAYYAM)
 
Location
España
That is a very inspirational journal!
Well done and thank you for sharing.
There is so much of the positives of bike touring in there and especially how sometimes the things we don't want to happen can be valuable when they do.

Also, a brave thing to do, to publish on a foreign language forum!

I, for one, hope you'll stick around and contribute in the Touring forum or write up any more adventures.
 

mudsticks

Obviously an Aubergine
Thanks so much for all this @aytu_14

Its a great bit of storytelling, especially not in your native language.

And a great insight into what to expect, if I ever get to go a pedalling in Turkey.

Good luck with your onward travels.

I shall be rereading this a few times I think. :smile:
 
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